Stair Stringer - see pictures attached

sethrameshJune 5, 2010

Grateful for your suggestions on the following

1)Which is the best option of the two stringer you see in the picture? I would prefer the bigger one, donÂt mind having an extra step on the top. The issue is - only 3" of contact between the Stringer and the board.

2)If I use the longer Stringer what is the safest way to attach the Stringer to the headboard. Will the two Simpson ties you see in the picture on both side of the Stringer will do? Looks flimsy to me.

Thanks for your help. This is my first stair project and want to do it right

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In order for the stringers to move down the fasting system at the bottom has to fail. J.

    Bookmark   June 5, 2010 at 4:25PM
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I would encourage you to keep the risers the same height

You can find links to how to build stairs in the link below

Here is a link that might be useful: deck building information

    Bookmark   June 5, 2010 at 10:09PM
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As salmon said, all your risers must--by code--be the same height. You can't have a small step 2" down and then 4 more steps 7" each. And you can't have an 8" step down, followed by 3 more 7" steps. This is for safety reasons, as it confuses your muscles and you're more likely to trip. If neither of the pre-cut risers you show above can provide even spacing all the way down, then you need to either custom cut a 2x10 using the calculator salmon linked to, or use a solid 2x10 and put angle brackets in to hold up the treads, again evenly spaced.

As for the attachment method, I used corner brackets on the end stringers and joist hangers on the middle ones. I also attached each to a board at the foot of the steps. To provide more surface area to attach the stringers, I added a board below the joist to nail them to. See photo below.

I covered up all the metal with deck treads, risers, and fascia.

    Bookmark   June 6, 2010 at 7:32PM
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weedyacres: wow. looks great. Thanks you all for the great suggestions.

I bought the stringer from home depot. I measured the height and all of them have 6.75" except the bottom one which is 6". How do they sell stringers that does not meet the code? I cut the top one by 1" to be in flush with the header. So the top one measures 5.75". Guess i need to throw these and cut new ones

    Bookmark   June 6, 2010 at 11:02PM
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The chance of buying stringers that fit your project are very slim,less than drawing to a inside straight and wining. The box stores can sell any gdf thing they want.

Good to see Ya Weed, hows the bike runing.

Cut your stringers from 2 x 12. Let me take a little lookie up there... Say you have hmmm 40 '' rise the run can be whatever you want you landing on a slab right?

40'' rise, 16'' treads, 40 '' devided by 5 = 8'' not a bad rise. 16'' treads. If you drop your stringers 8'' from the frame line you need 4 treads. 4 treads will extend your stringers 64'' out from the frame. Short up the treads to 12'' 48'' from the frame line.

The conection to the frame is less important than the conection to the bottom plate make that very secure like the Weed Mon did. J.

    Bookmark   June 7, 2010 at 5:31PM
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Hey Jon Mon, happy spring! I'm not gonna let Mr. Weedy take his bike on a trip without me this year. :-)

Seth: Those HD stringers were indeed to code. If you put a 1x6 tread on top, which is actually 3/4" thick, then the bottom step is 6 3/4" from the ground level and each higher stringer, with 1x6 tread on each, is another 6 3/4" from the top of the tread below.

The problem is that if the top of your deck isn't an exact multiple of 6 3/4" from the ground, the stringers won't work because you'll have one short (or long) step. I was able to use store-bought stringers because I poured the landing slab at a height that WAS a multiple of 6 3/4".

    Bookmark   June 11, 2010 at 6:57AM
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