new gas stove install

pgabhartNovember 19, 2006

We just purchased a new gas range (Five Star) which has 6 burners, a large griddle and two convection ovens. I have to run a new black pipe gas line (Natural gas, 1/2 inch), and the manual says I can use black pipe or a flexible gas connector to make the connection to the regulator. My concern is that I want the range to reach its full capacity (it cost too much not to get all the horsepower out of it that we paid for.) and the gas connector I picked up at the local Home Depot has a chart on the back showing a significant drop off in BTU/hr depending on whether a 3' or a 6' connector is used. It seems to me that the best solution in order to get as much gas as possible to the stove would be to use black pipe all the way to the regulator. Am I thinking about this correctly, or is there a good reason to use a flex connector? By the way, the stove weighs 400 pounds so it is not like we will be moving it around once we have it in place.

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Aside from being a bit more work than what most people care to do there is no reason you can't run pipe all the way. In fact, in some jurisdictions that is required.

    Bookmark   November 19, 2006 at 2:04AM
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Thanks for the help lazypup. Am I correct that the use of a flexible connector cuts down the amount of gas that gets to the stove? I don't want to make this harder than necessary. And how hard is it to line up the gas line correctly when a flexible connector is not used? Is it important to use some type of hanger on the pipe? The primary run will only be 91". How much of the length of a nipple is lost by the connections at each end?

I was thinking of using two 90 deg. elbows where the pipe comes out of the floor. Vertical line from basement would turn horizontal under the stove, and then the next elbow turns line vertical again to run up the back of the stove. This would permit me to adjust the line a little if I don't come up through the floor exactly in line with the regulator. (I don't have any leeway with the stove placement because it is going in an island and has to match existing countertops.)

    Bookmark   November 19, 2006 at 11:52AM
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I think I understand your concern, but I think you are misunderstanding the information supplied. I tried to find the specifications for your unit on the Ânet, but I canÂt.

In any case, your unit is to be supplied by a ½" gas line at a minimum of 1" of water column pressure. The regulator will reduce that to the proper amount for the whole appliance. There are at least two ranges that fit your rangeÂs description, and neither lists the total maximum input rating. You may find that on the manufacturerÂs nameplate.

You do have quite a powerhouse there. And I am unfamiliar with the unit and ranges, generally. But if the line size and pressure are specÂd.-out and you are within the capacities, your range will work to its design intents.

I see that your question derives from, "Â the gas connector I picked up at the local Home Depot has a chart on the back showing a significant drop off in BTU/hr depending on whether a 3' or a 6' connector is used." This may be the creation of a misunderstanding.

If your connector has an automatic gas safety valve between the flex and the ½" IP, the chart you reference is probably the one that tells you the limit of the appliance capacity for the length of flex used.

For example, a connector intended to hook up to ½" IP and is itself ½" tubing, might supply a dryer or a range or a gas water heater  medium demand appliances. Because the safety valve is sensing that a massive gas leak may have occurred at the end of the connector, due to breakage or disconnection while the line stop is open, its sensitivity includes the actual length of line between it and the regulator.

Laws and the gas code limit this kind of connection to 6 feet. So if you use a 6 foot connector, the safety valve will be tripped at some BTU/H rating different than one that has the regulator at 3 feet. However, while this is considered Âimportant, you may find that the chart limit is already far more generous than you need.

Which translates: that if you are getting the normal flow to any of the burners, it will work for all of them. But, at some point, the whole demand of open gas valves will reach what appears to be the safety valveÂs sensing limit. Then and only then, do you need to consider a shorter flex line. (YouÂll know when the whole kabob falls off the stick.)

The safety valve will still conduct a certain amount of gas (bypass) which might power one or more burners. This gas needs to flow so that when it accumulates at the shut-off burners, its back-pressure will reset the safety valve to full flow.


    Bookmark   November 19, 2006 at 2:21PM
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I'd run the pipe up through the floor and put a cut-off there. Then run a flex connector to the range. Flex connectors come in different sizes and you should be able to find one that will suit your needs. It's not impossible but it's very difficult to hook a range up hard piped all the way.

    Bookmark   November 20, 2006 at 6:12PM
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I installed my Bluestar with 48" flex pipe by GE from HomeDepot because of old one is too short.

How can you install rigid gas pipe up to your stove? How do you tie up the fitting or move you stove out if you ever need?

My flex pipe is thick than 1/2" inlet of stove as Bluestar suggested in manual.

    Bookmark   November 21, 2006 at 12:54PM
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In many jurisdictions they require all stoves to be connected with rigid pipe the full distance.

Typically the main gas regulator on a freestanding gas range is mounted under the cooktop and the regulator has a 1/2"FIP input port. When connecting directly with rigid pipe you install a short nipple from the regulator to 1/2 of a union. The gas riser is then run up and turned 90deg horizontal into the range where the opposite 1/2 of the union is attached to the end of the stub. You slide the range in place then make final connection by connecting the union.

    Bookmark   November 22, 2006 at 10:38AM
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This is relevant here I think.

We want to add a 36" KitchenAide cook top to our new kitchen remodel. The specs call for a 3\4" rigid line for gas supply. They say one may run in to limitations if a 1\2" line is used over a long distance. I have a finished basement and the current gas line ran to the kitchen area is 1\2". It is about 70' from the meter as far as I can tell.

My research found a table that showed that a 70' 1\2" gas line flows 61 cubic feet of gas an hour which translates to 61,000 btu\h. If EVERY burner and the griddle were cranked up, the cook top would produce 56,000 btu\h.

We do have two gas fireplaces that line feeds as well, and the most I can find on them is they each create 20,000 btus\h (again if cranked all the way up).

I'm under the impression that the 1\2" line will be fine for long as we don't crank everything on the cook top all the way up at the same time the fireplaces are cranked (which would never happen).

Am I correct?

    Bookmark   September 8, 2007 at 8:45PM
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I'm replacing my old gas stove for a newer one who can install it for me????do I just call a plummer???

    Bookmark   March 9, 2011 at 1:42PM
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