Leaking below grade pipe sleeve penetrations

perelMarch 16, 2011

This is a masonry wall, 2' below grade. Heavy clay soil and the drainage patterns are such that I can't prevent a LOT of water up against the exterior wall below grade. I've done all I can to reduce the water presence there, it's still saturated when it rains hard. With the exception of these pipe penetrations, the wall actually holds up pretty well. The interior and exterior drain tile work, too, it's just that the clay is SO heavy that water sits in the top couple feet. Believe me, I've done everything I can to address the water/drainage patterns..

So, there are two 2" conduits, one electric buried at 24" and one spare for voice/data 6" above it. These are new lines to a detached garage. I would much prefer to bring it in below grade and not have to have large LBs or junction boxes on the side of the house - but thinking that may be a better option.

The actual wall penetrations are the sleeves for the conduits, not the conduits themselves. Contractor who installed this line originally didn't do a good job of sealing it, it leaked bad, so I tore it out and redid it including proper sleeving. (I had to tear a lot of Great Stuff type foam out too along with the original job. Also note that this was already inspected/approved, so I am now performing a repair and not a new installation. In my area that does change the rules to be only Existing Building Code rather than new construction code, in case it matters.. heck they wouldn't even make me use the sleeves but everything I've read says that is best practice so I was doing it.)

Right now I don't have the conduit in the sleeves - the sleeving is regular Schedule 40 PVC DWV pipe and it is plugged with test plugs so I know no water is coming in from inside the sleeves.

The wall is CMU, parged exterior. I ran the sleeves through the previous hole knocked in the block, set in place with hydraulic cement making sure to have cement on all sides - no direct pipe-on-CMU contact. It ought to be bedded in pretty well. But when very wet (effectively standing water) the pipe seals still leaked. I then applied Henry 209 elastomeric membrane, which Henry lists for repairs to below grade waterproofing membranes. It cut down on the leaks some but water is still getting in.

So, what should I do?

* Remove the sleeves entirely, hydraulic cement patch the entire area, and bring the conduits in all above grade.

* Fill the CMU voids with concrete

* Embed the sleeves in concrete, which would keep standing water in the clay from flowing as heavily on the penetrations

* Something else?

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littleman77

Have you considered using a DIY polyurethane injection kit? It injects a closed-cell plastic foam that expands to fill the void between your sleeve and the block wall, making a water-tight seal. They're typically used for non-structural basement wall cracks, but I think they might also suit your application.

If you need better penetration or more strength, an epoxy injection kit might be the way to go.

Here is a link that might be useful: Emecole DIY Pipe Seal Kit

    Bookmark   March 17, 2011 at 10:37AM
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