Is this Crown plan going to look stupid?

quiltgirlMarch 23, 2013

Okay here are the parameters of the kitchen and the issue:
The ceilings are Cathedral. The side walls are 9' 1 3/4" high. I want the cabinets to go 9' high with the crown on top of that. That is not a problem. The problem lies in tying in the crown around the corner pantry. The walls on the corner pantry are 3" higher than the side walls. The Crown is: 3/4" wide bullnose with 5" riser board on top with 5" cove crown on top of that. Originally the riser would be set on or even with the front of the cabinets. In order to go around the corner and tie in with the pantry walls, the cabinet guy is saying that the bull nose will have to be exposed from underneath 1 1/2" with the riser sitting on it in front of the cabinets. So in other words, when you look up, you will see 1 1/2" of the bottom of the bullnose piece with the riser board and crown in front of the cabinets instead of even with them. See diagram below. Is that going to look stupid? What are my other choices without having to lower the cabinets?

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KentWhitten

I just installed a kitchen that had a similar molding detail and it looked great. Are your cabinet doors overlay or inset? The flat vertical piece was in line with the face of the cabinet doors and the bullnose piece extended about that much.

    Bookmark   March 23, 2013 at 1:48PM
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madeyna

The only thing I can think of is to add another smaller peice of cove molding right under the bull nosed so it looks like the molding has been fitted on that side not just sitting on top of the cab. It won,t match the other side perfectly but it sounds like no matter what it won,t be a perfect match with the other end of the run of crown anyway.

    Bookmark   March 23, 2013 at 1:49PM
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jakuvall

The overhang only is an issue if you are doing full overlay (are you??). If that is the case, and you want the exposure to be the same for the bullnose on the side as it is on the front then- the miter is moved over. SImple, instead of cutting the miter based on the cabinet box it gets layed out based on the exposure, how much it protrudes from the door. That moves the corner of the miter over away from the side. This still looks fine on full overlay as you have even exposure and the front point of the miter is still past the corner. It is just a little hard to figure out in the field but have done it numerous times.

I think you have a larger problem with the crown running into the cathedral ceiling. Based on what you say the bullnose and a small portion of the mounting plate remains vertical, the rest of the mounting plate and the end of the crown need to be cut on an angle and end in the ceiling. Sounds odd to me.

The steeper the ceiling the better ...if you have say a 612 roof (pretty steep) and your total molding stack is 9 3/4" then the top of your crown will be hitting the ceiling 8" from the back of the cabinet. Lower the slope and it moves further to the front of the cabinet quickly.

    Bookmark   March 23, 2013 at 2:08PM
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quiltgirl

KentWitten, my doors are inset so is a little different than your picture. Your cabinet detail is beautiful! Thank you for the photo!

Jakuval, there is 21+ inches over the front edge of my upper (inset) cabinets before you hit the ceiling. The crown will be deadheading into a flat wall and not the ceiling line. Maybe the picture below will show it better than I can explain it. The center wall with the window is the "cathedral" wall and is about 16' to the peak. I do not have upper cabinets on that wall. ( I should mention that my uppers are 15" deep and the base cabinets are 27" deep if that makes any difference.) The issue with the crown detail is in continuing it around the pantry walls which are 3" higher than the stove wall and keeping the crown detail flowing from one wall to the other around this pantry. Unfortunately I am not a kitchen designer or a carpenter, so it is all Greek to me.

    Bookmark   March 23, 2013 at 7:11PM
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jakuvall

height of each wall?
pantry-9' 4+", fridge9'-1+", window- double cathedral?goes from 9'-1+" to 16', sink 9'-1+"? Yes?
1-1/2" overhang is a lot for inset- too much IMO

This post was edited by jakuvall on Sat, Mar 23, 13 at 20:03

    Bookmark   March 23, 2013 at 7:17PM
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quiltgirl

The room is 16' 4" wide. The stove wall is 13' 5" to pantry wall. Sink wall is 12' 10". Stove wall and sink wall are 109.75" Center wall is 16' to the peak. Fridge is 80" high and is Liebherr 36" french door model. Pantry walls are 112.25" tall. Pantry is 3' 5" by 5' inside measurements. Window over sink is 72" wide and 55 1/2" from top of trim to window ledge.and the other is 88" wide. Below is cathedral wall but cabinets are in a different configuration than what is shown.

So if 1 1/2" is too much, how do I rectify this situation without dropping the cabinets down?

    Bookmark   March 23, 2013 at 8:33PM
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jakuvall

Understand most heights, not clear on why pantry is higher or why it doesn't go to cieling. Sounds like this is well along and you have someone who is decent. Tell them what you want to achieve and let them solve it.
You have too many variable for anything else imem the exposure of the bullnose is determined at the windows?

Would suggest that the riser going along the pantry wall be made thinner to allow less protrusion. Gets finicky in corner where it meets the cabinet crown but doable. Minimizes protrusion needed of bullnose- if 1-1/2 was needed a 3/8 thick riser makes it 1-1/8.

    Bookmark   March 24, 2013 at 9:07AM
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quiltgirl

Jakuval, there is an open space on top of the pantry which one could display some pottery or whatever. I don't know why those three walls are higher, but they are. The cabinet maker is a Mennonite man and I think he is having a problem just like you said, in the corner where it meets the cabinet crown. He is frustrated and says he is spending too much time on this so what do I want him to do? Well HELLO! I am not a carpenter! Why is this my problem? (Sorry, just venting here!)

I like your suggestion of planing the riser board down to a thinner dimension. At least that would eliminate some of that bullnose overhanging the cabinets. You would think he would have thought of that, but it was late Friday afternoon and maybe he was just too tired to think at that point. He wants to start the cabinets Tuesday, so need to figure this out before tomorrow or put my kitchen on hold and let him start another job. However, that puts me out another couple of months.

Thanks for all your help! I really appreciate it!

    Bookmark   March 24, 2013 at 3:33PM
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quiltgirl

Jakuval, I am just looking at this corner where the cabinets end and the crown detail goes around the pantry. My cabinets are 27" deep and the side wall of the pantry into which the cabinets dead end is 27" deep. The crown sets on the front edge of the cabinets, so the crown goes around an outside corner. I do not understand why that is a problem. What am I missing here?

    Bookmark   March 24, 2013 at 6:29PM
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jakuvall

That IS the problem and why your guy is having to stick the bullnose out further.
You said the riser is supposed to be on the same plain as the face of the cabinets. If they meet the pantry wall flush then that puts the face of the riser flush with the face of the wall IOW embedded into the wall!!!
Thin riser, determin minimum acceptable projection, duplicate that on the cabinets. But if molding is already on the cabinets you can't. This is designer error- not installer.

    Bookmark   March 24, 2013 at 7:32PM
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quiltgirl

Cabinets are not made yet, so no molding either.

Thanks for explaining that! Sorry for being so dense. Now I understand it! He was going to use a 1 x 5 for the riser. I will ask him to use the thinnest riser he can to minimize the projection of the bullnose. Thanks again!

    Bookmark   March 24, 2013 at 9:38PM
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