bypassing circuit board on hot tub
I have an 8 year old Leisure Bay hot tub that had a lighting strike, frying the circuit board and control panel. The parts to repair were costly and we did not think the spa was worth this cost. I opened up the access panel and studied the wiring and found that all the 4 components were 110 volt. The blower, main motor, jet motor and heater were all fed out of the circuit board by heavy 110 3 wires cable. I asked an electrician friend of mine if I could use 4 switches and control each component seperately and completly bypass the circuit board. He said it could be done, so I went to work. I bought a 4 pole plastic box, and 4, 20 amp heavy duty toggle switches and wired each component seperately. The result is I now have a perfectly functioning hot tub spending less than $50 for the repair. I broke the hot feed at the switches rather than using the common, this way when the switches are off there is no power on the system. The only problem is that I could not figure out how to wire in the original heater thermostat, so consequently I use a floating pool temperature gauge and when the water reaches my comfort zone, I just switch off the heater. I retained the heavy copper ground going from each one of the units and of course have a GFI plug at the power source. Everything works fine so far, and my wife and I can now enjoy our hot tub again. Everything is fully grounded as before, so we do not worry about shock. If anyone else would like to try this simply "fix" I will be glad to send more detailed instructions.