Sound insulation for lower level woodshop

bobhoodJuly 3, 2014

We are building a new 4 season sun room, 9' above grade, with a 12 x 25 woodshop underneath. The shop has a concrete floor, brick wall on one side, and combo cinder block and frame construction on the "outside" walls.

Looking for suggestions for the best insulation to put in the shop ceiling, so my power tools don't cause levitation of anyone sitting in the sun room above! Ideas?

Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
GreenDesigns

Just dont use the sunroom at the same time you are working on projects. Sound isolation has to be planned for all 6 sides of a room to be effective. Now, if you want to line the walls with lead sheets, you might could expect some results worth spending money on. Even expensive anachoic foam on the ceiling isn't going to do much of anything with the rest of tbe hard echo chamber left unaddressed.

    Bookmark   July 3, 2014 at 10:05AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
HandyMac

The major part of the sound transmission will be in the wood flooring---joists and subfloor.

My shop is in our fully enclosed basement. My 2hp dust collector is in an outside corner, under a bedroom. My 6" jointer is next to the DC and a router table next to that.

A former owner had a suspended ceiling installed---the normal metal grid with pressed paper inserts. That cuts down on a great deal of the noise.

I frequently use the shop when the wife is napping or watching TV in the living room.

    Bookmark   July 3, 2014 at 10:24AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
lazy_gardens

A well-constructed ceiling done with proper sound insulation techniques will go a long way towards cutting down the workshop noise.

1 - There is the noise ricocheting around the workshop ... that's dealt with by sound absorbing panels in the room.

2 - There is the noise that penetrates the floor and annoys people upstairs.

A: NO VENTS IN COMMON!

B: Look up the sound-proofing and acoustic isolation construction techniques for sound booths and the like. The techniques aren't difficult or expensive BUT you have to design with them in mind.

    Bookmark   July 4, 2014 at 4:08PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
renovator8

This problem is normally solved by attaching a drywall ceiling to a resilient suspension system. Acoustic insulation will help a little but really only deals with sound that travels horizontally from crack to crack.

The minimum system would be resilient channels attached to the floor joists. The best would be channels hung on wires with resilient connectors. The available space is a critical issue

    Bookmark   July 4, 2014 at 4:44PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
jackfre

I wouldn't do anything until I knew there was a problem. I wouldn't want to Sheetrock or cover that ceiling with anything but racks for handing off-cuts, templates, and other hardware. It is best to have access to that space in a shop. Yours is a nice sized shop. You won't believe how much you will put up there.

    Bookmark   July 4, 2014 at 9:38PM
Sign Up to comment
More Discussions
Build an Addition, Move, or Stick it out?
We live in a land-locked area with high real estate prices....
neverlandpirate
Clueless - help me decide on floorplan!
I need help! We are renovating and adding on to a 1600...
essenay
"Green" Remodeling - where to start?
We would like to remodel using materials and processes...
prairiemoon2 z6 MA
Laying tile without cement board?
We pulled some tile up in several spaces. The tile...
nostalgicfarm
extending roof with a patio cover and it's tight
I have a fifty year old Santa Fe style house (old style,...
JPT
© 2015 Houzz Inc. Houzz® The new way to design your home™