Choosing a diving board

cloud_swiftApril 22, 2012

Our pool is around 35 years old. We just had it replastered, but it has the original diving board. The board is a meter board. We have some concerns about it - There is a metal bar on top of the tail of the board with two bolts going into the base and the bar has some rust and is breaking down at least along the edges.

So far, no one we've talked to is willing to inspect or repair the board. The contractor that resurfaced the pool says that a residential board can't be higher than 18" above the water and can be at most 8' but I haven't been able to find a definitive statement supporting that. Our county's description of pool requirements doesn't say anything about diving board requirements.

Our pool is a T shape. The diving board is at one end of the top of the T. The top of the T is 40' long going from over 10' deep by the board to 5' near the other end. It meets the ANSI/NSPI-5 Pool type III envelope requirements. (It fails the type IV and V requirements because it's 16.5' wide rather than 18' at point B rather than 18' - maybe the requirements changed over time because the pool seems otherwise designed to met the envelope.)

So it seems that we need a new diving board but I don't know what to choose. Probably a jump board but there are multiple brands of jump board bases and boards to go on them. I haven't found any comparison of performance or durability. The pool guy mentioned something about Techni-Spring.

What should we consider in choosing a board? Any brands that are better?

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You are stuck with the base that you have because of the bolts or jig that is in the concrete. In order to change the jig you have to remove and replace the concrete. So all you can do is replace the board itself if the base is still in good shape. S.R.Smith would be the brand board I would go with. Most contractors will look at the diving well and decide if it meets code or not if they are good ones they will tell you if it meets code and if not they will walk away for liability reasons or give you other options.


Here is a link that might be useful: S. R.Smith

    Bookmark   April 22, 2012 at 9:09AM
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We were told that the stand can be replaced by sawing off the existing bolts flush to the deck and using an epoxy kit to put in new anchors. We could try some more contractors, but so far we haven't found anyone willing to work on the existing board even if the diving well is big enough. Some just don't do boards. The one doing replastering on our pool does diving boards but won't work on a meter board in a residential pool even if the envelope is okay.

Comparing the diving well to the ANSI/NSPI-5 envelope to the best of my abilities, it fails on one dimension for Type V pool (the type needed for a meter board) - the width at point B. It's fine on the dimensions for type III. That type allows an 8' or 10' jump board or a half meter board but our contractor says the most they will do in a residential pool is an 8' jump board.

    Bookmark   April 22, 2012 at 10:38AM
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S.R Smith makes a epoxy kit to do that. I might install it that way on a 6ft jump stand but I would worry about a spring board J.M.O. below is a link that may help you decide.... This is the guideline for installing board jigs on residential pools

Here is a link that might be useful: Diving board...

    Bookmark   April 22, 2012 at 2:20PM
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Inter-fab has a link to the epoxy kit on the Techni-spring steel page so it seems that they allow it.

At least the bolts for the old meter board base might be behind where the bolts would need to be for a new board base since the current board is 14' and a new board would be 6 or 8'. I just did some measurements and the middle of the current base is about 5' from the pool. The closest bolts are 4' 2" from the edge. The bolts are in a fairly tight diamond. With a 6 foot board and Techni-Spring base, the new bolt positions would be forward of the old base entirely. With an 8' board the new base might overlap the old base, but with 4 bolts in a 12" square, the new bolts wouldn't be near the old ones.

Of course, that would depend on checking the existing footing to make sure that it met the requirements.

We just took another look at our current base. It seems to be fine except for peeling paint and some very superficial rust. Cleaning it up and applying new paint looks like all it needs. The board looks like it is in fine shape too - no cracks or anything. The only part that looks structurally weak is the strap at the tail of the board.

Looking at diving board parts listings, I've found a commercial diving board mounting kit that looks like it has a strap and bolts that are the correct replacements for the strap. The dimensions and description are right. Our DIY skills seem adequate to handle the installation.

Does it sound like a bad idea for us to replace the strap and paint the base of the existing board ourselves instead of getting a new board?

I'd started to feel comfortable with the idea of replacing it with a board that is less daunting for when our grand kids start learning to dive, but our boys were all fine learning with that board.

Here is a link that might be useful:

    Bookmark   April 22, 2012 at 5:31PM
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Nope if your fine with the board you have I would go for it....

    Bookmark   April 22, 2012 at 7:41PM
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cloud swift,
Do yourself a favor if you keep the existing base. Have it powder coated and don't try to paint it yourself.

    Bookmark   April 23, 2012 at 8:19AM
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To get powder coated, the base would have to be taken to a powder coating facility right? How much is it likely to weigh?

The reason for powder coating would be a more durable finish?

    Bookmark   April 23, 2012 at 12:31PM
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The last 1 meter residential base I removed weighed at least couple hundred pounds. I can't get any closer as I had to cut it up for removal.

Given its age, I would also find it unlikely to have been bonded.

While powder coating is a more durable finish, it can still allow the steel to rust.

Powder coating generally requires a facility with an appropriate environment and equipment that isn't normally portable.


    Bookmark   April 24, 2012 at 8:28AM
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Thanks Scott, but I don't quite understand what you mean by bonded. Do you mean electrically bonded to ground or something else? What is the implication for keeping the board versus replacing it?

I don't expect that we will powder coat the board. A couple of hundred pounds sounds about right. I found the SR Smith catalog on line and the 1 meter commercial base which looks quite similar to ours has a shipping weight of about that. The boards look pretty similar - I guess the basic design hasn't changed much in 30 years.

If we paint rather than replacing the board, we will do it on site with a paint meant for metal such as Rustoleum.

    Bookmark   April 24, 2012 at 1:20PM
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When I said bonded, I did mean electrically.

Sand it and then prime it first.


    Bookmark   April 24, 2012 at 3:58PM
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