Cutting continuous bias binding
Maybe this won't be new to you guys but in instructions I always see them say to measure every width and draw a cutting line before the tube is finished. I don't have the time or the patience for that.
Here's my way:
I cut the first width 5 " or 8" conventionally and line the edges up to sew my tube. I stitch it together and press the diagonal seam open Then I slip the tube over a cutting mat.
I can use my ruler and rotary cutter to cut now just as though it were yardage. I much prefer this myself -- especially on a dark fabric like this that would be a pain to mark a ton of cutting lines.
One cuts made so I flip the mat over and cut on the other side of the mat. No grid but who cares when my ruler gives me all the information I need.
I am careful to cut from one edge all the way to the other edge. The depth of the mat protects my table cloth (I would NEVER do this on a tablecloth but my family set up trains on the dining room table after T-day so what's a girl to do but be careful?!)
That leaves a tiny spot intact. Snip. So much for that!
The bias cut rolls off as I flip the mat and repeat. I roll it up every second cut to keep it off the floor. An empty packing tape core does a good job of keeping it unwrinkled. A small foamcore board would too but there's no fold on the round core.
Flip, cut, repeat. Flip, cut, repeat. Then yards and yards of continuous binding ready to go on a quilt.
Remnants can get used on small projects or sewn together for a quilt with a really scrappy look. And I always make sure I have a generous amount when I buy the yardage. Having extra cut binding on hand sure beats rushing back to the store and finding out they've sold the rest of the bolt. =o
This is the binding for a quilt that will be about 40" X 50". For a larger quilt I put the mat on my ironing board and rotate the loose fabric around it instead of flipping the mat.