Which do you install first, Appliances or Countertop?

NJHMApril 29, 2013

During a kitchen remodel, do we install the appliances first or the countertops?

I am trying to figure out the sequence.

Thank you for your help.

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If you have a cutout for a cooktop, the counter needs to go on first.

    Bookmark   April 29, 2013 at 6:17PM
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My contractor is putting in the appliances last, after the countertop and flooring.

    Bookmark   April 29, 2013 at 6:29PM
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My fridge is surrounded by cabinetry, so I can put that in right away. Countertop goes over the dishwasher, so that won't be any more of a hindrance than cabinets - I guess I'll install that right away too.

I'll have about a 3-week delay between cabinet install and countertop install. My cabinet maker is going to cut particle board or something for me to use in the interim. I'll slide the range into place, so I can use it, but pull it out for the quartz install. It's just a standard size electric - shouldn't be a problem to move it for a day.

    Bookmark   April 29, 2013 at 6:38PM
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Counters, then appliances. Less of a chance to damage any appliances with counter install, which is a heavy, awkward, and sometimes even a bit of a messy job. I watched my installers use the the empty DW space for foot and leg space while installing my marble. I would hate to have had yet one more thing about which to be nervous (damaging my DW) while marble was going on. It was a stressful enough affair.

Plus, your cooktop or rangetop will need to go in after the counter install anyway. To my mind, even a range should go in after the fact also. My installers carried my rangetop aross the room and dry fit it in between the two counter pieces to make sure they had a good fit. It was so tight that they had to grind down one side of one of the pieces of marble a bit. No way would I want my rangetop (or range) in that opening while they were trying to lift and set hugely heavy pieces of stone right up against it.

    Bookmark   April 29, 2013 at 8:26PM
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Sophie Wheeler

As long as the appliances are right there for the counter templaters to actually measure their exact dimensions, then you can do counters first. But if they aren't there, you don't need to template without them on site.

    Bookmark   April 29, 2013 at 8:35PM
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I had my new appliances delivered first, so that the template could be done for the new granite countertop. Very important for our kitchen because I have the GE Profile slide in induction range, and it had to be on site so it could be measured properly. I did not want to take the risk that the counter would be incorrect and then the granite company could say - "Oh, the actual range was not there on site, so we could not get an exact measurement etc."

    Bookmark   April 29, 2013 at 11:07PM
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This is very very helpful. Thank you so so much.

With the exception of the Miele Dishwasher, all the other appliances (36" Wolf Range, 42" Wolf Vent Hood, Miele Refrigerator, and Sharp Drawer Microwave) have been delivered and are on site.

There is an island in front of the range and the width of the walkway between the island and the range is around 40" so I was a little bit concerned about trying to slide in the range once the counter top was installed and if there was enough room for easily maneuvering it in place.

The appliance store was going to send their installers to install all the appliances, but at appliance delivery time, the installer came along and said that they do not install 42" wide vent hoods, so I am stressed out about finding someone to install just the hood for me. I just didn't need this hassle in an already extremely difficult remodel that I am going through.

Any helpful hints (or something that I should watch out for) about vent hood will be greatly appreciated as I am clueless about that part of the job.

And does anyone tile behind the range (heat considerations) or is drywall good enough?

    Bookmark   April 30, 2013 at 10:31AM
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I don't know why your installers will mount a 30 or 36 inch hood but not a 42.
If you're using a GC, he sould be able to handle the hood install.
As for the range, we tiled behind ours.

It makes for easier clean-up and upkeep.

    Bookmark   April 30, 2013 at 11:08AM
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I acted as my own GC and hired my HVAC company to hang my 42" wide hood, run the ductwork, and pop the hole the hole through the roof. My electrician then hooked up the electrical for the fan and lights. Easy.

    Bookmark   April 30, 2013 at 11:23AM
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Your installers don't install 42" hoods???? Why not? Mine didn't even blink an eye. (I have a 42" hood over a 36" cooktop.)

Regarding your stressful remodel - ours was also extremely stressful with so many mistakes made by both the KD and the installer and neither wanting to take responsibility for the issues - but we eventually got through it all.

Hang in there and stand your ground when necessary...once it's done, the stress is gone and you can enjoy the final product (especially if you don't give up and let others tell you what to do)!

    Bookmark   April 30, 2013 at 12:13PM
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Sophie Wheeler

They probably need a second person due to the size and weight. And they don't have a second person.

    Bookmark   April 30, 2013 at 12:14PM
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My HVAC company sent one guy to install my 42" hood. I helped a tiny bit with some support on one end for less than a minute. It can be done by one person if you or DH can assist briefly with little effort. I'm guessing your installer isn't practiced at installing a larger hood and that the reason for not doing it.

    Bookmark   April 30, 2013 at 12:47PM
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No suggestions on the hood, still in venting hades myself, but props to JWVideo for this post in March 2013 about range installation and counter tops which I bookmarked:

"Posted by JWVideo (My Page) on Fri, Mar 15, 13
how to check ahead of wolf installation BEFORE it pushesin
Well, ......
There are a few pro-style stoves whose true width matches the nominal listing. Most nominally 30" and 36" stoves are actually 30 7/8" and 35 7/8" wide. AJ Madison lists the 36" BS at 35 7/8" wide.
Most carpenters would make the gap 36 1/8" just to allow for bowing and bulges and to ease moving the stove in and out of its space.
If you want to make your cabinets really tight, you need to be really sure the sides of the cut-out are perfectly parallel. When you get ready to set your base cabinets, get a 2x4 to check the spacing. Square up the ends and cut it to exactly 36" long. Holding it flat (put a level on the top of it) pass it through the space. If it binds, you need to skoonch cabinets outward a bit."

Hope this helps.

    Bookmark   April 30, 2013 at 1:55PM
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^Oops, that was for base cabinets, but countertops are right above.

    Bookmark   April 30, 2013 at 2:15PM
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Thank you all so much.

We had to fire the GC early on in the remodel for fraud and we are struggling to complete the job ourselves. We had to demolish all that he built and rebuild because there was the danger that the addition might collapse.

When I asked about tiling behind the range, I should have been clearer. I meant behind the range and between the base cabinets.

    Bookmark   April 30, 2013 at 4:17PM
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