Painting and re-staining oak staircase
Hi - 1st post - very impressed with the advice in this forum.
I have a typical 80's house with a curved oak staircase (gold stain with varnish) and lovely sea-foam green carpet. We've lived with this look for 21 years - it's finally time to get outta the 80's. What started off as a replace the carpet project has crept into bathroom, staircase and a full blown kitchen reno's.
What we want to accomplish with the staircase project is:
1) paint the risers - spindles - outer and inner stringers
2) stain (with a dye) the hand rail and newels a darker color
Before the diehard, "why are you painting Oak?" activists come out...The answer - we've lived here 21 years, we are going to be here another 21 years....lets try something new - frankly I'm sick of 80's oak.
How do I do this?
I called an experienced painter and he flat out told me "you can't hide the oak grain and pits with paint!"
Sorry, I refuse to believe this - time to DIY.
This is a big staircase, 123 spindles and lots of continuous railing - it's a big job.
I have done some research; however, I really haven't pieced together all the answers.
I am ready to do some testing on some sample pieces.
Here is my plan based - I have thick skin...please tell me what I should really do?
1) use liquid sandpaper to remove the varnish on just the rail and newels
2) Mask the hand rails and newel
3) spray using my airless (don't have a hvlp) with XIM to precoat the spindles, risers and stringers - I know I will waste...Is HVLP the way to go? I have a buddy that owns a couple of them.
4) spray with an enamel undercoat to fill the pits - is this going to do it?
5) spray with an outercoat - suggestions on the type of paint?
6) finish with a polyurethane coat - curious will this possibly crack? Is this wise? I would like to protect the paint from shoe mark scuffs (on the risers) and chips etc.
7) mask the spindles, risers and stringers
8) sand, sand, sand the handrail and newels
9) use a stain equalizer to balance the grain - not really sure of this step.
add a tint of stain to polyurethane for the first sealer coat - told this will cheat by blending the stain into areas that didn't accept the stain.
finish the final coat with clear polyurethane.
Then...Finish my bathroom project, start on my 1800 sq ft flooring project and complete the nightmare with the kitchen reno which includes opening up a load bearing wall....Nice eh...
Thanks in advance - Regards,