Basement Water Seepage

justin_mJanuary 6, 2010

I have an unfinished portion of my basement with one wall which is towards the front of my townhome. I have cement (or Cinder?) block walls, no sump pump, and have a small gap between the wall and the floor slab. The block wall is entirely below grade. The gutters are not leaking and push water out to the road 20 feet in front of the house. The outside grade is level at worst, but it cannot be easily regraded due to the front porch entirely covering this area.

I noticed mold growth and efflorescence flaking the existing paint on the walls. I scrapped the mold off the wall (w/ goggles, mask and gloves) and paint chips pulled off by the efflorescence (some paint I could not remove with any paint strippers). I than applied basement latex waterproofing paint (Primer 1-2-3). This ended up possibly making the flaky paint/efflorescence situation worse a few months after application. There is an existing drilled hole in the wall about 2 feet in height from the floor slab (the problem did exist above it as well). No water visably drains from this hole giving reason for me to believe that the water level within the concrete block is NO higher than 2 feet, but I am having a humidity exchange. Some cool air blows through the hole that was drilled for the incoming water pipe (about 6 feet high).

I have since scrapped the wall again as best as I can, with most paint still giving me problems with the latex paint stripper solution. The paint which had the problems came off rather easily.

I bought a bucket of DryLock (but I have not opened it yet), concrete filler (for the holes), and etching solution. I have read that this may solve the problem.

I have also read conflicting reports that I can or cannot apply over existing paint (even if it is as stubborn as mine).

My question is "How do I best deal with the solution?"

If I seal with DryLock, will this at least delay the problem 5 years+?

I do not have the money for a sump pump install (which is freq pressure sold to desprite people) - so I want a good solution not to cost me in excess of $500.

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ron6519

Painting any substance on the interior wall will not keep the water out for long.
Contact the Drilock people to find out about the paint compatibility.
You shouldn't have water "in" the block wall. You should remove any if you do.
Ron

    Bookmark   January 10, 2010 at 12:37PM
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justin_m

No liquid water in block:
"There is an existing drilled hole in the wall about 2 feet in height from the floor slab (the problem did exist above it as well). No water visibly drains from this hole giving reason for me to believe that the water level within the concrete block is NO higher than 2 feet, but I am having a humidity exchange. "
Most of my problem seems to be with efflorescence pealing my paint. However, much of the wall no efflorescence is visible and the paint is extremely difficult to remove.

Has anyone had a similar experience in their basement? How did you handle it? How did it turn out? Thanks. I am taking my time pealing as much of the paint off as I can when time allows before considering applying the DryLock at this point.

I will contact Drylock and ask them if I can use it over most the wall (the stubborn paint).

    Bookmark   January 12, 2010 at 8:57PM
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tjburke

I just came across your post. I have to ask, do you have a septic tank? on what wall is your waste pipe? You may have a leak from that source causing water to come back in. Good luck

    Bookmark   March 25, 2011 at 2:04PM
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