Huango - answer to question about counter transition

robo (z6a)March 4, 2014

Hi huango, I couldn't reply to your email, so I will just answer your question here. (PLEASE NOTE: The member responding to your post has chosen not to reveal his or her email address. Therefore, you cannot reply to this message via email.)

My quartz has a pencil edge (slightly rounded) so my contractor made a matching slight round on the butcher block.
http://www.graniteshopny.com/images/Edge Styles Photo.jpg

The cabinet installers installed frames painted to match my cabs under the quartz (on top of base cabs) so it was lifted up to be flush with the thicker butcher block.

There is a tight seam between the two but I don't think it's glued. My contractor just butted them tightly.

If we hadn't raised the quartz, we would have done a chamfered edge on the bb to transition between thicker bb and thinner quartz...but my slide in sink was also as thick as the bb, so we chose to raise quartz instead.

Here's a close up of the seam:

This post was edited by robotropolis on Tue, Mar 4, 14 at 23:21

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Muffett

Heh. Apparently it's undergoing a close inspection. Love the paws!

    Bookmark   March 4, 2014 at 11:41PM
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Trebruchet

The un-adhered seam is going to attract crud, but at least it's wide enough to dig out. I would have considered bonding those edges with this stuff:

Here is a link that might be useful: Composite Bonder

    Bookmark   March 5, 2014 at 6:46AM
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robo (z6a)

I'm going to ask my contractor if it's glued...I have no idea! it seems tempting to put a bead of silicone somewhere.

The seam on the other side is more of a ... well, definitely not what I wanted.
As seen in oops thread--this pic also shows how the quartz is thinner.

In retrospect the whole thing was a bit of a pain in the butt, but I love myself every time I just set stuff to dry on the quartz, which I would never allow myself to do on the bb.

This post was edited by robotropolis on Wed, Mar 5, 14 at 7:06

    Bookmark   March 5, 2014 at 6:57AM
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Trebruchet

I would have left a sharp edge on the estone and butted it tight to the butcher block but left the butcher block 1/4" higher.

This detail would look deliberate, the butcher block would protect the sharp edge of the estone, and there would be no gap.

    Bookmark   March 5, 2014 at 7:39AM
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robo (z6a)

I like the flush functionally because the seam's right in the middle of my husband's prep space and it allows countertop to be flush with sink. But I know what you mean completely. These were fabricated u-install remnants but I think I could have gotten them to do a different edge in the parts where the seam was going to be as opposed to the exposed edges. But it would have been hard to gauge very exact dimensions w/o professional template. Stupid budget.

On the plus side, quartz is 110-130 installed here psf (cheapest corian is 70psf before fabrication) and my counters were 40 psf installed, includes the butcherblock cost of course, so I'm very pleased with the bargain option.

This post was edited by robotropolis on Wed, Mar 5, 14 at 11:24

    Bookmark   March 5, 2014 at 7:52AM
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ajc71

Looks cool, would have been tricky to leave it 1/4" higher....you would have had to install the cabs higher or shimmed the top up a 1/4" with matching materials

Composite bonder looks like a great product, had never heard of that...thanks for the link Trebruchet!

    Bookmark   March 5, 2014 at 9:24AM
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Trebruchet

"Looks cool, would have been tricky to leave it 1/4" higher....you would have had to install the cabs higher or shimmed the top up a 1/4" with matching materials"

I was assuming 3cm estone (1 1/4" +-) and standard butcher block at 1 1/2".

    Bookmark   March 5, 2014 at 9:36PM
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robo (z6a)

Trebuchet is right, the stone is shimmed. But the sink would have either stood proud about 3/8" or would have had to be lowered.

    Bookmark   March 5, 2014 at 9:47PM
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robo (z6a)

Trebuchet is right, the stone is shimmed. But the sink would have either stood proud about 3/8" or would have had to be lowered.

    Bookmark   March 5, 2014 at 9:48PM
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huango

Hey,
Thank you for your response. I just found it.
That "butt-against" looks great.

Mine, well, it could be a lot better (but I don't have close-up pictures right now).
The 3cm marble edge is not finished, so it's pretty rough.
The 2.25" BB has a rounded edge (rounding AWAY from the marble) which makes the gap look bigger than it is.

--> What do you/anyone suggest on how to treat this gap, prevent crumbs/crud from ending up in there?
I've just been very careful so far, but ...

thank you very much for your help,
Amanda

sorry for old/fuzzy pictures: during construction:

You can see a bit of the transition here; the gap is large enough that I could squeeze in blue tape (before the bb was stained/waterlox).

    Bookmark   March 6, 2014 at 9:28AM
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robo (z6a)

huango, I'm the farthest thing from an expert, but I wonder if a well-applied bead of clear silicone caulking might help the situation? If I were going to attempt it myself, I would tape both sides of the counter very very close to the edge, apply the bead and wipe out as much of it as I could reach so it didn't intrude visually.

    Bookmark   March 6, 2014 at 10:47PM
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