another bouncy floor follow-up question

jennifwAugust 25, 2010

Thanks for the responses a few days ago about my bouncy floor that I need to repair from the top down. (from the 2nd floor, not a basement). Quick recap - 1939 cottage home with funky 2nd floor addition from 1990. Floor joists on 2nd floor are actually the 2x6 1st floor ceiling on 16" centers with 13ft span. Would like to reinforce and make less bouncy while we have it all torn up.

Local lumber yard guy recommends putting additional 2x6 in between the existing ones. That would give me 2x6 joists on 8" centers with a maximum span of 13feet. Top that with tongue&groove 4x8 floor decking.

Would you do that instead of sistering the existing joists? Any pros/cons to one way or the other?

Thanks

Jennifer

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macv

Structurally speaking it makes no difference where the added joists are placed assuming the floor sheathing is adequate to span 16".

But pay careful attention to how the new joists are supported and braced. Added joists are often sistered because it is easier to support and brace them. It's a carpenter's option.

The new decking will have only a slight effect on the stiffness of the floor. It is the bottom of the joists that must be reinforced in order to reduce deflection.

I still recommend cutting LVL's to fit at the 15 ft span. If you are going to his much trouble you should spend a little more for stronger members in that area to reduce bounce.

    Bookmark   August 25, 2010 at 5:05PM
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jennifw

Macv - thanks for helping. Can you explain what you mean by reinforcing the bottom of the joists? I don't follow that part.

We are looking at LVLs and sistering 2x6. The problem is the LVLs are only available (here) in 8 or 12 inches. I don't have the headroom upstairs to add the additional height. We are doing a stop-gap until a full remodel next summer.

THanks
Jennifer

    Bookmark   August 25, 2010 at 9:10PM
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sierraeast

You can special order the lvl's equivalent of a 2x6 from most any reputable lumbie that deals with engineered lumber,(most do these days). Problem is that the lvl's will likely run a little taller than a dimensional 2x6 which is nominally 5-1/2". I believe the lvl's will run 5-7/8". Any competent carpenter can scribe them down to the size of your existing 2x6's in fact could do the same with 8" lvl's which come out at a 7-1/2" height.

    Bookmark   August 25, 2010 at 10:06PM
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macv

Who will be doing the work?

    Bookmark   August 26, 2010 at 7:13AM
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jennifw

Framer/carpenter will be doing the work. My neighbor flips houses and the guys on her crew will be doing it. (professional guys, not a home-handyman)

    Bookmark   August 26, 2010 at 7:33AM
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