So, integrated toekick or adjustable feet?

EAM44May 14, 2013

For any of you DIY-ing your kitchen cabinet install, can you tell me what works best? To the uninitiated (like moi) adjustable feet seem to be the way to go, no shimming, but Ikea cabs come with these and people seem to divided on whether they love or hate them. I can order my cabs with an integrated toekick or without.

Any feedback would be appreciated. Thanks.

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We DIY'd our cabinet installation using cabs with integrated toekicks. See the one little shim under the corner of the pantry? There were some more shims over towards the corner. Some inconsiderate construction worker turned the crown on a single stud the wrong way when the house was built 40 years ago. We had to shim out from the wall quite a bit to get cabinet runs straight. Shimming the lowers to be perfectly level for the granite was the easiest thing going.

Shimming the uppers for level and straight line was another issue altogether!

If I were you, I wouldn't use toekicks vs. feet as a criteria for choosing or rejecting any particular cabinetry.

    Bookmark   May 14, 2013 at 11:17AM
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I DIYed my cabinet installation, and I used the adjustable leg levelers. I found them quite easy to use, and I had to do a fair amount of leveling. I have no experience with shimming of conventional cab with an integrated toekick, however, so cannot really compare them

    Bookmark   May 14, 2013 at 2:00PM
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Sounds like it'll be fine either way. I am partial to the adjustable leg idea. suzannesl - the wall cabs sound like a pain. Good for you for getting around it.

    Bookmark   May 14, 2013 at 3:56PM
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I got my RTA cabinets through Scherr's and got the leg levelers they offer. With them I was able to to make the cabinet tops pretty much dead-flat. The longest segment of cabinets were over ten feet long, and the granite installer said over that length if there were more than 1/8" out of flat he'd have to shim the low spots before install, or there would be too much stress on the granite. He measured and there was about 1/16" from one end to the other.

    Bookmark   May 14, 2013 at 4:21PM
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We used the leg levelers but on the front of the cabinets only. Along the wall, we nailed a 2x4 ledger--make sure it's level--to carry the back of the base cabinets. Makes for a super easy, easy to level install since only the fronts of the cabinets had to be adjusted. The leg levelers make it so easy.

    Bookmark   May 14, 2013 at 8:52PM
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We did the same thing as ci lantro. Worked great!

    Bookmark   May 14, 2013 at 9:16PM
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We used Ikea cabinets with their adjustable legs, and they were super easy. I have a fairly non-level floor and was very pleased at how straightforward it was.

    Bookmark   May 15, 2013 at 12:31AM
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We just finished Barker cabs with toekick. We have more than 1" of drop as the run goes around the two walls of the kitchen. While we did manage to get them level with shims, it took a lot of time and a lot of different sizes of shims. We didn't use the wedges, we wanted hardwood under them, but did use the wedges behind some of them on the wall. Bottom line, toe kicks were doable but in the back of my mind, those IKEA legs kept popping up. One thing to consider though, if your walls aren't vertical (quite likely) then you'll still need to shim behind then when you screw then to the wall or they won't be level front to back.

    Bookmark   May 15, 2013 at 8:28AM
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Lucas has a house like ours. I'm glad I had an excellent installer for my cabinets because we had over an inch issue on the floors in places and I don't think any of our walls are level. So I'd vote for the adjustable legs if I were re-doing my kitchen. If you can determine how level your floors/walls are it might make the decision easier.

    Bookmark   May 15, 2013 at 9:01AM
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