HELP! Beadboard ceiling yellowing!

savionbarnesAugust 24, 2014

I had my popcorn ceiling replaced with beadboard and it was painted with Behr premium paint plus primer (water based) it's been two and a half weeks and my ceiling is turning yellow. Did I do something wrong? Did I use the wrong ceiling paint? I've attached a photo so you can see! Advice would be appreciated!

Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
PRO
Sophie Wheeler

Should have been primed with a shellac based primer first to keep the wood tannins from bleeding through.

    Bookmark   August 24, 2014 at 4:31PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
HandyMac

Just more proof for me paint and primer combined is a ripoff.

Hollysprings nailed the cause.

The remedy is to use an oil based shellac primer(I prefer BullsEye 123 over Kilz from experience) and repaint with regular paint.

You might be able to use a water based Bullseye, but the oil based has never failed to protect for me---and I have painted pine knots that were oozing sap(enough to feel) and were sealed.

    Bookmark   August 24, 2014 at 4:38PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
hippy

#1. used water based paint.
#2. problem. You used Behr.
#3. Should have used a coat of polyurethane or oil based sealer to seal the wood before the paint was ever applied.

Since most beadboards are made of cedar or pine. It acts as a sponge when water based paints are used. The rosin/pitch/sap will continue to bleed through the paint until it is properly sealed with an oil based product.

    Bookmark   August 25, 2014 at 10:33AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
schoolhouse_gw

I learned the hard way too, only with bedroom trim painted white. When it came time for the kitchen remodel and bead board ceiling (and walls), I used the shellac based primer. So far, so good and it's been three years. I have yet to tackle the job of going back and sanding all the yellow spots on the casing and baseboards in the bedrooms and re-priming/painting. ugh.

    Bookmark   August 25, 2014 at 11:21AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
savionbarnes

Thanks everyone. @hippy what brand of paint do you recommend after? (Preferably affordable)

    Bookmark   August 25, 2014 at 3:31PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
andrelaplume2

my two cents...I am no professional...what I know I learned from pop, a union painter for 30+ years..

#1. used water based paint.
Not sure if he was referring to just the primer. Do they even make oil based paint anymore? Pop loved it back in the day, especially for primed wood trim...very durable...ironically, back in the day, eventually the molding he used it on yellowed for me after a number of years. Currently I use/used bulseye water base throughout my house.

#2. problem. You used Behr.
I won't start this debate up again. I used Behr thru my whole house...no problems. Think of how many gallons are sold; and its $25+ a gallon...not super cheap.....if it was crap it would not be sold. Pop used to say the prep was more important than the brand. I don't buy into the all in one paint....no matter what brand though...

3. Should have used a coat of polyurethane or oil based sealer to seal the wood before the paint was ever applied.
No idea...I'd have used the bullseye...maybe my ceiling would be yellow too! Not sure...I have primed exterior wood with Bullseye and painted...no yellowing...

    Bookmark   August 25, 2014 at 11:38PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
savionbarnes

I'm a beginner DIYer I didn't know my ceiling would yellow. I feel foolish now but definitely learned my lesson. So it doesn't matter what brand of paint I use as long as I use a good primer/sealer. Would zinsser bin be a good choice?

    Bookmark   August 26, 2014 at 1:10AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
PRO
Christopher Nelson Wallcovering and Painting

You do not need Bin which is shellac based and very expensive. Just get Zinsser's odorless Cover Stain and problem solved. It matters not what you put over it, although Behr would be my very last choice.
Somebody up there said oil based shellac and there is no such thing

    Bookmark   August 26, 2014 at 3:24AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
sombreuil_mongrel

Poly will still pull sap through from knots, as poly is oil-based and had mineral spirits. That's why shellac has been the go-to for sealing sapwood and knots from a century +.
Other problem with poly is of course nothing sticks to it, not even more poly, so you'd have to rigorously scuff sand, So IMHO, really bad advice there.
Casey

    Bookmark   August 27, 2014 at 9:49AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
HandyMac

I should have written shellac based primer---NON water based.

BIN is expensive by the 5 gallon, but not by the gallon, considering the amount of work it eliminates and the almost lifetime protection. Plus, BIN is thin enough to not fill in the groves in the beadboard.

BIN is an interior primer, so if that ceiling is on an outside porch, the correct primer(from Zinsser) is Bullseye.

Kilz, in my experience is a second class stain blocker---way too thick for detailed paint jobs, like beadboard.

Paint is another entire bees nest of opinions. I personally prefer Sherwin Williams. However, when it comes to interior ceiling paint, one brand is just one brand. Interior ceiling paint has the least wear/tear and only has smoke/etc. as a weathering agent. Most folks never notice how a ceiling darkens unless there are glaring differences.

    Bookmark   August 27, 2014 at 6:11PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
PRO
Christopher Nelson Wallcovering and Painting

Bin = $42 per gal

cover stain=$21 per gal

@ home depot

    Bookmark   August 28, 2014 at 3:04AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
savionbarnes

The beadboard is interior (bedroom ceiling) I have some BIN already, how many coats of BIN do I need to keep anything from bleeding through again? What type of paint would be best as a top coat after the BIN is applied? I've learned my lesson with water based paint! Sorry if I'm asking too much I'm not too familiar with which paint type goes best with what!

    Bookmark   August 29, 2014 at 2:35AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
PRO
Christopher Nelson Wallcovering and Painting

If you have the BIN, go ahead and use it. One coat is all that is needed You can put anything you want over top. Follow directions on can, especially drying time. Personally, I like PPG Manor Hall

    Bookmark   August 29, 2014 at 3:43AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
sombreuil_mongrel

White shellac stain-blocker also comes in an aerosol spray can; it's what we always use while backpriming pine for woodwork. We hit the knots and sap streaks on a bunch of planks, then start priming; by the time we finished spraying the last knot, the first knot is dry. Even if Polyurethane did block knot-bleed, which it doesn't, you would have to wait some hours, if not a day to coat over it, and there's still a risk of poor adhesion.
Casey

    Bookmark   August 29, 2014 at 8:29AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
savionbarnes

Should I just put the shellac over the spots only or go over the entire ceiling?

    Bookmark   August 29, 2014 at 8:36PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
PRO
Christopher Nelson Wallcovering and Painting

as I said
If you have the BIN, go ahead and use it.

just do the whole ceiling

    Bookmark   August 30, 2014 at 4:31AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
savionbarnes

Thank you!

    Bookmark   August 30, 2014 at 3:38PM
Sign Up to comment
More Discussions
Milgard SunCoat vs SunCoat Max vs I89 x-post
x-posted in Windows forum We're getting ready to remodel...
lisa_a
Bad Countertop Fabrication
Hello, Hoping to get some advice/opinions! We just...
diynola
Stair Problem
I'm hoping someone has a brilliant idea for me! I...
isabelyw
Learning to read plans and drawings
We are embarking on the design phase for a remodel...
Susan Taylor Brown
Shaker style question
What are y'all's opinions on Shaker style cabinetry....should...
janelor
People viewed this after searching for:
© 2015 Houzz Inc. Houzz® The new way to design your home™