Installing new tub that's 2 inchs wider-what to do with drain?

stash-hdyOctober 27, 2009

The new tub is 32 wide and the old is 30 inches wide. ItÂs in a recessed area so can't move inward to center the drain. I can get at the drain from below; the present connection to the drain is one of those rubber fittings with stainless steel clamps on each end. Is my only and best solution to cut out the old PVC and reinstall one inch forward to center on the new drain. Don't know of any fitting that I can use to move the drain over, without cutting the PVC. Is there any thing available? I will have an access door under the drain after this remodel.

Are there drain fittings like you have under a sink that can be used or does the drain need to be a solid piece.

Can I also install shutoff valves under the floor since I can get at them through the access panel? The meter shutoff is a long way from the house.

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randy427

Your best bet is to piece together PVC and FERNCO components for the p-trap and connection to the drain.
Shut-off valves, especially the 1/4 turn variety, are highly recommended where ever to have access and might want to isolate part of your water supply.

    Bookmark   October 27, 2009 at 6:35PM
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lazypup

i'm sure glad Randy is not hooking up my tub.

If your new tub is only 2 inches wider the drain will only be 1 inch from where it is now. You should be able to rotate the P-trap and make that up.

    Bookmark   October 27, 2009 at 7:58PM
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stash-hdy

The p trap is solid PVC will not rotate. I think I will cut the straight pipe and add a PVC coupler to extend out 1 inch. That way I can use the present p trap. The only thing is that the two pieces of pvc pipe in the coupler will not be touching each other, they may be 1 inch apart. Will that cause a drain problem?

    Bookmark   October 27, 2009 at 9:17PM
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brickeyee

"The p trap is solid PVC will not rotate."

Who glued up the trap?

Slip fittings are there for a reason, including being able to clean the trap/

Cut off the old trap and install one correctly.

    Bookmark   October 28, 2009 at 9:11PM
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stash-hdy

The p trap is for the tub not the sinks. Are tubs not always glued because they are usually hidden?

    Bookmark   October 28, 2009 at 10:39PM
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brickeyee

"Are tubs not always glued because they are usually hidden?"

No, there is usually an access panel that allows you to get to the tub drains and the back of the valves.

Omitting the access seems to be a decorative fad nowadays.

I have cut in many of them on newer houses.

    Bookmark   October 29, 2009 at 4:29PM
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lazypup

Traps are made with both slip joints and solid glue in style.

Code prohibits installing a slip joint type trap in a concealed location, therefore when installing a skirted tub we are required to use the glue in type unless there is a 12x12" service access panel either through an adjacent wall or up from underneath.

In this instance the proper solution would be to cut out the existing trap, then install a new glue in trap.

Traps are relatively cheap, and you should be able to purchase a new trap and a coupling for approximately the same price as a fernco coupling and you will have the job done correctly.

    Bookmark   October 29, 2009 at 7:19PM
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stash-hdy

Thanks Lazypup, I put in an access panel so I can put in a moveable trap. That will save me a lot of time ensuring I have proper alignment.

Since I have the panel I will install shutoff valves on the supply lines. Are the sharkbite shut off valves reliable. Have always soldered and transitioning to new technology is not easy.

    Bookmark   October 30, 2009 at 8:17PM
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stash-hdy

Learned a lesson, don't try to install a new tub unless your doing a complete remodel. Removing tile and backerboard makes it sound like a simple job. It's not!!

    Bookmark   November 4, 2009 at 9:02PM
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