is it possible to wrap wrought iron porch columns?

jpherronSeptember 14, 2006

I have a house built in the late 60s with wrought-iron porch columns for the porch that covers most of the front of the house (which is somewhere between a bungalow, a farmhouse, and cape style).

I'd like to replace the columns, but they are somehow attached to the beam at the front of the front porch, since the square tubing extends up past the aluminum wrap into the beam.

I thought I could wrap the existing wrought iron rather than try to remove them, but if I made square columns this way, I'd end up with something like 11" x11" columns, which is probably too large (the porch itself is about 6' x 50').

Would it look odd to have rectangular rather than square columns? I'm thinking of something like 7" x11". Any opinions?

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srercrcr

My opinion....I'd try to find a way to replace those columns, that 11" is a problem any way you do it, and IMO those columns are outdated....unless they come back!

    Bookmark   September 15, 2006 at 5:20AM
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brickeyee

If they are decorative you can simply cut them of flush.
A Sawzall with a metal cutting blade should make short work of them.

    Bookmark   September 15, 2006 at 7:16PM
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vegabonds

Try making them 8 sided that way they will not look so big but still do the job. On the other hand the sawsall idea and a replacement with columns that are more to your taste and size is good and sound. Just key the new ones into the beam and away you go. Just remember that if you cover the old beams you will have the devil to pay and no pitch hot when it comes to controling the rust under that wooden wrap a round. And remember what ever you do IT WILL RUST in there and most likely start the wood roting from the inside out ( its called nail sickness in boat building).

    Bookmark   September 17, 2006 at 6:41AM
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brickeyee

As I take a break from cutting away the bottom 3 inches of fourteen 8x8 hollow wooden columns that rested directly on a concrete slab...

Do not forget to space wood up off the concrete with metal or plastic.
I use pieces of 2x cut to just fit inside the columns with PVC pip standoffs (3/4 in x 1.5 inches long) epoxied into holes bored 1/2 inch deep into the bottom piece of 2x.
A piece of 2 inch aluminum angle 2-3 inches long is then fastened to the concrete with plastic anchors and stainless screws with a small piece of EPDM to keep the aluminum off the concrete. The tab is under the column so it does not show.
The vertical tab is then fastened to the 2x stack with a couple more stainless screws.
The standoff and anchor are hidden behind the bottom detailing made from pressure treated wood and held off the concrete by about 1/4 inch (does not show with 5/4 wood).
Paint all sides of the trim (and treat the end grain with Minwax wood hardener before painting) to try and preserve it. I typically bevel the ends, nail them together and to the column with stainless finish nails, fill the nail holes, and then apply another coat of paint to seal the joints.
5/4 deck planking looks good if you trim enough off each edge to eliminate the round over.

    Bookmark   September 17, 2006 at 5:53PM
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srercrcr

I have 6 X 6 cedar posts on the concrete, I caulked the edge....no problems to report for ten years now.

    Bookmark   September 17, 2006 at 8:04PM
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brickeyee

They will rot eventually if exposed to the weather.
Even PT should be held off and many brakets are avalbale for this.
Brackets for hollow columns seem to be few and far between.
I considered ordering brackets for solod and letting them bear on the wood plugs, but it was a special order and I was tired of looking. It only took about an hour to drill four holes in each plug and glue in the pipe.

    Bookmark   September 17, 2006 at 9:45PM
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