Rustoleum Booboo...How to Fix?

springleringMarch 14, 2011

I am renovating a little cottage, and pulled the floor vents out, cleaned them up, and spray painted them with Rustoleum.

They looked like brand new. I left them to dry in the sun for two or three hours, flipped them over, and sprayed the bottoms.

Let 'em dry for an hour, flipped them back upright, and used the last of the paint to give the top another coating. After 15 minutes, the paint started to craze and crackle. I tried wiping one of them off, and made a mess.

Is there some kind of solvent I can use to wipe down the tops to try again? Undersides look fine.

Don't want to toss them because the house is so old, they aren't standard sizes, and replacements will be HTF and pricey.

Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
kudzu9

Look on the can and see what they recommend for cleanup...probably either paint or lacquer thinner. When you sprayed them, did you spray over a previous finish (which may have been incompatible with what you used)?

    Bookmark   March 14, 2011 at 3:36PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
chuckie1944_comcast_net

would like to redo metal cabinet doors and paint over existing paint on walls ,trim on walls is RED . I want to cover it with a lighter color. would like to use a paint with primer in it on both the walls and trim

    Bookmark   June 22, 2011 at 10:29AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
brickeyee

The first layer was not completely cured when you applied the second coat.

As the second layer cured it pulled on the still soft first layer and the first layer crazed.

Stripping both layers back to bare metal is the only real fix at this point.
The first layer may take a long time to cure, or never cure, depending on if the finish is a polymerizing type (hardens by chemical reaction to form a different molecule - varnish type finishes) or a solvent release type (hardens by the solvent evaporating only - shellac or lacquer).

Most of the RustOleum spray paints appear to be solvent release, so they can be stripped with the 'clean up' solvent (and some elbow grease).
Once a polymerizing finish cures it is not very (if any) soluble in the 'clean up' solvent.

    Bookmark   June 23, 2011 at 10:18AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
scrappy25

I suspect that is one of the sprays you have to recoat within an hour or after 24 hours. If you coat within the hour, the layers fuse chemically. After that, you have to wait for the first coat to cure before spraying the 2nd coat. You could test a leveling automobile primer if the crazing is minimal and then coat again. Read the instructions carefully. Good luck!

    Bookmark   June 24, 2011 at 8:59PM
Sign Up to comment
More Discussions
House remodel
Well I got the numbers for the remodel of my 1950s...
buckeye_11
Inquiry into Counterfeit Faucet Certification Marks.
Faucets sold in North America are regulated. They are...
StarCraft Custom Builders
2x8 Joists are 1.75x7.75 and 2x6 Joists are 1.75x5.75? why is this?
Posted this in another forum but looking for more answers. I...
tlbean2004
Structural Engineer - What do I need to Know?
I'm planning a kitchen gut/remodel in my three-story,...
Carrie B
What to do with fireplace/bookcase
I have an old fireplace that needs a rehab badly. What...
jbryan21
© 2015 Houzz Inc. Houzz® The new way to design your home™