Bronze Spring V-Strip Weatherstripping

twizzisJune 5, 2013

I bought a 71-year fixer-upper. There's a gap on the right side jam of the front door widening significantly at the bottom. After researching I believe bronze v-strip may be my solution.

My question is size (width). I've found an on-line source here: http://kilianhardware.com/sprinbronwea.html .

I'm clueless as to the width to order. The door is 1 3/4" and the jam is 2 1/2". Should I order the 1 3/4" kit which is the width of the door? Is that how it's done?

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geoffrey_b

The brass strip should be narrower than the door. The only point of contact is where the spring edge meets your door - the rest of the width does nothing.

I don't see the width as critical - except if it's too wide. I think 1 1/4" looks fine. You could always email the folks who sell it.

    Bookmark   June 6, 2013 at 9:39AM
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twizzis

Thanks so much, Geoffrey, that's a wealth of information for a novice and I appreciate it immensely.

I think, just a backup, I'll give them a call, too.

    Bookmark   June 7, 2013 at 10:27PM
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dmansfield

Spring bronze ("SB") (most is made by Hager Co) is a very attractive way to weatherstrip an older door. If the door is true 1-3/4" use the 1-3/4" SP. The extra 1/2" gives you 3/8" of extra "gap" filling.

Killian's is just around the corner from my house, and they are an old school hardware store that will be a great resource.

Just a couple of thoughts if you have never installed SB. You typically nail in a copper tack at 3/4" or 1" intervals. Before getting a Bostich Palm Nailer, I used to nail the SB to a piece of sacrificial lath on a horizontal surface. Putting in 80 tacks in a straight line is a pain when you are working on a door that can move, etc.

You also have to think about how you are going to handle locks / strike plates. Cut the area where the deadbolt and latch have to pass a little long. That way you can go back and fold the metal over to prevent a sharp edge.

    Bookmark   June 8, 2013 at 6:31PM
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twizzis

Okay, dmansfield, got it! That's a coincidence about Killian being so close to you. The door is exactly 1-3/4" wide, so I'll use the 1-3/4" width v-strip.

Just today I was contemplating how to go about maneuvering around the locks and plates. It didn't occur to me that I should take into consideration a 'fold'. That's a great tip and even better is the one about the horizontal pre-tack.

Thanks so much for your time and experience.

    Bookmark   June 8, 2013 at 9:33PM
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sombreuil_mongrel

There are special shapes of the stuff for the mortise lock, but you will be covering the hinges, and removing them from the jambs will be impossible, so make sure they are good and tight, scrape paint off the hinges and edges of the door, or sand down the bumps of paint. The hinge side will hinge bind horribly if it's close to begin with.
I disagree with using 1 3/4" spring on a 1 3/4" door, the big size is for 2 1/4" doors, you always try to go one size down so the brass doesn't show around the closed door.
I use packing to shim out the brass so it contacts the door evenly when necessary. This is thin cardboard and pasteboard Ramboard brand) strips applied in layers.
The thickest grade of this weatherstripping needs to have each nail hole drilled, as you can't drive through it without distorting and bending a lot of nails.
Order a package of the brass nails, the copper plated weatherstripping nails are crap, rust very soon. The brad-setter that is made for this work is also worth the money for the time it saves, if you do this work regularly.
Casey

    Bookmark   June 9, 2013 at 10:40AM
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twizzis

Hi Casey! The gap is on the lock side of the door only, so I won't have to worry about the hinges, just the strike plates. Do I still go one size down?

I can pre-drill, no problems doing that and I can, also, borrow a brad-setter using brass nails.

    Bookmark   June 9, 2013 at 10:10PM
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twizzis

Hi Casey! The gap is on the lock side of the door only, so I won't have to worry about the hinges, just the strike plates. Do I still go one size down?

I can pre-drill, no problems doing that and I can, also, borrow a brad-setter using brass nails.

    Bookmark   June 9, 2013 at 10:11PM
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sombreuil_mongrel

Hi,
The link is to the lock strip piece for bridging a mortised door lock; it applies to the stop/frame corner.
Scroll to item 22H
Casey

Here is a link that might be useful: accurate page

    Bookmark   June 10, 2013 at 12:32AM
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geoffrey_b

For all the work involved - it may be cheaper to get a new insulated door and door frame.

    Bookmark   June 10, 2013 at 12:42PM
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twizzis

Thanks, Casey, I think I see how this works and believe I can do it with my dad's help.

You're right about that, Geoffrey, but I've got other issues with the door. It's 2" higher than a standard door and it's got side lights, in addition. To complicate it further, the previous owner stuccoed the face of the house. I was told that a new installation may cause some damage there. I had a mill company give me a price to replace with a whole new set-up for 4K. On the other hand, Home Depot, not having an exact match to the opening, would have to build the door out and warned that it may not "look right". The French door (with side lights) is original to the house and has a cute presence...just a pain, though.

I'm at a point where I'm thinking it's worth the time and effort of the v-strip.

    Bookmark   June 10, 2013 at 7:31PM
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