Recommended Water Treatment

HiccaBurpSeptember 23, 2013

Need help in deciding how to treat my water.

Northern IL
6-7 people living in the house
2,400 sq ft plus full basement partially finished, full later
3 bathrooms, with a 4th in the basement once finished

Water test results:
PH 8.0
TDS 350 ppm
Hardness 136.8 ppm
Iron, Man, Cooper, etc.. ND
Sulfides *POS* not quite sure what that means?

I've had my water tested and Iron has been 1.5 ppm in other tests. My water is clear when poured.. after sitting a few hours, a hint of orange is seen. It seems to fluctuate thru-ought the year.

We also get rotten egg smell. Sometimes it's strong, sometimes barely noticeable. Actually, my water seems to fluctuate quite a bit between the seasons.

Our softener which came with the house can't handle our load and finally not really working. It's a Culligan 8" medalist.

We need a new softener. Plus I'd like to filter out the rotten egg smell and help with iron when it's more prevalent.

Aquascience which i've purchased items from in the past and had good results recommended this...

Fleck 12"x48" Oxygen Chamber System w/2510sxt
http://www.aquascience.net/oxygen-chamber-systems/index.cfm?id=881

Fleck 48,000 grain softener w/2510sxt
http://www.aquascience.net/water-softeners/index.cfm?id=646

I've also had another online retailer recommend softener with a KV 85 or something like that inside the softener, no pre filter besides my Big Blue which I already use.

What is your thoughts? What is your opinion of Aquascience?

Thank you!!

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justalurker

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This post was edited by justalurker on Mon, Sep 23, 13 at 15:39

    Bookmark   September 23, 2013 at 1:32PM
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HiccaBurp

Thanks justalurker

Well

This last test was one I sent in at Aquascience.net I've had it done before at a local lab as well as softener salesman. The iron does fluctuate, but always under 2 ppm.

The softener will be installed with 1". The current supply coming into the house is 3/4", however, I've got it setup for the supply to come in 1 1/4". When we change our well pump, we're going to bring in a new supply. The pump is from '78 when the house was built.

Rotten egg is stronger on hot.. but still prevalent in cold

I've got a 4"x10" 2501 filter. 25 micron outside, 1 micron inside I believe?

SFR - took 35 sec to fill up 5 gal bucket with outdoor spigot which is straight form the well. However, the line feeding the spigot is only 1/2". Possibly better if 3/4" spigot?

Thank you!!

    Bookmark   September 23, 2013 at 2:22PM
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justalurker

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This post was edited by justalurker on Mon, Sep 23, 13 at 15:40

    Bookmark   September 23, 2013 at 3:15PM
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HiccaBurp

justalurker..

Do you have any recommendations?

Thanks!

    Bookmark   September 24, 2013 at 1:50PM
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justalurker

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This post was edited by justalurker on Thu, Sep 26, 13 at 9:58

    Bookmark   September 24, 2013 at 4:34PM
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HiccaBurp

Do you mean my post on DYI forum? I'm collecting information and making an educated purchase. I don't want to rely on only one source of information. Hence why I didn't just give Aquascience a credit card and call it a day. I need to know why something works/does not.

I would appreciate peoples input. The softener seems like it's no big deal.. 48k, 2510, 5600 or 7000 with SXT controls.

I think the bigger issue is the iron and smell?

If you'd like to give some info.. I'm all ears(eyes on screen) :)

Thanks!

    Bookmark   September 24, 2013 at 4:41PM
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justalurker

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This post was edited by justalurker on Thu, Sep 26, 13 at 10:00

    Bookmark   September 24, 2013 at 4:57PM
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HiccaBurp

Yes, I agree all the pieces should work together. It's also why laymen like myself need to research and not just go by the offering of the local Culligan man.

As for softener size, that is the first time someone brought that up. How should I be sizing my softener? What size do you recommend? How about valve?

Also, the people I spoke to about my system did say the softener can handle my iron load. However, throw in sulfur smell and that's when a separate system is usually recommended with the added advantage of Iron/manganese being filter as well. So my question is if the softener handles the iron.. what do we do about the sulfur smell?

Thanks justalurker!

    Bookmark   September 24, 2013 at 5:28PM
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justalurker

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This post was edited by justalurker on Thu, Sep 26, 13 at 10:01

    Bookmark   September 24, 2013 at 5:41PM
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HiccaBurp

I don't want to bother you, but you're bringing up questions for me. I understand we shouldn't be guessing. I did get a test that I thought was sufficient. I might be wrong? I've had tests done by paid for labs in the area and the results come about similar. I also don't want to keep wasting time while my family has hard water to deal with.

As for sulfur.. what are the different causes? It's not my hot water heater since it is prevalent in cold unfiltered water as well. How do I go about finding out?

I'm not sure why you're taking it personally(it seems) that I've solicited info from multiple sources? I'm a General Contractor and I welcome clients getting bids and information from other GC's. I believe that is conducive to a healthy conversation and ultimately better outcomes.

I hope you can lead me in the correct path. Thank you!

    Bookmark   September 24, 2013 at 6:02PM
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HiccaBurp

Fyi.. Aquasana did recommend a 32,000 grain unit. Now that I've searched some more.. I'm finding out what your talking about(I think) in softener efficiency. Bigger is not always better!!

    Bookmark   September 24, 2013 at 6:11PM
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justalurker

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This post was edited by justalurker on Thu, Sep 26, 13 at 10:03

    Bookmark   September 24, 2013 at 7:04PM
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HiccaBurp

justalurker.. wow. I came here hoping to find the best solution for my familes water needs. Yes.. the "how" with the backing of the "why". You seem very passionate about water conditioning and I appreciate that. I never said anything insulting and only asked for help. I would hope you would.

As for insinuating my GC abilities.. you should find out what I do and what my abilities are. Most of my work is commercial work in and around the City of Chicago. Every job i've done relies on Lake Michigan water and most people find it acceptable from the tap. The only water conditioning done has been on restaurants we've built. This is usually a contract with the client and EcoLab(there are others, but they are the biggest). They supply water conditioning, cleaning agents, sanitizing, etc.. on a contractual basis with the client.. post GC work. So to answer your question, I've NEVER told anyone to just go buy a "Sears Softener".

I also grew up in Chicago and suburbs and never had well water. We moved far away as possible to raise our kids. Hence this being our first home with well water and my lack of experience. So again, if would be all eyes open to the screen if you'd help me out. Or ears if you'd like to call me and discuss?

Up to you.. thanks!

    Bookmark   September 25, 2013 at 2:24PM
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jcalhoun

Sulfur smell will be caused by natural sulfur deposits in the Earth leaching into the ground water. It can also be caused by hydrogen sulfide or by iron bacteria. The only remedy for sulfur is to drill a deeper well.

Sulfur water tends to be soft so unless your water also has a high calcium content to make it hard I'm not sure you need a softner. Maybe just filters?

    Bookmark   October 2, 2013 at 6:22AM
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jcalhoun

Water systems use aeration to remove sulfides and make iron & manganese easier to filter. Not sure how feasible that would be on a house system.

After rereading your post I see you water is rather hard so a filter and softner is probably in order.

    Bookmark   October 2, 2013 at 6:27AM
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