Dry wall tape showing through 4 coats of paint

ctiguySeptember 9, 2006

We have 1 coat Kelley Moore PVA wall sealer and 4 coats of Kelley Moore 100% Acrylic Inerior satin Enamel on new sheetrock but the tap joints are still showing through. With each coat the tape joints are slowly fading but you can still see them. If we don't do something different at this rate I'm not sure they will fade away

Any suggestions?

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Were they mudded?

Done properly, You shouldn't be able to see or feel the tape edges even BEFORE the first coat of paint is applied.

    Bookmark   September 9, 2006 at 3:02PM
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Sorry, I guess I need to correct my description. I can't feel or see any the tape joint edges they seem to blend perfectly. The paint seems to be more shiny in the areas where the tape joints are. At first we though it was due to brush painting in the corners but after looking at th rest of it we noticed the sheetrock butt joints that got the same tape and mud treatment but were rolled not brushed are shiny like the corners. Depending on the angle we don't notice it, most angles we do notice it.

    Bookmark   September 9, 2006 at 4:01PM
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You have done one of the hardest things in drywall.
A wall surface with a non-flat (satin in this case) finish.
The entire wall should have been skimmed with mud to even out the paint absorption.
A layer of oil base primer as the first coat would have made a huge difference also. The water from the paint would not penetrate it and be absorbed differently between mud and cardboard altering the surface sheen.
About the only cure now is probably to add more layers of paint until the absorption evens out. You might switch to a primer and apply a pretty heavy coat.

    Bookmark   September 9, 2006 at 5:46PM
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Brickeyee, not what I wanted to hear but thanks.

This is just 1 area and I have more to rock mud and tape to do. I think I've seen a mesh type tape before. Would it be better to mesh tape use that rather than the paper tape? Then oil based primer? Is there a better brand than paint for this than Kelley Moore. I had a similar problem a few years back with Behr.

    Bookmark   September 9, 2006 at 7:01PM
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It is the differnca in absorption of the joint compound that casues the problem, not the tape itself.
Non-flat finishes also tend to make every defect more visible.
An oil based promer goes a long way to stopping the absorption of latex based top coats.
The only other real solutionis to skim the entire wall. this is not as hard as it sounds since the seams are already 16 inches wide or so, along with the fastener spots in the center of the panel.
If you learn to skim with a plasterer's trowel it actually goes very quickly. Regular knives are not the thing for covering very large areas.

    Bookmark   September 10, 2006 at 9:09AM
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Can't he just prime and repaint?

New drywall must be primed before painting. We use a latex primer made for new drywall and have never had a problem with the taped areas showing as more matte than the rest.

I HAVE painted over little unprimed patches so I do know what you're talking about.

    Bookmark   September 10, 2006 at 9:31AM
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Brushworks Spectacular Finishes

Oil primer is not the solution! I'm trying to remember when I last used an alkyd primer inside a house..1978?? I think.

PVA primer is vinyl acetate and it seals a wallboard very well as long as it's applied according to directions (generous coat). It's not my first choice, but it works well when applied according to directions.

Try one more coat of paint. Be generous, keep a wet edge, lay off properly and you'll see a difference.


    Bookmark   September 10, 2006 at 9:52AM
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Oil primer works every time though. The layer is even a vapor barrier, unlike latex or PVA paints that still allow water vapor movement.
No one likes to use oil because of the cleanup, not because the water based products are superior. Some are close, but they are not better.

    Bookmark   September 10, 2006 at 2:11PM
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Brushworks Spectacular Finishes

Experience and knowledge of paints leads me to disagree with you brickeyee.

Most quality acrylic primers are superior to alkyd base interior primers. Even manufacturers which offer both will attest to that.

Since alkyd paints are being banned in most states, manufacturers have discontinued interest in them. There's no financial future in doing so. Therefore, they have spent their R&D dollars in developing superior acrylic products.



    Bookmark   September 10, 2006 at 2:30PM
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Absent sme factual eveidence I wil rely on my over 40 years of experience.
They have spent their research dollars trying to match the performance of the alkyd paints.
In some cases they have come close, but over the past 40 years the best surface finish for gloss woodwork and the highest adhesion to wood and wallboard still belongs to the alkyds.
Even degraded by the VOC regulations alkyds have a better bond to the underlying material. They rarely exhibit the problems of any acrylic or latex paint and peel off in sheets.
It is possible to get acrylic to stay attached, but it is still more work than getting an alkyd to stay on the surface.

    Bookmark   September 10, 2006 at 9:22PM
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5th coat of paint and still showing through.

More background- Ceiling sheetrock was replaced walls were old. We put 3 skim coats of mud on the walls to cover the old texture. We then textured everthing with a medium dot sray texture. A thick coat of the Kelley Moore PVA wall sealer was applied over everthing and now we have 5 coats(first 2 coats were normal coats 3,4 and 5 were thick) of the Kelley Moore 100% Acrylic Inerior satin Enamel. All the ceiling joint lines show though even on the walls that were skim coated. But none of the wall joints show through except on the ceiling corner.

Are we sure it is not the tape??? I don't see any joints on the walls below the ceiling corners.

    Bookmark   September 11, 2006 at 2:10PM
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Brushworks Spectacular Finishes

You should have been advised to coat the skim coat with GARDZ prior to any other primers or paints.

Can you send us a picture?


    Bookmark   September 11, 2006 at 7:38PM
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Methinks that the previous 4 coats were put on very wet and the whole shebang should cure for at least a week before proceeding. Who knows what could happen were it allowed to cure bone-dry? It may lay down and behave after all. More coats is obviously _not helping_.

    Bookmark   September 11, 2006 at 8:14PM
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I replaced about 1/2 the drywall in our bedroom last summer, primed (inexpensive primer - don't remember brand) and painted with a satin finish. No skim coat and it looks great.

I think this is a paint issue. If you cover with new primer and new paint (different brand) you can probably solve this.

I think I might do a small test area first before investing in repainting everything.

    Bookmark   September 13, 2006 at 2:48PM
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What paint/primer brand and type should I try? I see on Consumer Reports the Behr (Home Depot) Premium Plus Enamel is rated tops and great for for hiding (whatever hiding is). In the last house we had a similar issue with Behr semi gloss paint and the Kilz primer. Not sure if it was the same type of paint but I painted 2 coats of Kilz primer and several coats of semi-gloss white but it was not covering. I gave up after about 5 coats total. The rest of the house had semi gloss painted by the home manufacturer and it looked very nice and cleaned up great (kids). The one room I painted had the flat paint and the texture would come off the walls when you had to clean it. Current house has similar flat paint everywhere and we hate it but can't seem to get the coverage the home builder did in the last house with semi-gloss paints. we're about ready to give up, costs to much time and money to put on 5 coats and still not look good.

I'm going to wait at leat a week or more before trying a new primer and paint.

Wish me luck!

    Bookmark   September 13, 2006 at 4:12PM
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I would say take 220 sand paper sand the ceiling both directions then add 1 coat of paint. See what you get from this it has worksd for me over 22 years.

    Bookmark   January 18, 2011 at 6:58PM
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