How to remove dried adhesive from unfinished wood floors?

juddgirl2April 20, 2010

This is my third try posting so sorry if it's a duplicate. My computer keeps closing the window (stupid Vista operating system).

We're just finishing the install of our unfinished Carlisle hardwood floors, which are glued to a concrete slab (with moisture barrier between concrete and adhesive). Now we're getting ready to stain.

I had read horror stories of stain not taking over undiscovered adhesive and had planned to wipe down entire floor with mineral spirits to remove any obscure glue splatters right before staining. Unfortunately, I waited until long after we installed the first three rows to read the adhesive fine print and discovered it's only removable with mineral spirits before it cures.

We've always been very careful and I've been cleaning as we go since then but I'm afraid the stain won't take for dried glue on that first run (which is in the most conspicuous location in the house!). There are a few smudges and an area where glue came up between the end pieces, which was weighted down overnight.

I've tried Goof Off and sanding for some dried glue on a sample board but neither seems to work that great and those sections still aren't taking the stain very well. I'd rather not sand too much because these floors aren't supposed to be be extremely smooth.

I'll post on flooring also but any suggestions from the decorating/remodeling experts here?

Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

I forgot to also ask about shoe scuff marks. We've been careful to lay down paper and not walk too much on the floors but there are some dirt/scuff marks in places that won't come up with mineral spirits.

Do these marks show through a medium to dark brown stain? Is sanding my only option?

    Bookmark   April 20, 2010 at 2:05PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

You might want to cross post this on the Flooring forum.

Here is a link that might be useful: Flooring forum

    Bookmark   April 20, 2010 at 5:16PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

I am sure if you called Carlisle they will tell you what you can do. Wonderful company to work with.

    Bookmark   April 20, 2010 at 6:51PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

I was going to suggest calling Carlisle too. Demifloyd used them, and they had problems with a few things - she would say call them also.

    Bookmark   April 20, 2010 at 8:01PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

Thanks everyone. I did cross-post on Flooring and we called Carlisle right when we discovered the problem. They do have excellent customer service but we just were told to experiment with different methods - sanding, scraping, etc.

So far, our attempts at sanding and using solvents must not be removing all of the residue b/c I those areas on the sample board are not taking the stain as well as the unaffected areas.

    Bookmark   April 20, 2010 at 8:47PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

I had a bathroom project a while ago, I took up the laminate and put down tile.

After the laminate came up, the whole floor was covered with the glue they use when laying it, it was like hard plastic. I had at the time researched some ways/products to use and came up with KRUD KUTTER, I know you can get it at either Home D or Lowes and I think you can even now get it at Wally world.

I used it full strength, poured it on, left it (dont remember how long) came back with a putty knife and it was all gooey and soft, came right up.. I wouldn't have believed it if I hadn't seen it with my own eyes.

another example of what I've used it for. I had a perpetual haze on my laminate wood floors (most likely from a build up of cleaning products etc. caught one cleaning lady using mop and glow on it, ugh) anyway, it would never stay shiny and clean looking. I had tried several things and finally tried the KK, again, full stength but I didn't leave it very long. came back with a plastic spatula/turner and literally scarped off a yellow film. It did not appear to hurt my floors, and the haze was forever gone, (now I only use vinegar and water).

Might be worth a try? Well, I dont know if it can hurt to try it,

Disclaimer: I have no affiliation with this product and have no information on how it might work or affect your floors :)

I think it's a great product with many uses and just thought I'd mention it.

    Bookmark   April 20, 2010 at 9:15PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

Maybe some heat like from a blow dryer might soften it a little so the mineral spirits or goo gone can penetrate it before scraping. Just a thought.

    Bookmark   April 20, 2010 at 9:41PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

I don't know if it leaves a residue that would affect a new finish, but what about those Magic Erasers? They seem to take everything off.

    Bookmark   April 21, 2010 at 12:47PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

I try posting on the Woodworking Forum since the folks over there are often working with unfinished wood. I'd also talk to some cabinetmakers and see what they suggest.

I don't think you want to sand any parts since any sanded areas are going to take the stain differently than the rest of the flooring.
Also, certain cleaners (goo-gone & citrus) can have oils in them so you definitely don't want to use those.

You may end up sanding the whole floor once it's installed.......... :^(

    Bookmark   April 21, 2010 at 1:36PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

I've never heard of an unfinished flooring that isn't sanded in place before finishing. I have laid some very-closely machined T&G flooring (heart pine from Mountain Lumber) that installed so flat you could have _almost_ finished w/o sanding, but still, ?
There are always high spot and boards that don't lay down perfectly, esp. considering it's a glue-down.
I'd use a scraper, then 220 sandpaper, if that seemed to match the existing surface. Maybe just a cabinet scraper. Pick the pores clean with a needle if they have glue in them.

    Bookmark   April 21, 2010 at 6:24PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

Thank you for the suggestions. These are rustic floors and I guess milled in such a way that Carlisle recommends no final sanding before finishing.

Really wishing we ordered prefinished right about now, but we wanted the 20" widths. Most of the issues are only with the first few rows and it's our own fault we didn't clean up as we went so I really can't complain :-D Hopefully we can mitigate any errant glue marks.

    Bookmark   April 21, 2010 at 11:11PM
Sign Up to comment
More Discussions
Need Light for Kitchen Table
So, I am posting old photos of my kitchen (it has since...
Laundry room paint & would you remove the door?
Decided to askā€¦ What color would you pull from the...
Help with window treatments
Hi, we put in new living room windows, and now I need...
Hardwood floors and adjoining room, help please
We are sanding and staining the wood in our living...
Sponsored Products
Safavieh Indoor/Outdoor Area Rug: Safavieh Rugs Anatolia Light Blue/Ivory 8 ft.
Home Depot
Catalina Wool Rug
$54.99 | zulily
Contemporary Indoor/Outdoor Area Rug: Kas Rugs Rugs Soft Ikat Ivory 3 ft. 3 in.
$99.97 | Home Depot
Safavieh Handmade Heritage Treasures Light Blue/ Ivory Wool Rug (4' x 6')
Break Trail Rug 9' x 12' - INK (BLUE)
$1,299.00 | Horchow
Spock Table Lamp by Bover
$1,189.00 | Lumens
Kimberly Runner 2'3" x 8' - TAUPE/TAN
$499.00 | Horchow
Home Decorators Area Rug: Chamberlain Gold 12' x 15'
Home Depot
People viewed this after searching for:
© 2015 Houzz Inc. Houzz® The new way to design your home™