Anatomy of the Barker Kitchen- Now only 25% Naked
Well, the cabs are no longer 1/2 naked, they have hardware but no trim, so less kitchen porn. In response to requests for more details, here is some additional info. Please remember I'm no pro at this and had never done RTA cabs before, so I'm certainly not suggesting everything we did is perfect or should be duplicated by others, but it seems to be working well for us.
Question was, are they truly full extension? Answer, absolutely yes. However, for any drawer the length of the drawer is determine by the depth of the glides, not the depth of the cab. Somewhere on the Barker website is the info about the depth of drawer vs. depth of cab. In other words, don't order a 48" deep cab and expect a 48" deep drawer.
BTW, the stuff in my kitchen is only kinda sorta temporarily stuffed in drawers, cabs, etc. so pay no mind to the man behind the curtain.
Fillers-I'll show some of the fillers in place but basically they are just "L" shaped with the front facing side being whatever width you order and the other leg being (I think) a standard 6" or something. Chad could tell you how deep they are. They don't need to extend any further back, the only purpose of the side leg of the "L" is to give you something to screw to the adjoining cab
Here's the top view of a yet to be installed 2" filler
Side view, the side on the wall is the side that would normally be attached to the cab
Trim-It might be a while before we get around to that so I took some quick shots of it uninstalled. It's cheaper in the long lengths so I have it all lying on the floor in a spare room right now
It might be hard to visualize this but the top of the photo is the shaker crown molding propped up on the straight molding that serves as its base. There is another unrelated picece of wood on the floor behind them so ignore the one that's not part of the close up.
The bottom of this shot shows the UCL trim as it would appear from the front. The upper piece is looking at the inside of the trim, it's an "L" just like the filler but 2" on either leg and again the second leg is to give a nailing surface so you have a way to attach it to the cab
Installation-We used 2" fillers everywhere a cab run hits a wall. We purposely flipped some things around so we have NO corner cabs (yippee!) but have several wall ends. Here is an example of the 2" filler next to a wall cab and a base cab. Barker also makes some small scribe trim that we're going to add afterwards to make those look at tad more finished. We were pretty lucky in that our walls are fairly straight, so we did not scribe the fillers to match the walls, the fillers are straight. YMMV. BTW, even with 2" of filler the doors can still hit the walls, so plan on bumpers or something else to deal with that if end at a wall.
End Panels-We elected to use panels on both sides of the MW and range. Those weren't 100% required but we didn't want to worry about some piece of an unfinished side sticking out next to the MW or range. And of course we used a finished end on the one run of uppers we have that doesn't end at a wall. There was a pic of that in the previous thread. Here are close ups of one side of the range and MW showing the panels in place, then the full effect:
DW Cab-as discussed in the prior thread, we used the DW cab. YMMV on that as well. We have an angled sink but elected to use a standard sink cab with straight sides. Our previous cabs were site built and the sink cab and surrounding cabs had angled walls but it's not really useful space and doesn't support the use of drawers or pullouts, so we elected to leave those pie shaped pieces as lost space under the counters. As a result, we used two fillers to bridge the gap between the angled sink cab and the straight cab runs. We would have had no cab on the right (DW) side to attach the filler to without the DW cab. Plus using the DW was gave us a top surface besides the couner top to which the DW is secured and gave us 3/4" of space between the DW door and the drawers. Had we not used the cab, the DW doors and the drawers next to it would have been extremely close. Plus it gave us a consistent look with the other appliances and the way we surrounded them.
Right side sink, fillers and DW
Left side of DW and drawers to its right. The vertical piece of wood there is the right side of the DW cab, not the left side of the base cab.
Frig surround-next to the frig are an upper and 30" deep base cab. We did not make the upper deeper as we wanted more counter space here. We elected not to use fillers between the cabs and the frig, so next to the cabs is the tall 3/4" panel (slab), then the over frig cab, then another tall panel but this one is the door equivalent (in my case San Francisco). Once we get the frig moved back we'll add a little bit of trim to the bottom of the cab to make the frig look a little more built-in. These are 30" deep panels so the frig will sit out about 3" to allow the doors to open. We did not try to recess it or anything like that, there is a stair case behind it blah blah blah. I was just thrilled to get it out of the corner so the doors will open, I wasn't concerned about it poking out from the wall. We were a little concerned about it being that close the entryway but we moved it there temporarily for a while before the demo and decided it was fine.
Base cab (wow, looking at the preview those handles look really crooked but it's an optical illusion)
Hope this is helpful. Probably won't have much more to report for a while. Moving on to getting eighty gazillion miles of baseboard, door frame, etc painted and reinstalled.