Craftsman 1/2 HP Garage Door Opener - Only one works!

mrandrewJanuary 27, 2005

Hi Everyone,

I have a Craftsman 1/2HP Garage Door Opener Model 139.53681B

(with a RED button). The batteries for on of the remotes died so i replaced it. When i reprogramed the remote, i can only get one to work no matter what i try.

I tired unplugging the GDO, reseting the codes, no matter what, i can only get one to work at a time. Mind you both have been working together for the last 5 years. When i changed the battery now only one works. I've been desperatly searching the web for an answer to my problem.

Does anyknow know how to get both remotes working again? I read the other posts and it seems like the member GDS knows what he's talking about. Do you have any ideas?

Thank you so much!


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I had the same thing happen to me in the last couple days for a Craftsman GDO that I installed in 1997.

Everything had been working perfect until I replaced the battery in one of my remotes. Now I can only get one or the other to work, but not both together. It's funny, because I recall replacing a battery in one of the remotes a couple years ago and had no difficulties.

I also have a wireless keypad entry on the outside of the garage and a homelink transmitter in my vehicle. I am able to program both of those in addition to one remote, but not two remotes. Hope someone has an answer.

    Bookmark   January 27, 2005 at 10:13AM
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Rolling code means that everytime the remote sends a signal to the garage door opener, it sends a different signal. That way, the bad guys can't scan the fequency range and get your particular frequency because they don't know what the next code is going to be. (a simplified explanation) However, your remote and your garage door opener both know whats going to be next.
For some strange reason, a remote will loose its ability to roll the code. If your motor unit is set up to use rolling code with all the other remotes that you have, it will see the defective one as a black sheep and won't allow it access.
I think both of you have a defective remote. Go to Sears and buy a new remote, or if you have a friend who has a newer Sears machine, borrow theirs and program it, and see if it works.

John, you say that everything works except one remote. Thats the bad one.

    Bookmark   January 27, 2005 at 11:29AM
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I understand what you say, but the fact is that I can program either of the remotes and either one will work fine. The issue is that once I program one of the remotes, the other will not program. And visa versa. I have seen this problem on other threads and it seems to have a common theme of starting after a battery is changed in one of the remotes.

I cleared the codes and started from scratch several times, programming a different remote each time. Again, the remote programmed first worked fine, no matter which remote. When I go to program the second remote, the receiver does not recognize the second remote, no matter which one I use.

Given that, I don't think it would be a problem with one of the remotes.

Another thing, if I program the wireless keypad first, than niether of the remotes will accept programming. If I program one of the remotes first, then I can program the wireless keypad.

I am perplexed.

    Bookmark   January 27, 2005 at 12:15PM
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Please accept the fact that GDS knows what he is talking about. Secondly you are never programming a remote unit. You are programming the receiver to accept the signal from the remote. Go to the smart button on the back of your motor unit and hold it in for about 10 seconds. This will erase the memory of the logic board and none of your remote units will work. Now program one of the hand units and then program the keypad. If they both work the other hand unit is the culprit. If the hand unit doesn't work after programming the keypad, that one is the culprit. Be sure to take the model number off the back of the motor unit when you go to purchase a replacement hand unit.

    Bookmark   January 27, 2005 at 6:59PM
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Thanks for the info, but as I said, I can program either of the remotes to work, just not together. Let's call them remote 1 and remote 2:

-First, I clear all codes and program the receiver first to recognize remote 1.
-Remote 1 works fine.
-But when I continue to program the receiver to recognize remote 2, I cannot get remote 2 to work.

Okay, you would think that means remote 2 is bad...but:
-now I clear the codes again.
-This time I program the receiver to recognize remote 2 first.
-Remote 2 now works fine,
-when I continue and attempt to program the receiver to also recognize remote 1, it won't reconize remote 1.

So if one of them is bad, which one?

And since I am able to continue and program the wireless keypad and my homelink receiver in my car, I believe that I am properly executing the process for programming the device.

The above leads me to believe that the receiver is the problem rather than the remotes.

Based on what I've read, you and GDS certainly know what you're talking about, but I don't think I was clear in explaining the issue.

Any advice would be appreciated.

    Bookmark   January 31, 2005 at 2:56PM
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Sometimes Don and I talk in different terms because we deal with this stuff all day long, every day. We may not explain things so that it's easy to understand, so let me take another stab at it.
Lets assume that all your transmitters are the latest, rolling code. (because they are, you have the red button)They include the two remotes and the outside digital keypad. But, for some strange reason, one of your remotes has lost the ability to roll it's code, and reverts back to the old billion code system. It's still transmitting, but its not transmitting like it should. Lets call that one, "The Bad One"
Start by wipeing out the memory of all transmitters from the motor unit. Now, program the keypad, and it works fine. Now, program a hand held remote, and it works fine. But you cant program the second hand held remote (the Bad One), because it's not transmitting in rolling code like the other two are, and the computer says, "NOPE, not going to accept you cause your not rolling code."

Now, lets try a different senario. You start with all the memory cleared from the motor unit. The first remote you try to program is the "Bad One" It will program just fine! The Logic board is saying "Were going to operate on billion code are we? OK, fine, everything from here on must be billion code." So then you try to program your other remote, (which is rolling) and it won't program.
So as you can see, the Logic board will accept either billion code or rolling code, but not both together.
Thats why you can program one or the other, but not both.

The chances of a hand held remote and the digital keypad going bad at the same time are doubtfull.
Find whichever hand held remote works with the keypad, and thats the one you keep. The other one is the Bad One, get rid of it and buy a new one.

I hope this helps.

    Bookmark   January 31, 2005 at 10:57PM
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That makes sense now. I will try this and let you know how it worked.


    Bookmark   February 2, 2005 at 9:12AM
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GDS and Don-

I am having a somewhat similar problem. I as well have a 1/2 HP Craftsman GDO..1996 edition. I am not able to program either remote or the outside key pad. They were working perfectly two days ago and now nothing works with the exception of the base unit on the wall. I have tried clearing the codes and reprogramming several times with no luck. The process I go thru each time is as follows:
1. Press and hold the green button on the side of the unit until the green light goes out.
2. Press the green botton on the unit. Press and hold the large bottom on the hand held unit..and wait for the lights to flash.
Am I doing something wrong..I have tried the same process with both hand held remotes with the same results as well as the ouside key pad.
Any advice?

    Bookmark   February 5, 2005 at 7:34PM
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Look up to a posting by ReidJ and read that answer. Seems you might have the same problem

    Bookmark   February 6, 2005 at 7:53PM
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A solution for some situations, along the lines of what GDS wrote above. I just installed my brand-new Craftsman GDO this weekend. My two remotes included in the package worked (at the same time). I could not program my nifty brand new compact third, which I bought separately. When I erased the codes (by holding the learn button for 6 secs), I could get the third to work, but the first two would not work. C'mon! Everything's brand-new!

The problem -- the first two clickers use a different technology than the third clicker. The first two (139.53681) are Security+, which GDO says is the newer technology. The third (139.53859) is the old "Smart" or "Billion" (not sure which is the official term). My receiver apparently can "learn" either one by itself, but will not learn both at the same time, just like GDO described.

My user manual lists 139.53681 and 139.53680 as Security+ remotes. Looking on the web, I found that 139.53879 and 139.53859 are "Smart" remotes. The Smart remotes look similar (identical?) to the Security+ packages, so you really have to be careful when you buy them.

And GDS, wow, a Security+ can turn into a Smart one when the batteries die, huh? Crazy. Doesn't sound too Smart to me. Well, from what you describe, it sounds like the $40 solution is to buy another Security+ remote, program *it* first, and then try to program your remaining remotes, and toss out the ones that don't program (or give them to friends who have the Smart system). (Any idea what's really wrong? A fried chip or erased register?) And perhaps, the $25 alternative solution is to find a compatible remote instead of the $40 Craftsman.

Anyway, perhaps I'm saying nothing new. Previously, I had an older Craftsman with remotes that used Dumb technology. I had no idea that there were multiple transmitter technologies from the same manufacturer. Hopefully this will help someone.

    Bookmark   February 8, 2005 at 3:41AM
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Hello Rustic, GDS, and everyone with the SRT remote issues;

I too have had the same, perplexing, confusing, hair-pulling, cross-eyed experiences regarding the Security+ remotes. I've reviewed the many threads here as well as regarding the same problems, and have emailed's support (received an automated, very descriptive, reply within a few minutes - some of the text is below) and I'm left with more knowledge and no fix for my problem.

I purchased the 139.53674SRT2 in August, 1999. It came with 2 remotes and a keyless entry pad. I purchased a third remote at the same time that I bought the opener. I ensured compatibility by reading the package information and locating the GDO's model number.

Until last week (when I decided to change batteries in the remotes and keypad for preventative maintenance), both remotes and the keypad have been working fine. The third, "backup", remote had been in a drawer inside the house and was working (tested it) prior to the battery change.

After the battery change NONE of the remotes worked. Since it had been a while when I last programmed these remotes, I had to find my instructions again. I followed the instructions on the back of my opener with limited success. Instructions on the back of the opener are:

1- Press and HOLD transmitter push button.
2- Press receiver code button.
3- When opener light flashes, release both buttons.

I say limited because 2 of the 4 remotes (I consider the keyless entry as a remote) will be programmed successfully. During the process above, when I programmed a remote, or pair of remotes, successfully and tried another, I would inadvertently reset all codes. This happened because during step 2, I would hold the receiver code button waiting for the opener light to flash and the amount of time passing would eventually reset the code.

Frustrated, I dug through my files until I located the owner's manual for the opener. The instructions were a bit clearer:

1- Press and HOLD the selected remote control push button.
2- Then press and RELEASE the SRT (learn) button on the back panel of the opener. The indicator light on the panel will begin to blink and the opener light will flash once.
3- Release the remote push button.

Upon following these instructions I noticed, after resetting the codes (pressing, and holding, the SRT button until the adjacent LED went out - approx. 6 seconds), the LED associated with the SRT button would flicker when any button on any remote was depressed (as well as when a 4-digit number followed by "enter" on the keypad of the keyless entry system). This indicated to me that all 4 remotes were transmitting at least.

I followed the instructions from the owner's manual and could successfully program one pair of remotes (pair-A, keyless and one car remote). The other pair (pair B, 2 each car remotes) of remotes could not be programmed. After resetting the codes, I could successfully program pair-B and could not add pair-A. I tried numerous times without success. I then emailed Sears.

Here's some interesting information from the automated reply:

"Remote Compatibility

Gray button remotes and blue button remotes are not compatible with each other. Once you program one, the second one will kick out the first when you program it. The solution is to ensure all of your remotes are the same style.

If all of your remotes are the same style, try resetting all remotes by pressing the 'SRT' button on the back of the opener for 12 to 15 seconds. Then go through the programming procedures for the remotes (and keyless entry if you have one). The opener has multiple memory slots on the logic board. Each time you program a remote, one of these slots saves the remotes frequency.

If all of the slots are full, when you program a remote, it overwrites the last slot. Then when you try to program a second remote, there are no free slots and it overwrites the remote you just programmed. When you hold the 'SRT' button for 12 to 15 seconds, it erases the frequencies saved in these slots."

First interesting statement - "Gray button remotes and blue button remotes are not compatible with each other."

All my "car" remotes are blue buttoned. GDS - could this be the distinguishing feature between the "billion code" and the "rolling code" styles?

Second interesting statement - " The opener has multiple memory slots . . . "

Made sense to me. I tried the resetting procedure outlined in the discussion - no luck. I even tried holding it in for 20, 30, 40, 120 seconds. I tried holding it in for a while, unplugging the opener while depressing the SRT button. I tried doing the same thing again, but this time plugging in the opener while depressing the SRT button. Anything to reset the memory slots (I wonder if my "chain" was getting jerked).

I searched the internet once again for any additional clues to my quandary. Someone posted an interesting statement regarding the addition of a computer in close proximity to the garage. The possibility existed with RF interference. I've got an 802.11b wireless router installed (added in early 2004) and I thought this could be a possibility. I powered everything down, removed power from the devices, went through my "programming ritual" (I tried ALL programming scenarios), and now I'm sharing my tribulations with all who care to read them - still no success!

I've ruled out the "billion code" vs. "rolling code" cause, GDS, because I HOPE Sears included 2 compatible "car" remotes along with my keyless entry remote in the same packaging with my GDO (same box housed the opener and remotes). As I stated earlier, I can get on pair of remotes programmed and cannot add the other pair. It doesn't matter what order they are added. After resetting the codes, ALL remotes transmit as indicated by the flickering LED adjacent to the SRT button, BUT once a remote is "learned" by the opener, I can only add the remote that's remaining in the pair.

Thanks for bearing with my dissertation.

    Bookmark   February 8, 2005 at 12:32PM
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I think the answer is up above, posted by GDS on Jan 31. The answer sounds magical, but he wrote:

>But, for some strange reason, one of your remotes has
>lost the ability to roll its code, and reverts back to
>the old billion code system. It's still transmitting, but
>it's not transmitting like it should.

I take that to mean your Security+ remote, which was working great out-of-the-box, has morphed into a "billion"/"Smart" remote after your battery change. Something must have been zapped, or reconfigured at least. It sounds like that's what has happened to a few people here, either by a battery change or a lightning strike. As I understand it, you need to buy a new Security+ remote.

(Or, if you were daring and had money to gamble, you could replace the batteries of all the remotes to try to create a complete set of "billion"/"Smart" remotes, and then they would all work with your opener. And if it doesn't work the first time, then try again in a more clumsy fashion. GDS, am I reading your post correctly?)

Now if I could turn a Mac into a PC by swapping the power supply, that would be cool...

    Bookmark   February 8, 2005 at 2:19PM
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I wanted to find out how Security+ works. I found a page in which the Security+ guys (Chamberlain) were suing another company for violating patent and copyright laws. Although it's not going to make your two remotes work, it makes for interesting reading, and it does explain the technology in some detail.

I always wondered: if it's a "rolling code", then what happens if I push the transmitter button while I'm at the grocery store? Will I then be out of sync?

Well, according to the write-up (the link is below), the receiver remembers the last 1,024 codes entered and will not open/close the door if it receives one of them -- that's the part that keeps theives from capturing your codes. It also knows what the next 4,096 codes should be. So as long as you don't let your kids push the button every minute during your 3 week vacation, it should work when you come back home. (Although your battery will probably be dead, and you may get caught in the replace-battery-and-morph-Security+-into-"billion" problem.)

It's neat. Part of the code transmitted is unique to the particular remote and does not change. That way, you can have multiple remotes, and it knows which rolling code set you have. (Think of it like the username, and the rolling code is like a password.)

This also explains a statement in my manual that I didn't understand. I don't have it front of me, but it said something to effect of, "Thou shalt not use other technology other than Security+." The Security+ folks were kinda upset that someone found a way to circumvent it. (Don't worry -- only the owner can circumvent it. Your neighbors' kids can't.)

I went to Sears today to return my "billion" remote. I found out the "billion" remote has *grey* buttons, while the Security+ has *blue* buttons. Well, now I know.

Also, the "billion" boasts 3.5 billion combinations, while the Security+ boasts 10 billion. For whatever it's worth.

Here is a link that might be useful: FindLaw -- how Security+ works

    Bookmark   February 8, 2005 at 5:08PM
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Thanks for the information about the court battle. The amount of programming involved with this technology is amazing for the era of this product release.

Do you guys have any information supporting the possibility of the Security+ remotes (I have 3 of the "Blue" buttoned car remotes) reverting back to the "billion code" system? I've searched and cannot turn up anything.

I'll be going to Sears today to purchase another remote. If it works with the pair of remotes that includes the keyless entry, I'll keep it and my sanity. If it works with the other pair, I'll return the remote and replace the opener with another.

    Bookmark   February 9, 2005 at 10:26AM
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Hi mgilland,

I don't know of a manufacturer-approved way to revert to the "billion" system. Apparently if you keep re-installing the remote's batteries you might eventually turn it into a "billion" remote, per GDS.

I just bought another Security+ remote yesterday -- Liftmaster 970LM, I believe. I added it to the system with no problems. Just over half the price of Craftsman. Maybe this would be a better alternative for you?


    Bookmark   February 10, 2005 at 1:54PM
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There is no, known way to make a rolling code revert back to the billion code system, at least not that their telling us. And I don't beleive that re-installing the batteries will do it either. I personally believe that either installing the batteries in the wrong way or static discharge while touching the board inside the remote can possibly cause this problem.

Sears remotes are usually a medium grey with blue buttons which are rolling code, and if the remote has light grey buttons, its billion code.

If you have a Sears Security+ garage door opener, then any Security+ remote will work with it. You can buy these at Sears, any Chamberlain Security+ remote from HD, or as you said, a Liftmaster remote. They are all made by the same company, Chamberlain.

    Bookmark   February 10, 2005 at 8:22PM
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Thanks for the input guys. I've got another remote (Sears) and it's working with the keyless and other remote so all is well now.

Rather than take the proactive step and replace batteries prior to failure, I'll take the reactive methodology and wait 'til the CR2032's "give up the ghost" (manual states they should last up to 5 years of normal use). This way I won't risk the "code reversal syndrome" my other 2 remotes seemed to have suffered.

Thoughts on possible causes for this case of CRS (code reversal syndrome):

Being a technician (Chief Engineer, 24 years broadcast engineering), I'm very familiar with static sensitive devices. I, by habit, take more precautions than the average homeowner when opening any electronic device for service. It's possible, highly unlikely but possible, static discharge could be the culprit (if so, I experienced a 50% failure rate - 2 pairs of devices functioning on different code "schemas" - damaging to my career). I wasn't wearing my static discharge bracelet or using ESD safe tools (instructions in the manual demonstrate using the visor clip to pry the remote transmitter apart). I didn't notice any precautionary statements regarding the presence of static sensitive components.

Backward battery installation - out of the question - I'm 99.9999% sure of proper battery orientation.

There was no recent electrical storm activity in my area within the last couple of months. Puzzling indeed!

I'm still searching for information supporting the possibility of the Security+ remotes reverting back to the "billion code" system. If you have any sources I would appreciate the insight.

Best Regards

    Bookmark   February 10, 2005 at 11:46PM
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Just to let all you folks know, After reading GDS response to me on January 31st, I went out and bought another Security+ remote from Sears and everything now works fine. I would never have guessed that the Security+ remote can revert back to the billion-code technology, but it appears that is exactly what happened. Now I will know when it happens to my other older remote.

Based on the numerous inquiries on this and other BB services, it seems that Chamberlain would or should be aware of this problem and engineer a solution. My bet is a lot of people end up calling for an uneccessary service call because they do not realize that a remote can change it's basic functionality.

    Bookmark   February 14, 2005 at 10:06AM
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Hello everyone! I recently moved into a residence that has a craftsman opener model 139.53674srt2 and i am not sure what code the previous owner had programmed into the wireless keypad. Can anyone give instruction on how to reset the keypad or point me in the direction. Thanks in advance.

    Bookmark   February 15, 2005 at 10:39AM
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On the rear of your motor unit you will find a button near where all those white wires go. Press and immediately release this button and then walk over to your keypad and enter a 4 digit number of your choice and press enter. You should be good to go.

    Bookmark   February 15, 2005 at 11:01AM
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I appreciate the quick response. I did try your suggestion; pressed the red button right below the white wires, went to the keypad typed 1234 enter, and the pad began blinking like 5 times, but no movement from garage door. Did i do something wrong. Your help is very much appreciated.

    Bookmark   February 18, 2005 at 10:00AM
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I believe I have solved the problem of programming more than one it lucky or whatever, but it worked for me and it has nothing to do with rolling codes etc.

In the instructions it says to "momentarily press the learn button" in lies the problem.......the definition of "momentarily".

I discovered through numerous trial & error attempts that if I held the " learn " button for even as long as one full second, my problem returned.... I could only program one unit. I now redefine the word "momentarily" as a fraction of a second. If I just basically "poked" at the learn button and then programmed as per the instructions, I managed to successfully program all 4 remotes + the door jam unit.

Forget the BS about the requirement to hold for at least 6 secs or longer to erase the codes.If I held the learn button for any longer than a fraction of a second it was erasing all previous codes for the other units.

Two other hints I learned through numerous phone calls to help lines etc that the instructions fail to address..

1) the door should be in the closed position to be programmed.
2) if you are having problems with the door unit......physically take the unit off the wall and hold it close to the learn button to program it just like you do with the car units.

Hoping this saves you the hours of frustration it took me to learn it.


    Bookmark   May 17, 2005 at 11:01AM
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JayDee53 you might want to e-mail this information to the manufacturer. I'm sure the engineers would appreciate your knowledge.

    Bookmark   May 17, 2005 at 1:42PM
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I have 2 Craftsman 1/2 HP door openers for my 2 car garage. We had a lightening storm that blew out 2 TVs. At the same time one door opener stopped working while the other side is fine. The sensors on the non-working side do not work but the green lights are on. Also on the non-working side in the motor unit where the red button is the yellow light flashes in sequences of 5. The only action I get from the wall unit opener and the car remote is the 75 w lightbulb will goes on. I get no action at all from the outside wireless remote unit. Everything works fine on the working side. This unit is 5-6 years old and came with the house. No directions are found. I believe the key is with the 5 pulse flashing light in the non working side. I have pressed the red button a few times with no results. Can you tell me how to stop the flashing or fix what's required? Thanks, remcc2121

    Bookmark   July 1, 2005 at 4:22PM
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If the openers are the same model I would exchange logic boards and see if the problem follows the board. Lightning strikes can be as fickle as women.

    Bookmark   July 1, 2005 at 6:07PM
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I have no instruction manual. What is a logic board and where do I find it.? What about the flashing yellow bulb (sequences of 5) in the non working motor unit? What does the flashing mean? Please advise.

    Bookmark   July 2, 2005 at 2:46PM
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GDS or anyone, I have an older Craftsman 139.53615SR 1/2 hp GDO. About 9 mos ago or so, I noticed some decreased remote range. I replaced the batteries with no luck. I have 2 Craftsman 139.53778 3 button remotes, a remote keypad and a Homelink transmitter in my van. I have tried everything from lengthening the antenna wire ( although 7.5 inches that was on there is the optimum antenna length for a 1/4 wave antenna at 390 MHz). Sometimes my remote won't even work in the garage under the unit. I just finished taking the thing apart to look for broken solder joint or anything else abnormal. Nothing was out of place that I could see. The only thing I have not done is gotten a spectrum analyzer in here to see if there is a transmitter in the area that might be jamming the 390MHz band. Any thoughts? I have reprogrammed all remotes, tried different codes (which shouldn't affect it). Help? I can't believe the unit has just gotten old and doesn't work anymore!

    Bookmark   July 3, 2005 at 4:15PM
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A few more questions? Could old age cause the receiver frequency to wander such that the remote and the receiver aren't syncing? I can test a transmitter but how could I test this receiver? Any thoughts.

    Bookmark   July 3, 2005 at 6:09PM
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Yes, the frequency can wander slightly with age. A perfect example of this is the Linear Delta Three receiver which is used as an external receiver on many garage door openers. It's designed to only work with a Linear remote. Once it becomes about 2-3 years old, you can then use a standard Stanley remote on it because the frequency degrades over time. Normally you couldn't do that.
All garage door openers tend to loose a bit of distance ability over a period of time however if it doesn't work while your in the garage with the remote, then thats really bad.
There is a major problem with the Military and garage door opener frequencys. The frequency that most garage door openers use, is actually reserved for the Military. Up until lately, they have not used that frequency. Within the last 2-3 years, they are now developing many uses for that frequency and it's driving homeowners batty because the remotes are rendered useless. Most garage door opener manufacturers are scrambling to change their frequency back to one they used many years ago and this means re-tooling all their logic boards and remotes. It's a big friggin mess.
I ran into a problem like yours a few months ago. Older Sears machine, remote wouldnt work if you walked more than 2 feet away from the garage door. I changed the logic board for one of our used ones that I know worked perfectly, used one of our remotes that also worked perfectly, and still the symptoms were the same. You still had to be real close to the door. It drove me nuts.
Finally, after much chatting with the customer, I found out that he had a new computer router which enables him to use more than one computer in the home. It works by sending a signal to a receiver on the other computer. It was in the bedroom directly above the garage. I had him unplug it and bingo, garage door opener works perfectly.

I wish I had an answer for you but I don't, other than it's not the remotes. They wouldn't all go bad at the same time.
Its the receiver built into the logic board thats most likely gone bad.
Take the logic board into your local Garage Door company and see if they have a used board in stock. Most companys save old boards for situations just like yours. For ten bucks, you may be back in business.
Spending any more is not economically feasable. If that doesn't work, buy an entirely new garage door opener.

    Bookmark   July 3, 2005 at 11:10PM
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In reply to remc2121, regarding 5 flashing lights. That indicates bad RPM (logic board) or an overheated motor. Try unplugging, and plugging back in. If that is no good, your RPM board is probably fried from the lightning.

    Bookmark   July 5, 2005 at 12:30PM
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My problem is similar but not I think different. I have one older Craftsman GDO and 1 newer Security+ GDO in my 2 car garage. I have a older remote for one and a brand new remote (blue button) for the Security+. With both units on, it appears my range for the newer unit is about 8 feet - outside of the garage the remote works every so often - maybe 1 in 10 times. Now the strange(r) part - when I unplug the old unit altogether, the new unit works fine. So, there is some bad interaction between the old (1995 vintage) and the new Security+ unit when operating side by side.

Any ideas?


    Bookmark   July 6, 2005 at 9:04AM
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Thats a very strange symptom.
Did you install the wall switch that came with the security plus machine, or did you re-use the existing wall switch?

This is a shot in the dark, but try it, what the heck.
Take a long extension chord and plug it into the old GDO and plug the male end into a receptacle thats well inside the house, not in the garage. Make sure it's not on the same circuit. See if they act any different.

    Bookmark   July 6, 2005 at 9:54PM
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I have a problem with an old Chamberlain Opener 700WHC.
The issues are similar to what some of the experts here have commented on, so I hope this is a good place to get an answer.

At the moment I am able to make it open with the transmitter built into my Honda, but want it to open with the transmitter in a different car.

The orriginal hand held transmitter broke 10 years ago. It was a Sears transmitter with dip switches in it. The online pdf file for the 700WHC says the opener is factory set for specific dip switch settings in the remote so any new remote must copy those settings. 10 years ago I bought a new 3-button Sears hand held remote and got it to work. I forget how. 2 years ago, I got a Honda and got its transmitter to work with the 700WHC. Again, I forget how.

Now I have another car with a programmable transmitter that I'm failing to get to work. I've gone through multiple versions of programming the car and/or programming the 700WHC. But can't get anything but the Honda to work.

I found a 3 button Sears remote in a drawer, probably the same one, but I'm not sure. No dip switches are visible under the battery cover. I can't get it apart further than that. I don't know if there are inaccesable dip switches.

In programming attempts, I have several times deprogrammed the 700WHC so even the Honda can't open it. Then I have successfully reprogrammed it for control by the Honda as follows:

1) Quick press on the 700WHC learning button (indicator goes on).

2) Several long (a few seconds each) presses on the Honda transmitter button (with just a tiny release between). After about 30 seconds of that the door opens and recloses if it worked. When that has failed a couple times I restarted from step 1 and it worked.

3) The 700WHC then works with the Honda through multiple attempts to program the 2'nd car but with continued attempts deprograms at some point.

I tried the same process with both the 2'nd car and the hand held. On occasion in step 2 the door would open and reclose, just as it did when programming the 700WHC for the Honda had worked. But then the remote couldn't open the door again. I never got more than one open per programming attempt.

I tried using both the hand held remote and the Honda to program the 2'nd car's transmitter. Those instructions say to press and hold both buttons (hand held and car) until the car's indicator light turns off then comes back flashing fast. That worked easily with the hand held, but did no good (as you'd expect because the hand held itself does no good). Pressing and holding both cars' buttons together causes them both to go off at the same time and not come back flashing. So I tried press and hold the 2'nd car button, while I pressed, then momentarily released, then pressed and held the Honda's button, so the 2'nd car's indicator went off and came back flashing while the Honda was still transmitting. That seemed to indicate the 2'nd car learned the signal from the Honda. But it still wouldn't work.

With another garage door opener button on the same second car and with a different (newer) garage door opener on our other garage door, I found that I couldn't initially program the opener to accept the signal from the car, and after programming the car to match the hand held signal that worked the opener, the car still didn't work the opener, BUT then I once again programmed the opener to the car and it finally worked. So it seemed like they each had to learn some part of the signal.

But with the 700WHC, even after I programmed the second car from the Honda's signal, I still couldn't program the 700WHC to accept that car.

I've tried every sequence I can think of, including making sure the 700WHC is deprogrammed (Honda no longer controls it) then trying to program it with the 2'nd car first.

    Bookmark   August 8, 2005 at 2:56PM
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I think you are trying to program a car with Homelink. Go to this web site for the proper instructions.

By the way, 700WHC is not a number anyone will recognize. The model number looks something like this: 139.xxxxx

    Bookmark   August 8, 2005 at 5:39PM
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The GDO is Chamberlain model 700WHC. If there is a Sears model number for it, I don't know it.

The Sears 3-button remote (that doesn't operate the GDO now) is 139.53779

A couple years ago I had a working Sears 3-button remote for the Chamberlain GDO. I can't remember any reason I ever had another Sears 3-button remote, but given the weird behavior, I think the 139.53779 might not be the right remote.

Anyway, I got the 2'nd car programmed and working.

While searching for something else this evening I happened upon the original Chamberlain remote (750CB) that I had forgotten about. It was a lemon from the beginning and I had replaced it with a Sears one-button remote that broke and I replaced that with the 3-button remote that might be the 139.53779

If you wiggle the battery and shake the remote while pressing the button, the 750CB sometime comes on and transmits its signal (and stays on without further shaking as long as the button is pressed). After all these years that signal still operates the GDO (with battery borrowed from the 139.53779) and trained the Homelink in the 2'nd car (you were right about that) so now it's all working.

    Bookmark   August 8, 2005 at 11:17PM
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I have a sears Model no 139.53535srt. I was reprogramming a remove and now have to program the keyless entry. It is not working.The keyless entry is model 139.53859. Anyone have the programming for this. Sears would not speak to me unless it was under warranty. They were willing to send someone out.


    Bookmark   September 10, 2005 at 4:17PM
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Press and immediately release the button on the back of the motor unit. Walk over to your keypad and key in any 4 digit code of your choice and press enter. Should do the trick.

    Bookmark   September 10, 2005 at 5:26PM
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Whenever I try to close my garage door, whether from the remote control or from the mounted panel, the garage door starts to close then abruptly stops and reverses to stay open. The reaction is similar to when an object activate the motion sensors but there's nothing obstructing the sensors. I have tried everything to correct this. I tried resetting the box, etc but nothing seems to work. Can you help? This is a MasterCraft horsepower garage door opener.

    Bookmark   September 26, 2005 at 10:46AM
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Master Craft is the trade mark name of products sold by "Canadian Tire" (Canada only) The electric opener is actually a GENIE.
Don, can you take it from there?

    Bookmark   September 26, 2005 at 11:13PM
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The only thing I can think of is the sensors are not properly aligned or one has quit working. I would also check the wiring for breaks.

    Bookmark   September 28, 2005 at 2:55PM
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My sensors are aligned, with the green LED lights shining brightly. I have a Model 139.536xxSRT3 that is 8 years old. I even cleaned the lenses on the sensors, and the door still only goes down about an inch or two, then pops back up with the light blinking about 10x. If I hold the control button in continuously, the door will close. Strangely, this is not a constant problem. There are times when it does work. Maybe it's time for new sensors???

    Bookmark   October 1, 2005 at 12:34PM
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You are describing the symptom when the sensors are ever so slightly out of alignment. The one with the light that goes out when something is in front of it is the receiving unit. Check it closely to make sure the light is not flickering ever so slightly. You will probably have to get down on the floor to see this. This will cause the intermittent problem you describe. Tweak them so that the flickering stops.

    Bookmark   October 3, 2005 at 12:37PM
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I have a Craftsman 1/2 HP garage door opener model 139.53645 SRT2 and yesterday, for no apparent reason, the one-button wall (wired) wall unit would no longer work.
The green light on the back of the logic board has started flashing a 3 blink code...although I don't have an instruction manual for any of this system (it was in the house when I bought it) so I'm hoping someone out there will be able to tell me what it means.

The two remotes still work fine. I've check the wires leading to the wall unit and they both look OK.

Advice is much appreciated.

    Bookmark   October 12, 2005 at 1:45PM
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That "3 blink code" says your wall control is shorted. If it is the 3 button control you will have to replace it with the same type to keep its features - if it is the one button type you can use a door bell button available at any hardware store.

    Bookmark   October 12, 2005 at 3:06PM
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I have craftsman garage door door opner, 139.18778, HBW1D3469. I have the lost the code on this and i do not have any maual to rest this. Also can not find anything with local sears store. Is there a way to reset this and enter the new code. I can open the door from inside the garage. The red light on remote is working but looks like since the got changed it's not coommunicating with main unit . Please help.........Thanks

    Bookmark   October 17, 2005 at 12:57AM
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Get up on a step ladder to the back of the motor unit where all those small white wires go into it. If you find 10 white, slide switches, then set the switches in the remote so they are set identical to the switches on the motor unit. If you don't find switches, you will find a small, rubbery feeling button. It may be yellow, gray, green or red. Push in and release it, (do not hold it) then push and hold the button on your remote for 2 seconds. If this works, the light bulb on the motor unit should flash which is telling you that it has been accepted.
Your remote should now work.

    Bookmark   October 17, 2005 at 11:54PM
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Hi, I am in a desperate situation and hoping someone can help. I own a Craftsman 1/2 HP Model 139.53963SRT1 unit on a single garage door. We can't access our garage any other way e.g. from our house except the garage door itself. Since yesterday the remote we keep inside the house and the keypad outside the garage won't open the garage door. Short of cutting a hole in the drywall of our house to access the garage, any advice on getting the door to open? Changing the batteries to the remote and the keypad hasn't solved the problem.

I don't know if this has anything to do with the sudden failure of our remote to work but on Sunday, my husband programmed my new car's remote system to open the door, I pulled the car in the garage, used the hard wired remote to close the garage, and now can't open the door with the remote or the keypad. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Also our remotes and keypads have been fickle in opening the door for the past month i.e. sometimes the remote would work on the first try, and sometimes they would work after several tries. changing the batteries didn't solve the problem. But this is the firs time the door hasn't opened after many, many attempts with the remote. Thank you!!!!

    Bookmark   October 18, 2005 at 1:55PM
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tickle, you have the worst of all situations. You need to call a door opener repair company and explain your situation. They can drill a hole in your door, use a stiff wire with a hook to catch the emergency release and open your door. Then they need to repair the problem with your door opener and install a mechanical release in the hole they drilled in the door. This will not be a cheap repair but is necessary. Even if you cut a hole in the drywall of your home you will need to take the steps I have outlined to prevent this same thing again.

    Bookmark   October 18, 2005 at 5:31PM
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Just a thought. Can you break a window and get to the emergency handle yourself? Depending on the style of garage door, a single pane of glass might be less expensive and easy to repair. However, as Don said this won't solve the problem in the future.

Don: out of curiosity how can you "secure" a door like this? Won't your emergency release be an unsecured metod of opening the door?

    Bookmark   October 18, 2005 at 6:07PM
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sdello, I think tickle is describing what we call a "vault garage" which has no opening other than the garage door itself. What I am recommending is made just for this situation. It is a cable that attaches to the 'emergency release' and is then attached to a keyed release that is installed in the opening in the door. The security is the key.

    Bookmark   October 18, 2005 at 6:47PM
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Thanks, Don and sdello for your responses. True we have a vault garage with no glass in the garage door itself. Don, your idea of drilling a hole in the door gave my husband the idea of drilling a hole and snaking something through it to hit the hard wired button which lies just inside the garage entrance on the wall. That did the trick. Now, we are going to have one of the emergency release things installed so in case power goes out, we can always get in the garage and to our car. Thanks again for your responses!!

    Bookmark   October 18, 2005 at 10:10PM
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Don: I was thinking that the garage door itself might have some lites in it. Guess not.

thanks, a keyed release makes sense.

    Bookmark   October 19, 2005 at 12:48PM
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I have an older Sears Craftsman 1/2 HP garage door opener. I bought an outside keypad and am having trouble programming the car openers and the keypad to work at the same time. I can get one or the other to work, but not both.

    Bookmark   October 19, 2005 at 4:34PM
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You most probably got the wrong keypad. Take the model number off the back of the opener - looks like 139.xxxxxSRTx. Take that to your Sears store and they will get you the right one. Hope you didn't buy from E-Bay.

    Bookmark   October 19, 2005 at 8:06PM
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I'm somewhat relieved that I'm not the only one having inexplicable opener issues. I have 2door openers, both using the same Chamberlain openers, and the same LiftMaster Security+ remotes. Both worked fine until recently, when they both stopped working. Wall keypad works fine though. I replaced the batteries - nothing. Reset the codes and reprogrammed - nothing. I called support and spent 2 hours troubleshooting. They determined I had 2 bad circuit boards. I replaced one of them and got a remote to work, but it only works when I hold it right up to the antenna. Warranty is up in 1 month, so I'm going to try and get them to send me 2 new remotes. If that doesn't work, then I have no idea what I'm going to do.

    Bookmark   October 24, 2005 at 5:45PM
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Good Luck. There is no one that knows their product better than the technical support group of the manufacturer. They are a class act company and will bend over backwards for their customers in most circumstances. I'm a little surprised that you would post your problem under Craftsman.

    Bookmark   October 24, 2005 at 6:38PM
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I have read all the problems and I am having the same problems. This is what I have found out. My remote problem started when I bought a new car which has the homelink controller in the visor. I decided to program the homelink and was not successful. After my attempts to program the homelink my remote stopped openning the garage door. I replaced the battery thinking it was about time. opener was new in 99. new battery didn't do the job. I pulled out my manual for the opener learned how to push the red button and clear all the remotes. I then was able to reprogram my remote to work. I was also able to program the homelink to work. the next day i found out that my keyless pad wasn't opening the door. I was able to to clear everything again and i was able to get the keyless pad to open the door but not the remote or the homelink. I found your forum and got some n=more ideas. I went and got my second remote. this is what i found when i got the opener working with the keyless pad my second remote would also open up the door. when i reprogramed it to the the first remote neither the second one or the keyless pad would work. so I assumed that the first remote went bad. several days later i decided to try to program the homelink again using the second remote at work well away from my house. I had no sucess and gave up. later when i came home the remote opened the door and i thought i didn't press it hard enough to close the door since when I got out of the car it was still open. I used the door pad to close it. the next mornining the second remote wouldn't work any more. my keyuless pad still works but none of my remotes. I think that the homelink somehow swithced my remotes to the billion code system because all my problems started after i tried too program the homelink. is it possible to swith the keylees pad to the billion system then everything would work together?

    Bookmark   November 8, 2005 at 12:35PM
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It's pretty confusing. I would get everything together and do it this way.

Hold the button in to clear all the remotes.
Program Remote #1.
Program Remote #2 and check that #1 is still working.
Program the Keypad and check that #1 and #2 are still working.
Program your homelink and check that #1, #2 and keypad are still working.

You should eliminate the culprit. I don't think your homelink switched your remotes to the billion code system. I think there is a component failure in one of the remotes that causes this but have never heard this from the manufacturer.

    Bookmark   November 8, 2005 at 1:36PM
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I am having a similar problem to an earlier thread. In short, my opener (Craftsman 1/2 hp) worked fine this morning but not thios afternoon. We did not have any electrical problems that I am aware of. Now, whenever any button is pushed you can hear a click on the logic board, but nothing else happens...except, the yellow light blinks 5 times. The answer to this was...

Posted by: bstarlin (My Page) on Tue, Jul 5, 05 at 12:30

In reply to remc2121, regarding 5 flashing lights. That indicates bad RPM (logic board) or an overheated motor. Try unplugging, and plugging back in. If that is no good, your RPM board is probably fried...

So, I guess my board is fried. I purchased this unit in 2000. Is it worth purchasing and changing the logic board or should I buy a new unit? Could it also be the motor?

    Bookmark   November 9, 2005 at 10:56PM
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I recently purchased a house with a 139.53636SRT 1/2 HP opener with two 139.53779 remote openers and a keypad at the garage door. The previous owners did not leave me the code to open the door with the keypad. Is there any way to reset it?

Thanks for you help.

    Bookmark   November 11, 2005 at 10:56PM
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I too had the problem with only one remote working when three had previously worked fine on the same system (two car remotes plus one wall mounted pad). Since I am an engineer and try to never give up without understanding the problem, I did a web search and found this forum. Very helpful info! I would like to say for the record that I was able to conclusively prove that one of my Security+ remotes (blue button) did in fact change to where it now only works like a "Billion Code" remote (gray button). Here is how I proved it to myself.

For background info, I actually have two Sears garage door openers to open my double and single bay doors on a three car garage. One purchased in 1997 came with two blue button Security+ remotes and a Security+ keypad. I just verified via model numbers on the Sears website that the keypad is in fact Security+. My second garage door opener was purchased in 2002 and interestingly enough it came with only one gray button "Billion Code" remote.

To troubleshoot the remote problem, I reset the codes on the original Security+ system by holding in the receiver button for 6+ seconds per the instructions. At this point, I tested all four remotes (two "Blue Button" Security+ remotes, the Security+ keypad, and Gray Button Billion Code remote) by depressing the open key while monitoring the LED on the receiver panel. Before any of the remotes were saved into the system, depressing the key on any of them would cause the LED on the receiver to flash rapidly. While it was flashing rapidly, I could hit the red button and it would be programmed into the system and work fine.

If a Security+ remote was saved to the system first, depressing the open key on the other three remotes would only flash the LED if the remote was sending a Security+ signal. This allowed me to identify the "bad" blue button remote that had changed to the "Billion Code" mode. I was able to make the two Security+ remotes (the "good" blue button remote and the wall pad) work together fine. I cleared all the codes and programmed the gray button billion code remote first. Then the good Security+ remotes would not light the LED, but the "bad" blue button remote would. I repeated this several times programming the matched pairs of Security+ and Billion Code remotes and the system worked fine with either set.

In my case, I got lucky and found an acceptable way to operate my system without replacing the remote. I found that my newer opener that came with the billion code remote would work just fine with the Security+ remotes. Therefore I programmed the gray button remote and the "bad" blue button remote on the double garage door so two cars could open this door. I programmed my one good Security+ car remote and the wall pad to open the single garage door. In our case, we really didn't care which door the wall pad opened, so this worked out great.

By the way, I could not validate the claim above that using a quick press of the button "momentarily" was the root of my problem. In fact, I proved it was not by showing that the receiver ignored a Security+ signal (no LED flash) if a Billion Code remote was programmed first and vice versa. This was done without even pressing the red receiver button after the first remote was programmed.

Thanks for all the information!

    Bookmark   November 13, 2005 at 10:27PM
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markb2k on the rear of your motor unit near where all those white wires go you will find a button. Press and immediately release this and walk over to your keypad and enter any 4 digit number of your choice and then press enter. Should get you going.

    Bookmark   November 14, 2005 at 5:49PM
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Worked perfectly- Thanks for the help.

    Bookmark   November 14, 2005 at 9:30PM
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Hello ~

I have a Craftsman 1/2 hp GDO purchased in Aug. '96. About a week ago during a thunderstorm I heard a loud snap as if something had been hit by lightning. My house has been hit 4 times by lightning so I've learned to unplug everything when I know a storm is coming so the GDO was unplugged at the time.

The next morning I plugged the unit back in to leave for work. Garage door opened fine but wouldn't close. Ah-ha, I said to myself, that's what got hit last night.

After inspecting the unit I determined that the receiving sensor was no longer working properly (light was not on). I ordered new sensors and installed them yesterday.

Everything was working properly and all seemed fine and dandy until I went out a few hours later and saw the light flashing on the new receiving sensor - garage door would not close.

Messed around with it a bit more and got it working again. But alas, about 15 minutes later the light was once again flickering on the new receiving sensor and the garage door would not close, lights on the unit flash, etc.

This has been going on for two days now and I am completely stumped. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't!!! Could the lightning have done something to the unit even though it seems to work fine with the wall control? The garage door will close as long as I hold the button down on the wall control. It will also close as long as the light is lit on the new sensor. But that stupid light will soon start to flicker and eventually go out.

Did I get a faulty set of new sensors or am I SOL? I know this is long but any help would be much appreciated!

    Bookmark   November 22, 2005 at 8:19PM
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Is it only the receiving unit that is flashing? Is the light on steady on the sending unit?
When you get hit by lightning, it can affect everything that is electronic, not just the photo eyes, so it could very well be a glitch in the Logic Board in the motor unit.
If the eyes are not perfectly aligned, the receiving eye will flicker very fast, almost a pulsing, which sometimes can be misconstrued as a solid green.
I doubt the sensors are faulty, I've never had an out of box failure of photo eyes.

    Bookmark   November 23, 2005 at 9:39PM
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Greetings: This could be a duplicate post, and if so, I greatly apologize.

What might the reason be that the yellow LED "learn indicator light" has begun blinking on my Craftsman 139.53985 opener? There seems to be no particular pattern to the blinking. The opener seems to function well, and the unit seems to be communicating well with both the remote control, as well as the keypad. In other words, all's well except for the blinking "learn indicator light". I have a comparable unit in another garage, and have not experienced the blinking light on it, which tells me there might be some type of immenent problem on the horizon. Any insight would be most appreciated.

    Bookmark   November 28, 2005 at 12:19AM
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That blinking light you see is normal. Any spurious radio signal can cause that light to blink but it will do nothing else. It must be the proper frequency with the proper code to operate the door. If you watch your other opener you will find it too blinks. There are several factors that can cause one to do so more than the other.

    Bookmark   November 28, 2005 at 12:03PM
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I have a Model No. 139.53535SRT1 or 139.53644SRT or 139.53647SRT1. The Multi-Function Keyless Entry 139.53876 started working irregularly - needed to enter the code in more than once and press the keys hard for door to open. I changed the battery, but still does not work. I tried unsuccessfully to reprogram with the receiver; now one of the remotes 139.53879 does not work either.... Would sincerely appreciate any help. Thank you.

    Bookmark   December 1, 2005 at 9:04PM
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I have a 10 year old liftmaster with a keyless entry pad that recently just stopped working. I used the learn function to get it re-working, but then my old remote would not work.
I have tried several times...I can get either the the wireless pad OR my old remote to work, but not both. Everytime, I program one, it wipes out the other.
I have tried the 6 second, memory wipe out process. It does appear to wipe it out, as nothing works after holding the learn button for 6 seconds. But, as soon as I relearn either my old remote or the rke, one wipes out the other functionality
any idea what the problem could be?
Thank You

    Bookmark   December 20, 2005 at 8:27PM
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I'm having the EXACT same problem. I can program only one transmitter or the other, but NOT both. Has anyone figured it out yet? Please Help!

    Bookmark   December 29, 2005 at 11:21PM
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Exact same problem here, too. Ordered new Security + keypad; programmed it; neither of remotes works...Any thoughts, Don or anyone????

    Bookmark   December 30, 2005 at 12:56PM
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There are a couple technologies here. One is the older billion code technology and the other is the rolling code technology. Unfortunately the new rolling code sometimes reverts to the billion code technology. This is what causes one remote to work and the other not. And vice versa when you program the other. The only way out of this trap is to buy another remote and trash the one that no longer works with it.

mugnaini I think your remotes must not be Security +. Can you program the remotes?

    Bookmark   December 30, 2005 at 7:12PM
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My GDO opens fine from the wireless remotes and the touchpad, but it will only close from the touchpad. The remotes will not close the door. I have gone through the book numerous times and nothing solves the problem. I am beginning to think there is a hardware problem.

Has anyone had this problem and found the solution.

    Bookmark   January 19, 2006 at 12:57AM
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inks, I am going to assume you are calling your wall control a touchpad. If you have to hold the button in until the door is closed then you have a problem with the sensors in the doorway. Make sure they are pointed at one another and that the small light on each one is on and not flickering. If I have assumed wrong let me know.

    Bookmark   January 20, 2006 at 7:35PM
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Hi all.. I'll try again to get a reply... I have a Craftsman door opener model #139.53646SRT1. The other day, I opened the door with my homelink unit and entered my garage. I tried to close the door using the wall mounted hard wired unit. The light went on and the motor hummed twice, but no movement. I tried with my remotes and my homelink, all with the same result. The green led on the back of the motor unit blinks 5x then pauses, blinks 5x, pauses, etc... My sensors are properly aligned (solid LED on both). I have no owners manual, as the unit was installed already when i bought my home.

I'm hoping there is a simple fix for this vs. the need to buy new.

Don? GDS? You guys seem to have a wealth of knowledge on this subject. I appreciate any input you may have for me.


    Bookmark   January 23, 2006 at 9:28AM
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If your door is stuck in the open position the trolley is probably jammed against the bolt right in front of the motor unit. Remove the bolt and then adjust the 'up limit' about 4 turns in the opposite direction of the arrow printed on the side of the case. The 'up limit' is on the side of the unit and takes a small screwdriver. Be sure to replace the bolt.

    Bookmark   January 23, 2006 at 11:46AM
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Hi Don... Not sure if your latest reply is referencing my problem.. If so, I am able to open and close the door using the manual over-ride, so I don't know if that bolt plays into this? When I return home, I'll give it a shot, though.

Much obliged!

    Bookmark   January 23, 2006 at 12:05PM
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BINGO!! The bolt you mentioned was jammed under the trolley, and I had to cut it out with a Dremel tool. I adjusted the up limit and replaced the bolt.. The GDO works again. that's VERY much for the useful info.. It saved me aggravation and a costly service call.

    Bookmark   January 24, 2006 at 8:55AM
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I have lost my remote and can't open my garage door from the outside....there is no entry to the garage from the house unfortunately. The previous owner left a 4 number code on the "house file" so if I buy a replacement remote can I program it without access to the "learn" button on the door opener.

    Bookmark   January 27, 2006 at 12:54AM
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It now appears that the 4 digit code mentioned in the above post is for a key pad which I have now located - but it didnt accept the code....the keypad seemd to flash light pulses whatever that means - the battery which I took out showed from the "tongue test" that it is charged enough to produce a tingle...
I have banged a hole into the garage wall from the basement so I can squeeze through to the garage - cheaper to repair that than get a repair man around to fix the dooropener I would think.
Having gained entry to the garage I still couldnt find the remote inside the garage where I thought I might have put it down absentmindedly.....
Now if I can buy a remote MAYBE it will work with the "learn" button....

    Bookmark   January 27, 2006 at 9:06AM
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Before you go out and buy a remote why don't you try programming that keypad? Press and immediately release the "learn" button on the motor unit and then walk over and key in any 4 digit number of your choice and press enter. If this doesn't work you probably have a bad logic board and a new remote won't help you. If you had left your original remote in the garage as you at first thought, how would you have gotten out of the garage or closed the door?

    Bookmark   January 27, 2006 at 6:39PM
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don, I usually leave my remote in the house (so it won't get lost) and close the door by reaching in around the doorpost and pushing the lighted button. I had the remote in my pocket on this occasion as it was so cold outside I didnt want to leave the garage doors open while I had a lengthy search for something in a bunch of storage boxes....
I have now realized about the keypad - which it turns out the the prior owner clearly didnt know about either.

    Bookmark   January 29, 2006 at 11:59AM
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I have the same opener from 1997. Suddenly this week the motor turns on when activated, but the chain is not moving, so the door doesn't open. What could be the problem?

    Bookmark   February 1, 2006 at 11:23AM
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Remove the cover of your opener and look at the front of your motor. I'm sure you will find the remains of a white plastic gear that is stripped. It will need replacing. The part number is 41A2817.

    Bookmark   February 1, 2006 at 2:53PM
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I have just been through the same set of nightmares as all of you who changed a battery on one remote, just to find that it screws everything up. Well JayDee53 on Tue, May 17, 05 was quite correct, in stating that you should just MOMENTARILY touch the learning button on the main unit.

This is the story of how I completely broke, then fixed the system:

Having changed the battery on one remote, I rendered that remote plus the key entry pad inoperable. I tried all the permutations listed in this forum plus the manual and succeeded in getting to a point where NO remotes or keypad worked. Picking up on JayDee's point, I set about doing all of the following actions - which eventually got everything working again, without buying any new remotes:

1. Changed batteries in all of the remotes simultaneously, but avoided pressing any button on those remotes subsequently.

2. Turned off power to the main garage unit for around 30 secs.

3. MOMENTARILY (i.e. a fraction of a second) press the learn button on the main unit and let it go. THEN press and hold the large blue button on one of the remotes until the main light flashes (solonoid clicks at same time).

4. Do exactly the same for the other remotes. Be careful to only press that main unit button momentarily each time. Holding it longer will erase/reset all the previous stored codes.

5. Did the same for the keypad unit. Having pressed the main unit's button momentarily you need to get to the keypad, enter the 4 digit code then press and hold the keypad ENTER button until the garage light flashes (or solonoid clicks) twice.

Other points:
My system is the one with gray remotes having three blue buttons.

Be certain that there is nothing blocking the safety light beam across the door and that those sensors are correctly aligned and working. The main unit does not respond to any remote's commands or sync up with any remote/keypad unless this is true.

Be sure you have not set the control panel to 'locked' (there is some kind of lock feature on the wired open/close panel where holding the 'locked' button in for around 10secs changes the system to locked mode)

Bottom line is that I believe the published instructions - certainly for my system - are wrong, and it sent me round in maddening circles until I adopted the above procedure. I had thought I'd messed up all the remotes and was going to have to by all new ones (cheaper to buy a whole new system) from Sears. This would have been no easy option as I live in the UK.

Hope this works for a few other people too. Good luck.

    Bookmark   February 26, 2006 at 9:13AM
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This forum gave me a good education between rolling code vs billion code technology. I have one question. I recently bought a minivan with a homelink feature, and have not had a chance to program it. From what I gather in the homelink programing instruction, it looks as though it is copying the codes from one of the original remotes. I am not using the red button on the motor unit to do the homelink program.If I program the homelink, will I be reverting back to billion code, as my homelink and the motor unit could not know the next set of rolling code, since I did not press the security+ button?

    Bookmark   February 28, 2006 at 1:10AM
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A third-party guy installed my Craftsman 1/2 hp GDO. Since last week, one side bulb (the light) and the sensor is not working... I do not know the reason why. Anybody faced similar problem with yours? It seems Craftsman website is down for site update...(since last two weeks)...

The sensor light at the bottom left of GD is in orange color. Since right one is working, the GDO is still in working condition. I would like it to fix this before the worse.

Appreciate your help.

    Bookmark   March 4, 2006 at 4:15PM
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Make sure the two sensors are pointing directly at one another. Also you can check to make sure they are connected properly at the opener. The 2 white wires with black tracer go to terminal 3 and the 2 solid white wires go to terminal 2.

    Bookmark   March 5, 2006 at 3:08PM
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I have a Sears model 139.53606 door opener that had a keyless entry model 139.53876 that went bad so I bought a new one. I know the instructions say to push the srt button on the back of the opener to program the password, but there is no button, this unit has dip switches. Any Ideas anyone. I am starting to think I have some kind of pieced together hybird unit. I am more than happy to buy a different keypad, but that is the one that has worked since I bought the house 6 years ago.

    Bookmark   March 28, 2006 at 10:38PM
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I think your assumption that you have some hybrid unit is probably correct. Follow the wires that run from terminals 1 and 2 on the back of the motor unit and see where they go. There may be more than one set of wires if your assumption is true. Post back with your findings.

    Bookmark   March 29, 2006 at 4:57PM
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I am trying to reprogram my Craftsman 1/2 HP garage door opener that was purchased back in 2001 with new codes so the old remotes do not work. Can this be done? Is it as simple as just buying 2 new remotes? The unit is a basic unit not indoor access or special pieces to control, just the basic model.

    Bookmark   April 3, 2006 at 11:11AM
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To eliminate the old remotes all you have to do is press and hole the smart/learn button for 6 seconds. This will erase the memory and they will no longer work. You will then need to purchase and program your new remotes.

    Bookmark   April 3, 2006 at 3:43PM
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I have a 1/2 hp craftsman, don't recall model, but it isn't more than 2 years bought.
At 2 am. after being closed for 5 hours, the garage door opened by itself and 30 seconds later closed and 30 seconds later opened. I flipped the outside lights on and it stopped doing it. the green light on the pad was steady green.
What are the chances of a Thief being able to descramble my code or someone new in the neighborhood driving by and having the same code all of a sudden? I promise, I looked outside when I heard it and no cars in site.

The manaual says it may open and close by itself but what exactly does that mean. Out of no where it will just open and close a few times and stop and not do it again?

    Bookmark   April 15, 2006 at 2:57AM
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The old days of "code grabbing" are long gone. It can't happen today. I have never seen anything in the manual about the door opening and closing by itself.

There have been occasions where the installer used uninsulated staples when installing the opener. These have cut through the insulation and caused intermittent operation. Another problem can be the wall button itself. You can eliminate both of these by temporarily removing the white wire with the red tracer from terminal #1 and the white wire that goes to the wall button from terminal #3. Make sure the other wires remain attached. I would try that for a day or two and see what happens.

    Bookmark   April 15, 2006 at 4:10PM
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I too have the same problem with the plastic gear being stripped. I searched with that part number provided by don_ on Wed, Feb 1, 06 at 14:53. This was the desciprition I recevied:

Part Listing for Part Number - 41A2817

Is this the correct piece?


    Bookmark   April 15, 2006 at 5:56PM
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That is the correct part. It is actually a kit. A drive gear, a worm gear, 2 roll pins and a tube of grease.

    Bookmark   April 17, 2006 at 7:07PM
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I recenty purchased a home with a Craftsman 1\2 HP GDO model 139.53615sr. I have no remote. The garage door work fine with the hard wired wall unit. I bought a new remote from Sears model 139.53680. That is the one they said would work for my GDO. It won't program. I tried the erase procedure, holding the learn button until the indicator light goes out. The light never goes out. Following the instructions that came with the remote, I pressed and released the learn button and within thirty seconds pressed the large button on the remote. The light on the GDO goes out after about thirty seconds with no programming, not the six seconds as the instructions said. The instructions for the new remote states that the learning button should be orange, mine is yellow and that the indicator light should be yellow and mine is red. Does it make a difference? Do I have a bad logic board or maybe just the wrong remote. Am I doing somethig wrong? I looked and did not see any switches to match up on the GDO or the remote. Please help. Thank you!


    Bookmark   May 3, 2006 at 1:09AM
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The information I have is that the correct remote for your opener is 139.53778. There is a possibility the number has changed and I do not have the update. I suggest you call Sears and see if this number has changed.

    Bookmark   May 3, 2006 at 6:32PM
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Please Help! I have a Craftsman 1/2 HP GDO Model: 139.53914D. It opened to the set limit (NOT resting on the stop bolt), but won't close. It has 5 flashes on the LED, which indicates RPM Sensor failure or motor overheat (according to the manual). I've unplugged to reset, no good. I've tried adjusting the limits and the force sensors - no good. Does the RPM sensor need replacing? The motor does work, travel stops when it hits the upper limit sensor - not the bolt. Any ideas?

    Bookmark   May 20, 2006 at 4:16PM
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Finally a REAL SOLUTION!!!! I purchased two new craftsmen remotes to replace my old ones. I was having the same problem with one of the remotes not working, but they could be programmed seperately to work but never worked together. I found this board and was about to go to Sears to return them thinking one was defective because of the billion code deal but before I returned them, I opened up both of the remotes and noticed they had numbers with sliders that could be moved in 3 different positions with each number. I compared the two remotes and sure enough the factory had one of the pins out of location. Once both remotes where exactly matched all I had to do was program one and the other worked as well. What a pain in the you know what!!!! I've been racking my brain for a while trying to figure this out. Hope this helps.

    Bookmark   June 11, 2006 at 3:59PM
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I had the problem of my GDO (139.53970SRT)not recognizing my remote opener (139.53879, grey button) after changing the battery. I followed the advice on this thread, to no avail. I had been standing on a chair underneath the GDO while attempting the reset. Failing on my last try, I jumped off the chair to go inside and gave it one last f-you click from the back door. The GDO light flashed, it had took! Maybe the increased distance was the key. Hope this helps someone...

    Bookmark   June 25, 2006 at 12:56PM
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Can anyone help with suggestions before I call a repair service? I have power to my Craftsman 139.53636SRT-1/2HP GDO and I know the sensors are alligned (tried wall switch while blocking sensors and the lights on the GDO began flashing); when I press the wall switch the GDO clicks but does not close. Is there a simple to replace (possibly worn) gear or some other potentially simple fix I can most likely do without calling a repair service? Thanks in advance. Rick

    Bookmark   June 26, 2006 at 2:14PM
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Check to see if the trolley (the thing the chain is connected to) is jammed against a bolt just in front of the motor unit. If so, remove the bolt and then turn the 'up limit' about 3 turns in the direction opposite the arrow printed on the cover. You will find the 'up limit' on the side of the operator. Takes a small screw driver. Be sure to replace the bolt.

    Bookmark   June 26, 2006 at 2:41PM
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After speaking to Sears Cust. Service rep. it sounds like I need to replace the cicuit board...

    Bookmark   June 26, 2006 at 3:07PM
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I have a model 139.53535SRT. For the last few weeks, the door will not go down without reversing multiple times somewhere in the downward motion as if something is arbitrarily being put in front of the sensors as it is going down, but there isn't anything in the way. The sensor lights shine brightly and constantly. I've adjusted the downward force to every conceivable level; no help. I've even unhooked the door from the trolley to see if it would still reverse with no weight and with nothing really moving in front of the sensors, and it still reverses. I've now tried everything I can think of.

I did just discover, however, that if I push and hold the hard-wired, wall-mounted control, the door will go down without any problem every time. Push and release the control like you normally would and it will reverse somewhere in its travels. It reverses every time with a remote, too.

Anyone have any ideas what may cause this and, if so, how it can be fixed? Sears won't answer any of my questions since it is not under warranty, so no help there.

    Bookmark   August 2, 2006 at 6:42PM
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You have a door sensor problem. Nothing else will cause this problem. It will appear the lights are on bright and steady from a standing position but if you get down close and look you can see one of the blinking ever so slightly. Tweak them ever so slightly to align them.

    Bookmark   August 2, 2006 at 7:03PM
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I am trying to reprogram the opener using the green button on the back of the head unit. After I clear the first code and press the button on the GDO, the light blinks as is states in the instructions. It appears that the code has been reset, although when I press the homelink button on my vehicle, (w/o programming the new opener to the vehicle) the old code still works. Any ideas?

    Bookmark   August 6, 2006 at 4:31PM
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This board is a tremendous resource! Hoping you can help what seems to be a unique situation. We recently moved into a new house with a Craftsman 1/2 h.p. GDO dated 1999 ( I don't have the model no. with me right now). The previous homeowners did not have any remotes, but suggested that we could purchase universal remotes from CT. I recently purchased 2 remote units and additionally a Wireless Keyless Entry System Transmitter (all Skylink products) I had no problem programming both remotes to work, however the keyless entry system is another story. The Receiver is a "learn" type with a red SRT button. I tried programming the keypad with the receiver and got the opener to accept the initial signal from the keypad transmitter no problem - there was immediate recognition and the garage door either opened or closed completely immediately upon programming. However, I encounter a problem with the next operation following setup. If the garage door is already in the open position and I enter the code and entry button on the transmitter, my garage door moves to about 1 fifth of the way closed, then suddenly reverses back to the full open position and stops. Alternatively, if the door is in the fully closed position and I use the keyless transmitter, it opens about 12 inches and stops. If I then re-enter the code and enter, the door closes fully again the 12 inches, but then immediately opens up all the way. It almost seems like there are two signals being sent with each entry.

Have you encountered the problem I noted above, and can you offer any advice as to what may be happening or how it can be corrected? Since the two remotes (as well as the wall switch) work flawlessly, I assume this is not a problem with the door sensors, but something with the signal from the keyless entry pad to the receiver.

Anyone had this problem?

Any help would be much appreciated!


    Bookmark   August 8, 2006 at 4:45PM
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appompa255 if I understand you correctly you are trying to change the code. You can't do that. The code is in the remote. The receiver in the head unit learns and remembers that code. So each time you program a remote you are putting that remotes code back in. Let me know if I misunderstood you.

Sean it sounds to me like you have hit the nail on the head. I would see if you can return the keypad for an exchange. It sure sounds like there is something wrong with it.

    Bookmark   August 8, 2006 at 5:29PM
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My garage door openers stopped working about two weeks ago. They would both starting working intermitently but now not at all. The wall unit works but neither of the hand held remotes will work unless they are within two inches of the unit. I reset both of the remotes and I know they work because if I hold them within two inches of the opener inside the garage they will work. If I have the remotes farther than two inches away they will not work. What can I do to get them to work when I'm outside of the garage (or more than two inches from the unit)?

    Bookmark   August 19, 2006 at 10:40PM
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WOW !!!!! Don is a GENIUS !! After changing the battery in both my car remote and wireless remote I could not make the wireless work. The car remote was easy to reprogram. Then I read Don's reply from Sept. 10 '05 . . .

"Press and immediately release the button on the back of the motor unit. Walk over to your keypad and key in any 4 digit code of your choice and press enter. Should do the trick."

The "press and immediately release" was the key.

PERFECT !!!!! Thanks so much. This was the most frustrating thing.

    Bookmark   September 1, 2006 at 12:03PM
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I have a craftsman 1/2 opener. My remote keypad just stopped working. I replaced the battery, and it didnt fix the problem. I pushed the "button" by the white wires, and immediatley went and pushed my 4 digit code and hit enter. All I get is a blinking keypad(blinksoer 10 times) My car remotes work fine. I repeated the process 10 times ( pressing button for both shorter and longer periods) to no avail. Please Help!

    Bookmark   September 6, 2006 at 9:53PM
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Your keypad has quit working.

    Bookmark   September 7, 2006 at 7:02PM
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Thank you for that...........I kept trying after I posted this message. It did work a few times by randomly pressing buttons (I still dont know which ones made it open) but it still continues to blink (10 - 12 times) So I am assuming should go out and buy a new one?

    Bookmark   September 8, 2006 at 6:25AM
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Try programming your keypad one more time using this exact sequence. Press and immediately release the smart/learn button. Key in any 4 digit code you can easily remember on the keypad and press enter. If the keypad is working it will operate the door. If not it won't and you should purchase a new one.

    Bookmark   September 8, 2006 at 5:04PM
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I bought a home with a Craftsman model k711 - 41A3624 already installed. We only have one remote (no keypad) and a home link system in my car. My car was recently stolen and I'd like to reprogram the garage door opener but do not have a manual. How is this done?

    Bookmark   September 10, 2006 at 10:31AM
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My Craftsman model 139.53629SRT worked fine with remote and wall button 'til 2 weeks ago. Now when actuated by either remote or wall button, it hums for 2 seconds and stops. Light bulb doesn't flash; Holding the wall button for 30 seconds has no effect.

Photo eyes at base of door seem to work (the green light on the photo eye stays lit unless path is blocked --> then it goes off. But it stays lit when the symptom above occurs.) (1/2hp 5amp; manuf Nov 1993; 41A4315-6B)
Thanks in advance, Ed

    Bookmark   September 10, 2006 at 9:05PM
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I've followed this thread from beginning to end and followed the advice but still have a problem. My keypad stopped working and after I replaced the battery and still could not get it to reprogram, I went ahead and bought a new one (same model as the broken one). The new one would not program until I wiped out all the codes and then it worked. Unfortunately, at that point, none of the other 3 remotes would re-program. When I wiped out the codes (i.e. started over) and programmed the 3 handheld remotes first, they worked, but then the keypad would not program. I have tried every combination of programming order to no avail. Simply put, the remotes will not program if the keypad is programmed and vice versa. Since it is the same model keypad as the one which worked for 10 years, I'm completely at a loss for how to proceed. Any help is definitely welcome.

    Bookmark   September 19, 2006 at 8:13PM
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Hi, I have a mid 90's 1/2 hp garage door (2 of them). My problem is the remotes I have don't have batteries in them. Does anyone know what battery goes in the remotes? 139.53681 is on the back of the remote if that helps. Also, anyone know where I can download the manual? Thanks Josh

    Bookmark   September 19, 2006 at 9:05PM
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I've had two Craftsman Garage Door openers (Model 41A3625) that have worked perfectly for nearly 15 years. Recently the one we use most often has started reversing when it reaches the floor upon closing. I found that it is exerting enough down force on the door to bow the track rod on the opener. Reducing the Down Force knob on the rear of the unit reduces the bow in the track rod, but it does not stop the reversal. What went wrong? How can I fix it? I'm guessing a limit switch somewhere inside the unit quit working, but I have no idea where.

    Bookmark   September 20, 2006 at 7:56PM
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slashmanmusic you need 2 each #3V2016 Lithium Batteries.

john515 Your door is closing too far. When it hits the floor the safety senses the door has hit something and reverses to the open position. On the side of the motor unit you will find 2 adjustments. One is the up limit and the other is the down limit. Using a small screwdriver turn the down limit 3 or 4 turns in the opposite direction of the arrow printed on the cover. What you want is for the door to stop short of hitting the floor and then you can tweak that adjustment until the door closes properly. Keep in mind that if you run the motor too much while tweaking this adjustment it may shut off on the thermal overload. This is to protect the motor from overheating. If this happens you'll have to wait about 15 minutes and then it will automatically reset.

    Bookmark   September 21, 2006 at 6:24PM
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It will really help if you start a new post rather than adding onto this one that is over 120 posts long. Please!

    Bookmark   September 21, 2006 at 6:29PM
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Don, Sjohansen (wrote on Aug. 2) has the same problem I have on my Craftsman 139.53927. I have adjusted the light safety reversing senors and they are definitely aligned. I'm pretty sure it is the downward force adjustment that is broken. If I futz with the adjuster I'll usually get the GDO to work. Also, my downward force limiter screw, unlike the upward force limiter can continuously rotate; plus it seems loose. After a few uses of the opener the garage door stops working and returns to moving only a few inches. I believe the adjuster is getting diconnected or something. Do you know if this is possible?

    Bookmark   September 21, 2006 at 6:46PM
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If your down force control can be turned 360 degrees it is bad. If your door opener is approaching 10 years of age just replace it.

    Bookmark   September 21, 2006 at 7:24PM
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Thanks for the help with the closing limit switch. I found that the switch is physically broken, probably by running past the point where the switch contact was supposed to stop the motor. I've glued the switch housing back together, but I'm betting the control circuit on the main board may have died. I'll put the switch back in and see if it overruns again.

Thanks again!

    Bookmark   September 21, 2006 at 11:11PM
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This is a great board, thank you for keeping it going. I also have a half horse motor with a different problem. Yesterday when lifting the door just didn't stop until it hit it's own unit (breaking the light bulb on the front. When shut it goes all the way down the retracts as though there was something in the way, again, all the way up to the unit. It as though it does not know it's limits. This is a model 139.53637 (06/94). Yes I know your first peice of advise will be to replace it because it's over 10 years old, but if I can somehow set these limits I'd be all set. It's working great asside from that.

    Bookmark   September 26, 2006 at 8:14PM
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Your limit switch assembly has apparently quit working. Unusual for it to fail in both directions. I suggest you remove the cover and watch how the limit switches work. If they are making contact but just running past I would suspect the logic board. Have you had lightning?

    Bookmark   September 27, 2006 at 2:09PM
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I also have 1 craftsman half H.P (13 years old). Recently my teen daughter hit one of the electric eyes and smashed it (don't ask). I decided to completely bypass the photo eyes and just have the wall button control. I pulled new wire to it and the unit. It's only a two wire deal and should be simple but now the unit only will open the door. When it reaches its limit it stops just fine, but will not go down. When I push the wall switch the motor stiil hums but the chain gets super tight as if it's only trying to open the door more. I took the chain off and ran the motor without it, and it spins just fine, but only in the upwards position. Any ideas. Thank you.

    Bookmark   September 27, 2006 at 5:44PM
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The opener will never work properly without the sensors. There are also additional problems. Why did you have to pull new wire?

    Bookmark   September 27, 2006 at 6:29PM
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I will help anyone I can that has a problem with a door opener but I am no longer going to answer any posts here. It is already over 120 posts and much too long. Please read the instructions at the top of the forum and start your own post.

    Bookmark   September 27, 2006 at 6:58PM
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I have found the solution to what was causing my sears garage door opener to bounce back after moving a foot or so. It was the wires that connect the eyes to the box. They were wiggling loose. I restripped them and made sure they were in really secure and the opener works like new.

    Bookmark   October 12, 2006 at 6:12PM
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Hi, I just wanted to thank JayDee53 for his bits of information, he was right on the mark. We were having problems programming the two remotes, had changed a battery, and it seemed to be that we should only push and release fast, not hold the "learn" button on the motor. Also the informaton about the remote keypad really helped as we had purchased this opener new from someone who had replaced his door and got a free opener. We had gotten two yellow light sensors instead of two different colors, so our frustration was already great, when we figure that out...then the remotes were only letting one program, and not the other. I read Dee Jay's gems of information, and we were able to program both remotes and the keypad. Thanks a bunch.
(Posted by JayDee53 (My Page) on Tue, May 17, 05 at 11:01)
Blessings to you for sure...
Also thanks to Don: Posted by Don_ (My Page) on Tue, Feb 15, 05 at 11:01...) for the information on the keypad. You two could do a program or something and save alot of headaches for everyone.

    Bookmark   May 14, 2007 at 11:12PM
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the opener was used, new to us, lol.....thanks again

    Bookmark   May 15, 2007 at 10:53PM
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I am renting a home with a Sears Craftsman Model 139.654001 Garage Door Opener. It has 2 remotes, both are Model 139.53778. The wall unit has only 1 button and plugs into an outlet to work. Each of the transmitters has 3 buttons and a red light. The wall unit also has a red light. Recently, when I was returning hom at night, I inadvertantly hit one of the small buttons on one of the transmitters and now it will not work. There are no symbols on it to tell me what each button does AND there is no reset switch on the motor unit. I assume this unit is really old. The other transmitter works fine. Can anyone help me please?

    Bookmark   July 8, 2007 at 2:48PM
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Hitting the wrong button would not have caused a problem. The transmitter may have just died but you can try a new battery.

    Bookmark   July 9, 2007 at 2:39PM
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All 3 buttons do the same thing, you have to change the 1st dip switch to change which button is being used. It must match the switches on the motor unit. That is a very old GDO!

    Bookmark   July 9, 2007 at 3:15PM
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Thanks for the help! The dip switch is set to the button I use. I'm going to try a new battery and see what happens.

    Bookmark   July 17, 2007 at 7:56PM
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My keyless entry pad does not have the "enter" key, just 0-9 digits. Does anyone know how to reprogram this model? 139.53970SRT. The old owners code still works, so the keypad is working, and I have the red reset button by the wires too. Please advise.

    Bookmark   July 22, 2007 at 12:35PM
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I just bought a home with two craftsman 1/2 openers but did not receive remotes for them. I just purchased a Genie intellicode but cannot get it programmed. I held down on the remote button,then pushed the button on the back of the opener,then released the remote button. the green light on the opener stays on for about ten seconds then goes out. and i have tried this with both openers and neither will do anything. the wall buttons work just fine so im sure its something that im doing wrong please help

    Bookmark   December 25, 2007 at 10:12AM
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Genie doesn't work with Craftsman.

    Bookmark   December 26, 2007 at 12:30PM
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Help! My original 92' Craftsman 41A3624 is being opend by my wife's and my neighbor's home link systems that were programmed for new Genies'. I have only programmed my wife's home-link to activate her Genie side and did not program it to open my Craftsman side. I have erassed all codes several times and even whent as far as to unplug the Genie's while re-programming the Craftsman and visa versa. Any idea's?

    Bookmark   February 9, 2008 at 5:15PM
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RE: Craftsman 1/2 HP Garage Door Opener, My remotes only work when I stand right next to the door - batteries are new - how can I increase the fequency range?

    Bookmark   April 7, 2008 at 10:42AM
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I Billion Code vs. Security+ Info

I believe Randy is correct. I proved it myself as only one of my 4 remotes can be learned if the keypad is learned first. The others must have lost their ability to roll codes. I'm off to the store to get a new rolling code remote. This has been maddening but I founding this thread has kept my sanity.

re. Posted by Randy Smith ( on Sun, Nov 13, 05 at 22:27

    Bookmark   May 18, 2008 at 2:47PM
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I just replaced a 1995 Craftsman 1/2 hp chain drive with a new Craftsman 1/2 hp screw drive (much quieter). It comes with 2 security+ remotes that work fine. It has a blue learn button on the back of the motor.

I can't program my old keypay or the old remotes to the new garage door opener. Is that because they are not Security+ type remotes? Do I have to buy a new "Security+" type keypad and extra remotes for them to work.

Frustrating. The manual is silent on this.

    Bookmark   March 10, 2011 at 4:22PM
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I got it figured out. I am renting and received one GDO Remote upon move-in. I bought a keypad and universal (both Clicker) All three remotes together are type 2666A. So they're the same...But, I had the same problem with only one of the three holding the code at a time. THE FIX: The original remote and the Clicker Universal both have dip switches inside (Original had 9 switches and universal had 13). I reset all the dip switches to off or position 3 on both remotes and they both worked (programming with the smart-learn button). Then, I re-programmed my keypad using the new dip-switch sequence. All three remotes now work!

    Bookmark   July 19, 2011 at 11:01PM
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After being fustrated for such a long time about not being able to program both remotes, I followed JayDee53 instructions & everything worked out great.
- make sure your door is closed.
- just poke the learn button on your motor, don't hold it for 1 second or 2, just poke it.
- press the button on your remote control & the light should flash immediately.

Thanks JayDee53

I now have my 2 remotes working, my keypad on the outside & my wall mounted pad on the inside of my garage.

    Bookmark   October 31, 2011 at 1:59PM
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I just bought a house that has a craftsman opener without remotes so I called sears and asked if they could get me one I gave them the model number but they said it is no longer available. So my car has one in the visor. We were able to program that but another car has one and it won't work. Then I tried the other side that is programmed at another garage and it still works there. So we bought the keyless entry and can't get it to program.I'm looking at all the comments but they have the opener what to do without one. we have the button on the wall is that how we program it to the wireless control's?

    Bookmark   October 23, 2014 at 11:51AM
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