We are building a set of 3 decks and our contractor is suggesting using CorrectDeck. What would be the issues with this material? fyi...they will not use TimberTeck.
Thanks for any info!
I like the CorrectDeck product, however I don't like the hidden fastener system they use. Face screw it with some trimhead SS screws & it should make you a fine deck.
What is the issue with CorrectDeck's hidden fasteners? I am on the verge of using CorrectDeck for my deck and planned on using the hidden fasteners.
It's the same with all those hidden fasteners not just what they use. Sure it'll look beautiful without the screws showing, but what happens when you need to replace a board for whatever reason. How do you get that one board off if you can't get to the hidden screw? Some I noticed used staples to hold the plastic fastener to the TP joist. I did not like that because the staples were not SS. Not being SS & rather thin I figure the staples would rust out quicker.
Here's a suggestion, use a trimhead screw that has a small head (some are bigger than others) & bury the head down into the material then tap the fluff that comes out of the screw hole with your hammer. With most composites the fluff will mold itself over the hole hardly showing anything. However I have not tried this method with correct deck so you should do a test with some scrap first to see how well it works & if you like the appearance. Another option would be to use those colored trimhead screws. They can have a very neat appearance if you string a line keeping all screws straight. Steer clear of using a chaulk box to do this as some colors of chaulk won't come off.
I installed a 300 sq. ft. deck using Mahogany colored CorrectDeck about 9 months ago. After much research, I went with CorrectDeck because it's harder than most of the composite deck material. I have a 50 lb. dog that tears across the deck, and so far, no scratches from dog claws. It did fade a little more than I expected, but still looks very nice, and may not be so obvious with the lighter colors. The Mahogany is pretty dark to begin with, so fading might be more noticeable. I like knowing I never have to strip and refinish it. The only maintenance I've done is to blow it off about once a week.
I used countersunk 2 1/2" SS screws to install. The material is so hard, you have to predrill or you'll snap the screws off half way in. I learned the hard way. There really isn't any fluff to tap back in the hole when you predrill, so the heads are likely to show. As Al said,using the hidden fasteners is risky if you ever need to remove boards in the middle of the deck.
For the cost and lack of required maintenance, I'd recommend Correctdeck.
Hoby 1993; I built a 350ft2 deck using the grey CorrectDeck signature series using the hidden TY clips last spring. I absolutely love the clean "no screws showing" surface...looks very elegant. The overall deck has weathered well so far. It faded to a lighter grey color, I actually like it better. I didn't use the SS screws, however used the Primeguard Plus Weather Resistant Green Epoxy Coated Deck Screw. They should perform similar to the SS. Deckman22 has a good point, in that your taking a chance that a middle board might become damaged sometime down the line and the only way to replace that board is to cut the fasteners at that location, replace the board and face screw the replacement board in. Which I guess isn't all that bad. It might look a little out of place with being top screwed, but like Deckman22 says you might be able to hide the screws by countersinking them and denting the extrusive material downward. My deck is now 16 months old and have no regrets. But remember, there is no such thing as "maintenance free" deck. I'll use the term "less maintenance". I have had a some mildew spots pop up, but using the combination of outdoor Clorox/water mixture, Correct Deck Mildew Preventer "Deck Defender", and a deck brush...everything came right out. Now, CorrectDeck has what they call "SafeGuard" an antimicrobial coating built right into the boards. This might leave you with even less cleaning. My deck cleaning took only 30 minutes twice a year, but beats hours/days of staining or preserving.
Another note: I went 12" OC with joists, you may choose this option over the 16" just to minimize bounce. I am not aware of bounce at 16" but at 12", I feel like I'm walking on concrete...hence, I overbuilt my deck. (What that means is a few extra joists and several more clip which aren't free...ouch!) Very - Very solid deck surface, and also agree with bsmhs in that CorrectDeck is very hard board, although it routers and cuts very easily. CorrectDeck is a little pricey, so be prepared for sticker shock.
I'm starting my front porch next spring. I'll be using CorrectDeck once again.
A gallon of good deck stain $30.00 per gallon, hours of labor - $$, CorrectDeck at $2.15 ln ft = Priceless.
Where did you get CorrectDeck for $2.19 lf? The closest place to me has it at $2.49 lf.
I have 1880 square feet of covered porches made up of four 47X10 elevated decks. Any idea what total cost would be installed based on that information?
Three years ago I built a deck using Correct Deck with hidden fasteners. Color is cedar. The first year, I cleaned it twice using the javex/water ratio recommended by CorrectDeck. The second year, the mould re-appeared more quickly and I had to clean the deck every four weeks or so. I called CorrectDeck and they mailed me three bottles of the DeckDefender product. There was a slight improvement using the product but the deck had to be cleaned frequently. The third year, the mould problem was so severe that I had to clean the deck every week which is unrealistic. Now the mould has stained the deck and my deck is a disaster. I have been in touch with the local representative who's response is very, very slow. He doesn't return calls, I have to keep calling until he answers his phone. I know some people who built their decks using Trex and they had never cleaned their deck. One Trex deck I went to see a couple of months ago was five years old and had never been cleaned and looked great. I will be contacting the president of CorrectDeck to see if I can get any better response. At this point my deck needs to be replaced. I am hoping that this message saves someone else from a very frustrating experience.
Its a strange deal with composite,some of it breeds mold real bad,some dont, with trex it got so bad they are still paying off the class action. Mabey its a batch problem that is not being able to make all the stuff the same, hard to say. One thing latley most all the composite guys ,execpt timber tech T&G, want 12'' on center joists and two sister joists along side to hold any butt joints. Its a whole lot less trouble to use ipe and just let it go silver. John
The Correct Deck President has posted in this forum in the past. If you look in the archive you can find his posts and an email.
I had a BIG problem with correctdeck. (correct deck) I built a 12x20 foot deck that was louder than a fog horn. It made my house vibrate. Check out the site I made documenting it.
Jeremy .. thanks for your post and link. I live in a 120 mph wind zone on a mountainside near water. Yikes. Correctdeck is off the list!
I am currently having an 880 sq. ft. correct deck installed in my back yard. They do make several different series of this product of which I had the latest version installed. I guess they call it their CX brand. It is slightly glossier then it's predecessor, but is supposed to be highly stain resistant and less susceptible to mold. The deck is made with two levels, the bottom one is Cedar and the upper one is Mahogany. I also used the hidden fasteners but they where screwed in with stainless steel screws. IÂve actually done some of the work on the deck myself due to the fact that the contractor is taking his sweet time, and canÂt quite phantom my description of what I wanted. I did mess up on one board, which was actually near the middle. Removing the board and replacing it was not too bad. I just unscrewed the screws and slid it out. I did encounter a little resistance; so I screwed a block on top of it and hit it with a hammer to get it too move. Overall, I am very pleased with the appearance of the decking material. Only time will tell.
Rudy - if you get a chance see if you can post some pics or link to some pics. We're doing a new deck next summer and I'm trying to decide what to use. Narrowed it down to a couple of different composites or ipe or cumaru. I like the hardness of correctdeck but as you probably have seen there are some horror stories about all brands of composites. I'd be interested in seeing how the CX product holds up.
Chlorine Bleach or Sodium Hypochlorite (active ingredient in Chlorine Bleach) based deck cleaners that the uneducated recommend may appear to quickly remove mildew (white in color) and mold (black and other colors) fungus from Composite Decking. Nothing could be farther from the truth.
The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) and the Occupational Safety & Health Administration (OSHA) DO NOT RECOMMEND Chlorine Bleach for Mold (Mildew is a species of Mold) remediation on porous surfaces such as Trex and other composite decking.
The reason for this is that Chlorine Bleach does not remove or kill the roots (mycelium) of the fungus, but actually waters them. A few weeks after you have cleaned a deck with chlorine bleach or sodium hypochlorite based products you will notice the mildew or other mold fungus growing back in greater numbers, especially after additional moisture comes into contact with the deck. It will make the problem worse and harder to remove the next time the composite surface becomes unsightly.
In addition, Chlorine Bleach products reek havoc on the rest of the deck structure shortening the life of the entire structure. It is highly corrosive to any metal including structural connectors or fasteners (screws) holding the deck together. It shortens the life of the pressure treated lumber supporting the deck. This could lead to liability issues for the owner of the property and any company who recommends its use.
PRODUCTS THAT CONTAIN SODIUM HYPOCHLORITE ARE ENVIRONMENTALLY DESTRUCTIVE. It is shocking that Correct Deck and other composite manufacturers do not follow the recommendations of the EPA or OSHA and recommend one of the most TOXIC chemicals known to this earth.
I am planning to replace the decking on an existing deck and very interested in CorrectDeck CX. I got samples of Timbertech, Fiberon, Trex, and Correctdeck CX. It seems the CX is most scratch and Stain resistent. Just don't like the glossy colors that they have. Just looking for inputs on the CX line.
the CX is good stuff, and the gloss seems to tone down a bit as it weathers.
The gloss tones down a lot. We put the gray CX down about a month ago and it already has dulled quite a bit (phew!)
I find it hard to believe that the guy who had a howling deck when the wind blew was correctly diagnosing the problem. I can't see how the type of plank would make the difference in the noise. We live near the coast and get lots of wind, and the deck refuses to make ghostly noises. I have a feeling it was his understructure.
As to mold, hopefully the CX will make the difference. We have a smaller redwood deck off another part of the house, and it's full of white mold. The CX does not appear to absorb water, and washes easily, including the orange stain that Eucalyptus leaves leave.
My husband's doing the surface since the understructure cost so much. He used the hidden fasteners with the SS screws aready inserted in the clips. It went down easily, with our son's help, and he's no carpenter. We're going to use aluminum balusters (deckrailsolutions.com) with the Correct Deck CX posts and their dimensional lumber for railings. I'll post pix when it's done.
If you ever do need to replace a board with the screw down clip systems like CorrectDeck's Fastenator, it's really not that hard - you just back the screws out of the clips on each side, and slip the new board in from above. It's nice to have a helper, and it can be a bit of a trick to lift things just right and let it drop back down so the clips are in place, but it's not that hard (and easier than replacing a screwed-down board imo).
Anyone who is considering using CorrectDeck should look at the Bob Vila website to see the numerous unhappy customers. This company has the WORST customer service I have ever seen. Many of those of us who bought the original CD material have had disgusting mold (I'm talking about literally COVERED in black mold) and fading problems. The company does nothing, other than recommend additonal cleaners that doesn't work. They have replaced nothing, returned no money, given no satisfaction to any of the numerous customers who have had problems. One of their reps told us the other day, when we requested that they replace the old material with their CX that the CX has its problems too. I don't know if he was just saying that to discourage us or if it's true, but who would want to do business with such dishonest, dishonorable people? Spend your money more wisely.
I like the Fiberon products and I also like Azek Deck (formerly ProCell). Azek/Procell is not a wood flour composite, but 100% synthetic as I understand it. Fiberon is much more traditional composite. I liked the color choice of the Fiberon and the hidden fastener system and most importantly, my contractor is most familiar and comfortable with Fiberon and gave me a better price using it. I will say, one thing that sold me on the Fiberon is their customer service and their competitors lack of service. The Fiberon people were speedy sending samples and responding to e-mail questions while the others were far less helpful. That might not be the MOST important factor, but it helps. If I were doing the project myself and happy with a lighter color, I would strongly consider the Azek/Procell, which looks like painted wood. Evergrain is a nice product too, though I don't believe it's reversible.
Our local lumber yard has stopped supplying CorrectDeck because of numerous complaints(mold) and a lack of support from the company.
My cousin and I are getting ready to install a deck off a second floor house/garage. It is 20x40(roughly) with 16oc spacing. We were getting ready to use EON decking, but we caught wind of a lot of static electricity. Has anyone had this issue with any other decking. We are currently looking at the Correct Deck CX.
Any info well be greatly appreciated.
CorrectDeck CX is very good stuff, and it does not build up static electricity. Good choice. Which way will the boards run, the 20' way or the 40' way? If it's the 20' way you could have a seamless deck, which is a nice look.
We are diffently running the 20' for the seemless look. We are still hashing out what product to use. We are actually looking at the Composatron by Premier
Look up AZEK deck lighter colors, but ease of installation and low maintenance...no scratching, staining, or mold issues that you would have with a wood composite.
We recently finished building our dream home in NW Wyoming which included a110' long x 14' wide x 11' high elevated deck on the east side of the house that's 140'+ long. We used Trex grooved deckboards ( 225 16 footers ). Along with Trex hidden fasteners. Just the deckboards, fasteners, and labor to install costs $22,000. It's a beautiful deck but we have one problem,it howls when the Wyoming wind blows 15 -22 miles per hour, which is a lot. After researching this extensively, we believe that this is caused by grooved deckboards and the elevation of the deck. You had a post 8 years from Jeremy in 2006 which had the same problem. We have contacted Trex and they are saying that the problem is site specific and isn't related to grooved deckboards or hidden fasteners, therefore can't aissist in materials or labor for fixing this problem. My family moved in to the new home the 1st of Aug. with our master bedroom right inside the howling fog horn sound that lasts 3-6 seconds but repeating over and over again throughout the night and day.It actually has a harmonic vibration on the deck and even inside our home. My wife says it's unbearable and cannot sleep those windy nights, it's driving us nuts. Going underneath the deck and sticking your head up between the 16" spaced joists during the howling is deafening. We believe the fix is replacing the entire deck with non grooved deckboards and screwing it down.unfortunately with no help from Trex that's going to cost another $13,000,we paid an extra $4000 to have Trex's latest and greatest hidden fastener system hiding the screw heads. If you or any of your members have any ideas for us, please reply back..We've got to fix and eliminate this nightmare, so we can enjoy our new home and save our marriage. PS I did try to e-mail. Jeremy but haven't had a reply as of today.Thanks again and please help.
Re CorrectDeck: I failed to put a Subject of Posting on yesterday's post, could you please add the above. Also would you for forward my post to Jeremy from March 10, 2006 if possible.