Anatomy of the Barker Kitchen- Now only 25% Naked

lucas_tx_gwMay 21, 2013

Well, the cabs are no longer 1/2 naked, they have hardware but no trim, so less kitchen porn. In response to requests for more details, here is some additional info. Please remember I'm no pro at this and had never done RTA cabs before, so I'm certainly not suggesting everything we did is perfect or should be duplicated by others, but it seems to be working well for us.

Drawers:
Question was, are they truly full extension? Answer, absolutely yes. However, for any drawer the length of the drawer is determine by the depth of the glides, not the depth of the cab. Somewhere on the Barker website is the info about the depth of drawer vs. depth of cab. In other words, don't order a 48" deep cab and expect a 48" deep drawer.

BTW, the stuff in my kitchen is only kinda sorta temporarily stuffed in drawers, cabs, etc. so pay no mind to the man behind the curtain.

Fillers-I'll show some of the fillers in place but basically they are just "L" shaped with the front facing side being whatever width you order and the other leg being (I think) a standard 6" or something. Chad could tell you how deep they are. They don't need to extend any further back, the only purpose of the side leg of the "L" is to give you something to screw to the adjoining cab

Here's the top view of a yet to be installed 2" filler

Side view, the side on the wall is the side that would normally be attached to the cab

Trim-It might be a while before we get around to that so I took some quick shots of it uninstalled. It's cheaper in the long lengths so I have it all lying on the floor in a spare room right now

It might be hard to visualize this but the top of the photo is the shaker crown molding propped up on the straight molding that serves as its base. There is another unrelated picece of wood on the floor behind them so ignore the one that's not part of the close up.

UCL Trim
The bottom of this shot shows the UCL trim as it would appear from the front. The upper piece is looking at the inside of the trim, it's an "L" just like the filler but 2" on either leg and again the second leg is to give a nailing surface so you have a way to attach it to the cab

Installation-We used 2" fillers everywhere a cab run hits a wall. We purposely flipped some things around so we have NO corner cabs (yippee!) but have several wall ends. Here is an example of the 2" filler next to a wall cab and a base cab. Barker also makes some small scribe trim that we're going to add afterwards to make those look at tad more finished. We were pretty lucky in that our walls are fairly straight, so we did not scribe the fillers to match the walls, the fillers are straight. YMMV. BTW, even with 2" of filler the doors can still hit the walls, so plan on bumpers or something else to deal with that if end at a wall.

End Panels-We elected to use panels on both sides of the MW and range. Those weren't 100% required but we didn't want to worry about some piece of an unfinished side sticking out next to the MW or range. And of course we used a finished end on the one run of uppers we have that doesn't end at a wall. There was a pic of that in the previous thread. Here are close ups of one side of the range and MW showing the panels in place, then the full effect:


DW Cab-as discussed in the prior thread, we used the DW cab. YMMV on that as well. We have an angled sink but elected to use a standard sink cab with straight sides. Our previous cabs were site built and the sink cab and surrounding cabs had angled walls but it's not really useful space and doesn't support the use of drawers or pullouts, so we elected to leave those pie shaped pieces as lost space under the counters. As a result, we used two fillers to bridge the gap between the angled sink cab and the straight cab runs. We would have had no cab on the right (DW) side to attach the filler to without the DW cab. Plus using the DW was gave us a top surface besides the couner top to which the DW is secured and gave us 3/4" of space between the DW door and the drawers. Had we not used the cab, the DW doors and the drawers next to it would have been extremely close. Plus it gave us a consistent look with the other appliances and the way we surrounded them.

Right side sink, fillers and DW

Left side of DW and drawers to its right. The vertical piece of wood there is the right side of the DW cab, not the left side of the base cab.

Full effect

Frig surround-next to the frig are an upper and 30" deep base cab. We did not make the upper deeper as we wanted more counter space here. We elected not to use fillers between the cabs and the frig, so next to the cabs is the tall 3/4" panel (slab), then the over frig cab, then another tall panel but this one is the door equivalent (in my case San Francisco). Once we get the frig moved back we'll add a little bit of trim to the bottom of the cab to make the frig look a little more built-in. These are 30" deep panels so the frig will sit out about 3" to allow the doors to open. We did not try to recess it or anything like that, there is a stair case behind it blah blah blah. I was just thrilled to get it out of the corner so the doors will open, I wasn't concerned about it poking out from the wall. We were a little concerned about it being that close the entryway but we moved it there temporarily for a while before the demo and decided it was fine.

Base cab (wow, looking at the preview those handles look really crooked but it's an optical illusion)

Frig cab

Hope this is helpful. Probably won't have much more to report for a while. Moving on to getting eighty gazillion miles of baseboard, door frame, etc painted and reinstalled.

Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
berner43

Thanks for posting, it looks beautiful. It's very helpful to see how you put things in and made them work for you. Good luck on all of the trim!

    Bookmark   May 21, 2013 at 7:45AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
karlsmom

You've probably already mentioned this, but what cabinet pulls are you using?

    Bookmark   May 21, 2013 at 9:10AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
lucas_tx_gw

Interesting about the pulls. I'd looked and looked and wanted something 'unique' but all the really cool pulls I liked were in the $30-100 range. And I wanted one that came in more than one size. So I just couldn't find what I wanted and DH didn't like any of my more interesting ones anyway.

So one day, he comes trotting home from HD with these two sizes of Liberty bow pulls in his hands and says "can we just get these?" And I said, but they're so BORING. And he (interior decorator that he is) said "Look here, they match the appliance pulls just perfectly, and they're affordable."

So we compromised on being sure they are standard size, so if I ever tire of them and want something more fun they can be easily replaced. Like that's every going to happen :-)

So he went back, got what we needed and put them on. I don't even know off hand what model they are or what but they are satin nickel, Liberty bow pulls 3.5" and 5" I think.

    Bookmark   May 21, 2013 at 12:34PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
lucas_tx_gw

Found the package for the pulls, they are Liberty "Enchanted"

This post was edited by lucas_tx on Sat, May 25, 13 at 9:11

    Bookmark   May 25, 2013 at 9:03AM
Sign Up to comment
More Discussions
Backsplash advice for my grey & white kitchen
My husband and I have finally settled in one place...
al_cabone
Viatera Minuet
Hello! I am about to start a kitchen remodel and I'm...
cburky
Help, my new white lacquer cabinets are peeling!
Hello, We reno'd our kitchen 1.5 years ago and installed...
cece1213
Under cabinet mixer shelf
Does anyone have a built-in under cabinet mixer shelf...
ryseryse_2004
Would this open shelf look OK between the wall oven and range hood?
I need a quick decision made so DH can carry on with...
laughablemoments
People viewed this after searching for:
© 2015 Houzz Inc. Houzz® The new way to design your home™