What kind of flooring support is needed for stacked W/D?

enduringMarch 22, 2013

I'm thinking of remodeling my other bathroom. And I want to put a stacked washer/dryer in there. I have full access to the underside of the bathroom from the unfinished basement.

Three questions really:
1) I would like to know what kind of flooring support is needed for a stacked washer dryer on the first floor over the basement. The span for the joists is 8.5âÂÂ. the joists are 2x8 old timey lumber. 16â oc spacing. Would I use bracing between the joists at the w/d location? The subfloor is diagonal 3/4x6" old wood from the 20's. Then, on top of that I think, is the original finished floor of 3/4" T&G fir flooring, as has been the case in all the other areas of the house. Currently there is vinyl covering the floor.

2) Should there be a contingency plan for washer water overflow? If so, how is this done?

3) If I have to remove the flooring and sub-flooring due to water damage from the current fixtures, what would be the appropriate flooring and sub-flooring to use for replacing. I am considering porcelain tile and under tile radiant electric heating wires. The jb deflectolator states with my unknown 2x8 joist, my floor has a "deflection of L / 543".

Thanks for your time.

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aidan_m

My stacked unit is just fine sitting on 2x6 joist, spanned 6.5' with 1-1/8" subfloor and 1-1/2" mortar and stone over that.

One important feature, my washer has an anti-vibration function, which maintains a balanced load during the high spin cycle. This is a must if the dryer is sitting on top, where the vibrations are amplified significantly.

An advantage for you is the access from below. You have the option to add bracing later, if is seems necessary.

    Bookmark   March 24, 2013 at 12:52AM
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enduring

Thanks for the encouraging feedback Aidan_m. I don't have the washer/dryer yet so I will take the anti vibration function as a must have. I have heard that Electorlux is a good brand for second floors because they don't vibrate as much as others.

    Bookmark   March 24, 2013 at 11:05AM
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enduring

CRAP, I got tricked into the double post malfunction :)

That is the reason for the edit. I don't need people to read my post twice.

This post was edited by enduring on Sun, Mar 24, 13 at 11:08

    Bookmark   March 24, 2013 at 11:06AM
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brickeyee

Put a bunch of cross bracing (solid 2x lumber) under the area to make sure the load spreads.

    Bookmark   March 24, 2013 at 1:15PM
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zagut

Don't worry about the load.

Be sure to include a pan or other form of drainage.

Vibration isolation would be nice but leaks are your biggest concern.

    Bookmark   March 24, 2013 at 4:46PM
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millworkman

And extra cross bracing and support will hurt how?

    Bookmark   March 24, 2013 at 4:54PM
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enduring

Brickeyee, how far out do I brace? And how many joists?

1) Would I brace between 3 joists under the w/d set (2 rows) or would I include a joist on each side of the area too (4 rows).

2) How many brace sets per row? Maybe 2 per row spaced at 16" (until about about 36" out)?

Zagut, I always worry about the load:) Thanks for the info about the water. I have easy access to the space and can run a line down to the basement from the area. I have seen plastic trays at Lowes for the purpose of setting the washer on to. There is a place to cut a hole for a drain. Is this just supposed to be a garden hose? Or does the plumber PVC a nice drain in place. There is a large drain along my basement wall that the sink and shower tie into currently. It looks like it would be easy enough to tie a washer overflow drain into it too. Unless that is a no-no because of a need for a p-trap or something.

    Bookmark   March 24, 2013 at 5:17PM
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brickeyee

I would put enough cross bracing in to make a grid under the area.

    Bookmark   March 24, 2013 at 5:46PM
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enduring

Thanks Brickeyee, will do.

    Bookmark   March 24, 2013 at 7:03PM
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