I am cross posting on Flooring- but thought I would see if anyone has pics of an Osmo Polyx finish floor. I have red oak, which I would like to keep the same color it is unfinished. Anyone have pics?
I have great osmo pictures! ... on old growth fir. Are you still interested?
Okey doke. So here we go:
It's one before and one after (darker is after of course). The darker is RIGHT after we applied it so it's a little darker than it turned out.
Then there are too where we had done half the room and not yet the other half.
Here is a link that might be useful: My osmo floors
amberley, don't know if this helps, but the guy that did our floors (Rick at Colonial Plank Floors) mostly uses the osmo oil. (we opted for the poly) but here is his photo gallery. all the pics that say "natural oil finish" is osmo
Colonial Plank floors
Here is a link that might be useful: Colonial Plank Floors
Fabulous! That is exactly what I want! I have lots of questions, especially since you DIYed the floors. Your fir color looks very similar to my red oak, and the change in color looks pretty minimal, which is good!
One of the main reasons I am choosing this over Waterlox is the smell, and also the dry time. How soon after the first coat did you recoat? How soon were you able to walk on the second coat, and then move furniture back in? We have 2 kids and an active 1 year old lab. When do you think it would be "safe"? How easy did you find the application process? Did you do it by hand or did you use the Osmo brush?
I am hoping to do half of the floor (kitchen and DR) and then do the other half (LR and hall) the following week.
momof3kids- WOW! That was helpful! I am DYING over those pub black floors. I am filing that away for "someday"- I absolutely LOVE those floors. Love that checker board too!
Thanks So much!
uh, I tell you... I was really tempted with those pub black floors! If I had the right house, and a lot of money to furnish it correctly for those floors, in a heartbeat!
Seriously. Those are so beautiful. Maybe when my kids are grown...
Here's osmo on red oak:
Both from the blog of LeBlanc Floors in Seattle, who apparently use osmo exclusively. Link below is to more red oak pictures, and their blog shows tons of other osmo examples on other types of wood.
Sounds like you're gettin' closer!
Here is a link that might be useful: leblanc floors blog
circus- great links! Thanks for letting me know about Osmo in the first place. After doing alot of research, and waffling between stain and paint, I think that this finish is going to be the best one for me.
Hope morgne shimes in again about the finishing process!
I am just dropping a note to say I'm on my way to work now but we had a SUPER EASY time refinishing the floor and I'd never go back to using something else now.
I'll take the time to do a good sized post about it this afternoon as soon as I get back.
OKAY! I'm home. Lol. SO. The osmo. Here we go:
1) THE MONEY: Our floor DRANK the osmo. It's coverage varies wildly and apparently old, dry wood just acts like a sponge. I would suggest figuring out the amount you need and then at least doubling it to get a better figure if budget is a concern at all.
2) THE ACCESSORIES: The people who make osmo also have brushes and rags and yada yada yada. We bought zero accessories. We were doing so little square footage at a time, a couple hundred feet here and a couple hundred feet there, so we just used the old kitchen towels we were throwing away at the end of the remodel anyway.
3)THE WOOD: We pulled up old growth fir from our 1910 house and then used a planer to remove the paint from it. So it was extremely dry to begin with and already aclimated to the house and weather.
4)THE PREPARATION: We laid the newly planed wood down and then right before applying the osmo we ran over it with a only just damp rag to pull up any dust that had settled in the room. That was a good idea because we pulled up a lot of dust. The trick was to have the rag damp enough to hold the dust but not damp enough to get the floor wet.
4)APPLICATION: We used the osmo the same way we would oil a piece of furniture. The two of us started in the corner farthest from the door and one person had the container and wet rag other had a dry rag. The first person started moving forward doing about a 3x3 foot section at a time on their hands and knees. After about 5 minutes the dry guy comes along behind and just literally rubs the oil both in and off. The important bit is that the wet is very wet and the dry is very dry. You slop it on and then ALL of it has to come off. Just like a stain. It probably took about... an hour to do each room that we've done. And your back hurts and your knees ache and you think... I shoulda bought the brushes. Except I'm glad we didn't because it turned out SO well.
5)WAITING: We followed the instructions exactly. As I remember it we did coat one on day one and coat two on day three and then waited 7 days before puting furniture on stills (like desks) and 14 more days before putting down rugs and low sitting furniture.
6) THE SMELL and such: I have alot of chemical sensitivity issues (I spent 3 days in the hospital because a landlord ignored my request and shampood the carpeting) and I slept in the room after day 7 with no issues.
7) AFTER TIME: Those pictures are from 3 years ago and the floor has mellowed into absolutely beautiful. I couldn't be happier with it. I just LOVE it. LOVE, love, LOVE. And we haven't babied it at all. Though it's technically the bedroom, we do in fact have a bed in it, it's also been the ONLY living space for the past three years. We walk around in it with our work boots straight from the construction site that is the rest of our house. We've spilt soda, soup, etc and it wipes up like a dream.
THE CAVEAT: This floor does not, and will not ever, look like poly finished flooring. It is mellow and soft and lovely. It has a few scratches and dents and they are part of the joy.
I am actually glad it doesn't look like poly! The only question I have is about the wait time after the second coat. I am planning to do the kit/DR first, which I can close off to traffic for as long as necessary. However, the living room is a different story. Our only way from the upstairs is through there, so I need to know how soon I can let my kids (and in particular the dog) use the floor. I can wait to put furniture and the rugs back in without a problem. I am sending the kids and DH to the MIL's house for the LR finishing. I was hoping to do the 1st coat on a Thursday am, second coat on a Friday am, and then have the kids back on Monday. Do you think this will work, or should I plan for a longer period of time?
Also, do you think I could do this by myself? Obviously it would take longer.
Oh, and I have plenty of cotton rags- so it sounds like I don't need to get any of the "stuff". I found a place that has 10 L for $400, which is what I figured I would get. It seems like at least double the amount I would need, and if I have any left, we do plan to do the stairs and the second floor next year. Our red oak is from 1942, except for the kitchen, which is from 1951, I don't think any of it had been sanded before. Did you sand to the recommended 100 grit?
On the timeline I think you could be okay depending on what you need from the living room. For instance, if it has the three days, Friday, Saturday and Sunday, to dry and you just need it to be walk-through good then I'd say you are definitely okay. Would you guys want to be hanging out in that area or could you party in a different part of the house that week?
I think doing it by yourself is doable. It will take twice as long but as long as you are carefull to do floor in pieces so the dry coat can be done very quickly after the wet then I think you're big problem would be sheer physical endurance. Boy I'm glad we don't handscub the floors in this modern century!!! My concern about one person is just that if you get too tired to move fast enough the osmo could start to dry... which is then a problem.
Sadly, I can give no advice on the sanding. Since we removed the wood and ran it through the planer it's very smooth already. Traditionally, or maybe normally, after the floor is laid people sand it smooth. We opted not to do that. I love to feel the edges of the wood and the grain with my toes. So we did not sand at all. LMAO. Everyone looks appalled when I say that but they are quite satisfied in my house barefoot and often comment on how cool the texture is.
Having said that, I wouldn't recommend to someone else to not sand. Our wood was literally brand new after the planer and if someone weren't doing that I think there is a possiblity that previous oils, dirts, etc would interfere with real penetration of the osmo.
Osmo is PERFECT for a test case though. After all, if you try it out on a small area ... say 10 feet? And don't like it then when you sand it would come right off. Remember that Osmo doesn't store indefinitely when opened the way paint does. So if you wouldn't put it down for six months then I'd hesitate to open the big can now.
You guys are awesome! I'm now researching OSMO finish for our kitchen flooring. I love the look. Do you think we could install cabinets on top in a week? Less (hopefully)?
I have to say absolutely not.
Osmo requires "breathing space" for almost 3 weeks after. Because it's an oil based product it's very important to allow that time so that it may evaporate properly. I would be very concerned that it would be too soon.
Having said that, do your cabinets have built in toe kicks or is the front open? If the front was open and you had fans and things to help circulate air then maybe I might chance it. You can put furniture on it as long as it doesn't inhibit air flow across the floor. It would be a real judgement call for sure. I'd look carefully at the instructions.
Somehow I missed the responses to my last post about this! Thanks morgne for your answer. I already have the floors sanded (that was done weeks ago). It was sanded to 100 grit. My DH is taking the kids on Wednesday night to my MIL's house and won't return until Sunday late afternoon. I plan to do the first coat on Thursday am, second on Friday am. If necessary, I can have the kids stay at my mom's for a day or too longer after they get back. I can leave the furniture completely off the floor as long as necessary.
I am doing it in 2 halves. The first half will be the living room/hallway. I can't do the kitchen/dr until it is cured enough to put the furniture back in, since I can't move it out of the house.
GOOD LUCK! Don't forget that you owe us pictures.
Standard cautionary tales: Make sure that you pay attention to the rag to garbage procedure, the disposal instructions that come with it when you're done. This stuff is oil based so requires you to be careful with how you handle it. It supposed to evaporate or whatever once it's dry but be careful until then.
I'm attaching a link to one of my happy DIYer sites that has an accidental blog about that type of thing.
Here is a link that might be useful: One of my favorite sites...
I missed your response to me. Thanks so much for the info! The time lag is something to consider. I wonder if I won't be able to DIY the floors after all. If we need to have our family stay at a hotel for a several days, that may negate the cost benefits. So complicated...
There is an FAQ here:
which has a link to the installation instructions.
The floor should be sanded with a grit between 100 and 150, and persons sensitive to chemicals should use nitrile gloves and a respirator with charcoal filters.
morgne- that was crazy scary stuff! I think I will be putting the rags in a big metal trash can outside.
We used linseed oil as the first finish coat on our original fir trim (it's gorgeous, really brings out the grain). I was blithely ignorant, but thankfully my guy knew about the dangers and he always insisted on laying all soaked rags out flat on the driveway to dry before disposal.
I've gotten into the habit for pretty much all oil-based finishes I use, just in case. Plus it does help dissipate the odor much faster than if you wad them up in a can.
Drumming fingers, waiting for Amberley's numerous OSMO-in-process photos.. ;-)
So here is a question. What about the OSMO PROFESSIONAL Hardwax Oil? It says you can recoat in the same day and the coverage is 700sf/liter! I couldn't find what the application process differences might be. Anyone know?
Not to throw confusion into the mix, but has anyone heard of Fiddes Hardwax Oil? It is supposed to be comparable to OSMO in performance, and can be recoated in 4 hours, and is available in different sheens.
Here is a link that might be useful: comparison
I wish I had a good answer for you. I put a ton of time into my selection but didn't have the OSMO pro as an available option. Have you located a local seller? My guess is that it's not quite the quality of the others simply because I don't know how you would speed up the evaporation process without some kind of chemical reaction???
Dear Morgne, On March 12, you gave us a fine analysis. The caveat is what's bothering me. You said there were a few scratches and dents. I am looking for a bulletproof wood 'topping' for a kitchen that gets great wear and tear. Our maple floors, 1987, are trashed.
I don't want scratches or dents no matter how soft and pretty the floor is. Am I correct that Osmo is not for me?Thanks. i hope you're still around.
I am always here it seems like. Lol.
Hmm. Some of the answers to your question are more nebulous than I'd like them to be but I'll try.
First, the floors that we have are 100 year old cvg fir. That means that the grain runs the length of the wood. Cvg fir is KNOWN for producing small splinters lengths from the edges until they wear down to smoothness. My floor does that. That means the edges look frayed and older than they would have normally. I'm pleased with that but I'm going for a look more in keeping with the time period of my house (1910). Also, Fir is a soft wood by definition. ANY finish is going to mark and marr. It simply not as hard as many others.
I think it would be fair to say that the room in question (in my case it's a bedroom 12x16) gets way, way more wear than the average kitchen. We have lived in this teeny room exclusively for the past 2 plus years. It is the only room that has flooring in it (except the kitchen which isn't truly up and running yet) and the only room with furniture. I want to be totally clear that every minute that someone is in the house but not actually working on the house they are in this one room. Once you take my king size bed into account you are looking at a 4 foot walk path around the room that has been the sole walking area for ENTIRE house. That means through the entire construction process, all the boots, tools (heck we even have lumber stacked in the corner!) etc have come through here. I live in portland oregon so those are what? 700 days of soggy clothes and muddy boots. I also work from home so 6-10 hrs of everyday I wander around in there and roll back and forth on the floors with my rubber wheeled office chair. There was also a robbery so the room was trashed entirely by people who really could not care less. They knocked things over, threw things around and in general were ... well, robbers. Last, but certainly not least, every disgusting microwave meal, every take out meal, cup o' soup and every cold sandwhich has been eaten in this room. We have spilt soda, milk, water by the gallons and there was one regrettfull incident that involved a mini catapult bought at a childs store and several boxes of various candies (okay... the incident may have involved a LOT of wine and been 4 hours long and involved some friends and a tiny dog but i'm not saying more than that).
This room is a WAR ZONE. It's difficult to properly clean since it's the only room in house with stuff and I don't have a place to clean/or use? a mop to my satisfaction. AND I THINK IT LOOKS GREAT!!!
I have a client who has shiny new flooring in her house and you immediately notice every glaring nick or scratch while these floors hide it like a pro. I am continually happy with how the floor looks and behaves.
If your interested enough I'll come home tomorrow and put real effort into getting a matching "current" picture for the "old" pictures I posted. That way you can see the time lapse. I love the product and will never, ever, EVER use anything else.
I had my floor sanding debacle amended today, and the floors look great. Day one of OSMO application is tomorrow. I will post pics for everyone to see the process.
GO AMBERLEY! I'm definitely interested in seeing your pics.
Ok, Morgne, you win-the dubious honor of the greatest possible abuse of a beautiful wood floor. It is not meant to be sarcastic in any way, possibly humorous, but that does not always appeal to all humors. Yes, your poor floor gets humannnned over and above the call of duty that any floor should sustain. My once beautiful maple floor got trashed mostly when the felt pads on the 2 ton chairs disappeared. From then on it was, "I'm moving out of this dump" Whose fault is that? This was a reasonably nice house once in the late '70's and my husband's favorite, "I'm never moving because it doesn't flood!" like it's the only Chgo house that doesn't flood. And DH(and that phrase needs some rethinking) hates the 'lines' in the floor- the lines that are between each individual board. He'd not do too well in a really old house, altho we have a 1922 crap-ola, albeit cute and well loved, beach cottage,-he blames me for. We now have $1 sf laminate thruout the beach house, not shiny-actually gorgeous. It's even impervious to truckloads of sand. Go figure.
I suppose, as of late, I have given more info than needed. Lonely, kitchen crazed, ran out of pals who'd listen, don't know. How do Plllog/Buehl, et al, keep their appearance of sanity? Where was I? Oh, yeah, Osmo.
WAR Zone!!!! Great line. You made great points. I love Waterlox, not the fumes.
Hey all- about a little more than halfway done the LR/hall and WOW does this stuff go on easily. It looks like silk. I am exhausted as I am doing this alone, but it is going to be worth it in the end I think. I will post pics tonight.
It has very similar qualities to soapstone I've decided.
Keep going! It's easy peasy if your back holds up. Just remember to keep scrubbing it back off. Wipe on, wipe off, Danielson.
I'm anxiously awaiting pictures--considering this for my bedroom.
Done! At least the first half- the LR/hall. I will wait about a week or two to do the kitchen and dr, since I have all the furniture piled up in there.
I can't believe how easy it was to apply. At it has a perfect luster finish. Perfect. I will put pics up soon- but they really don't do it justice.
morgne- thank you for all of your assistance! I used rags as well- old cloth diapers and undershirts worked REALLY well- and I would have probably used the brush method had I not heard that from you.
Oh, and the best part? I only used just under half of ONE 2.5L can for BOTH coats in the LR/hall. Since there is less SF in the kit/DR, I don't think that I will even open the other can!! So grand total for refinishing the whole first floor (pro doing sanding, me doing refinshing) will be $970. Add my hardwoods (salvage) in the kitchen and the total flooring cost FOR THE ENTIRE FIRST FLOOR is only $1190!!
Amberly! You promised us pics!!! I'm glad that it's looking good to you. The overall look changes very little from wet to dry so I'm sure you'll be happy.
The diapers were probably perfect. The only issue I ever had was how crappy my back felt at the end of the day. Lol.
Penny saved is a penny spent elsewhere, right?!
Sorry about not posting these right away- we stayed at my mom's the last 2 nights and I didn't have the driver for the memory card.
I don't really have good before pics- the floor was covered with dust- but you can see the difference in the finish color/condition in the pic of the steps (treads are old/original finish- floor below is with Osmo.
before- but dusty
sanded and unfinished
in progress closeup
Osmo floor finished with original stair finish
Most of the pics are showing much darker than in real life. The best color match to real life is pics 4-6.
They look beautiful! Great job!
Thanks Morgen! Now I need a massage....
The OSMO looks great. Silky and not glossy. You deserve a massage! (Maybe my hubby and I should start pilates now so our cores are nice and strong for the OSMO job ahead.)
What hurts the most is my hands and forearms. But SO worth it! And no rest for the weary- it is on to the kitchen/DR in a week!
Wait two days and you'll barely be able to type! Lol. And that hubby better be giving you a massage since he got to be away while you did the hardest parts!
OMG my hands hurt! You weren't kidding! For that reason I am not so much looking forward to doing the kit/dr. I tried to move 4x8 sheets of masonite last night and I could barely pick them up!
My fav thing so far- the dog walked on it 24 hours later and it looks great! No marks!!
Yikes! Sounds like you need to take a break. Great news about your dog and your floor.
I am loving this floor more and more. We have been generally walking only with socks, but the kids have forgotten a few times, and it doesn't seem to have hurt it at all.
Morgen- do you think it would be safe to put low-lying furniture in after 10 days or so? I can't do the other half of the floor until I can move the low-lying furniture into the living room. I am chomping at the bit to get the rest of this finished!
I DO think you could put in the low lying furniture then. I would still wait a few more weeks for anything like a rug or bean bag but I do think you can get it in.
I'm so glad you like it. We put our bed in place early as well as our desk and I felt okay about that as long as we heaped the blankets on top during the day time to allow air flow.
Amberley, There's an OSMO finished floor in House Beautiful (May, The Advice Issue). Looks nice. How are your floors coming along?
As an aside, there's also a painted floor (pretty bold) in This Old House this month. Like a quilt pattern, but I tend to think that a tone on tone of the same design could be quite gorgeous.
I just got that issue today in the mail and saw that!! I finished the kitchen floor today- on to the dining room tomorrow. So tired...
Get some sleep! It's so hard to keep up and keep going the next day. Be prepared and get as much rest as you can.
I decided to split up the kitchen and dining room for that exact reason. There is a natural dividing point (board running perpendicular separating the 2 spaces). I really paid for it physically after the LR side. Aside from the general soreness, my physical Lyme symptoms REALLY acted up for a about a week.
Just finished the kitchen and I am thrilled with how seamless the salvage boards in the kitchen match the original hardwoods in the rest of the space. It looks like they were alwys there.
I am SO happy I decided to clear coat with OSMO. It is really a fantastic product. I am looking to get the Top Oil to finish my butcherblock now too. Have you used the OSMO cleaning products? I was about to order those as well. Looks like I will be able to send back at least one of the cans, and maybe 2. I may be able to do two coats of 775 SF with one can!! Crazy!!
Yay! *clutches hand to heart* Amberley, you did it! I'm so proud. And I'm utterly itching to try it myself.
What gorgeous floors! Makes you want to just get down and caress them.
LOL! I know- it is like the soapstone fondling we stoners all talk about. It is SOOOOO silky.
Yea seconded! It is SO silky but I wasn't going to describe my floors that way first. Lol.
I haven't used any of the cleaning products. Thats mostly because in my littel room I just clean with a rag and water and it turns out great. In a bigger room I might try something more impressive. I can't wait to see how it all ends for you.
I am getting a couple of walnut boards planed from my local wood guy- I can't WAIT to put some OSMO on those! They will go a across the stretchers on the seating side of my island for a foot rail. I also plan to coat my wooden cabinet knobs with it (they will be stained dark walnut as well).
DH loves it so much he can't wait for this project to be finished so he can build a piece of furniture and use it on that!
Hello to everyone using and enjoying OSMO floor finish--I have a question for you re: where did you purchase your OSMO product? I live in the SE--sadly, no dealer listed on Ecohaus' website. Has anyone purchased from an out of state retailer, and would you recommend them?
Amberley: thank you so much for posting this question, your progress pics, and thanks to everyone for posting information on how-to apply, what to expect, etc. I had no idea OSMO existed until this thread and I've been following Amberley's progress. Really beautiful job!
TIA for any information re: a recommended retailer!
I got mine from ecohaus BUT I live in the same town as them so I just drove in to pick it up. I really like the people there so for what it's worth:
I got mine from Amicus Green Building Center in Kensington, MD. I live in MD, but decided not to brave DC traffic, as they sent it to me for $13 shipping (and that was 3 2.5L cans!). They were very knowledgeable and friendly. They also have a 30 return policy, which I will be taking advantage of since the coverage was so great!
Morgne and Amberly: Thank you so VERY much for responding with the info. I guess I didn't cruise Ecohaus' site properly. I found MSR pricing, but I didn't see an option for purchase. I actually checked out Amicus' site briefly this afternoon, seeing as MD is about the closest to us (GA).
I'm actually going to try the Top Oil before doing our floors. I'm in the throes of choosing countertop materials--butcher block was an easy decision for part of our kitchen. I haven't treated both sections yet (yea Top Oil!).
Thank you once again for this fantastic information! Looks like I'll be joining Amberley's fatigued muscle ranks (this summer) when we have our floors installed!
I think you actually call and place the order over the phone. LMAO! How old school is that? I think that because there's a little picture of a woman holding a phone in the upper right corner of the screen. That's actually REALLY funny because I call and tell them my order just so that I can save a little time. I wonder how many employees I've confused by doing what they thought was an online order and then requesting pick up!
I spent more time on Ecohaus' website today and sure enough, I saw the operator image and phone number (doh!). I placed my order and should see my order of Top Oil within a week. Yea! Thanks for the info!
I am ordering the Top Oil as well for our butcherblock. Can't wait to see how it turns out!
I want to use this product! your floors look beautiful.
I am worried that my flooring guy has probably never used it before and is likely to balk at the idea. Also, we are trying to match existing oak planks and run them in to the kitchen. So I am worried that after we sand that there might be a matching problem.
If we want to stain, do we need the Top Oil version?
Tarnator: The Top Oil is an Osmo product for butcher blocks. I defer to others to direct you to the proper Osmo finishing oil by name.
@ amberley and morgne: I can't wait to see how Top Oil works for our butcher block!
Poppy09, when do you think you'll get it done? I'm really excited to see if it turns out as well as the floor product.
tarnator: I think OSMO makes a stain that's meant to be used with their floor finishes. (link below) They offer tons of advice on their web site, so I'm thinking you can print that off for your floor guy.
I'm so thrilled with all the great OSMO results! I've been itching to try it forever -- highly recommended by a painter friend of mine, thus my recommendation to Amberley -- perhaps I can try it on some furniture just to see.
I'm also wondering if anyone has ever used their Park Lane outdoor deck finish ...
Here is a link that might be useful: Scroll down just a bit for all the OSMO products
Morgne: I should receive the product (early?) next week. I hope to have two sections of butcher block to treat as soon as possible, so with any luck I will take care of it by the following weekend (fingers crossed).
So we are going to use IKEA birch butcherblock, which comes pre-treated with their oil product. Do you guys think I should sand it down first, or just apply the Top Oil?
So I had to put a third coat on the kitchen, by accident. I dumped the can!! I got most of it up, slowly, with a brush, but decided that with such a small amount of floor, the spot covered about 25% of it, so I might as well recoat the whole floor!
So that backed me up a day, and I took a day off today to do some gardening chores. On to the DR tomorrow!
Amberley--we have the IKEA beech butcherblock, and I will sand the pieces before applying the Top Oil. One piece I treated already with a beeswax/mineral oil combination (about two months ago), so I may need to sand that piece a little more than the other.
At least your kitchen will be well protected! :)
I just purchased the IKEA VDE which I believe has a solid Birch top. IÂve read so many posts here about Waterlox Â how dose this Top Oil compare to that?
Amberly Â you are working so hard. IÂve really enjoyed following your adventure. Your floors look amazing! You are a true inspiration. :-)
I will take pics of the DR/kit sometime in the next few days to show you all the finished floors! I haven't finished all the painting yet though, so it is still a work in progress.
Side note- the 5 year old dumped a whole cup of water on the 5 day finished floor. NO problems. Perfect. Love. It.
Amberly, so great to hear that it's still going well and yes, I'd definitely to a complete resand of any wood that already has a finish!
Jeri, waterlox and Osmo are not really similar products at all as far as I can tell. Waterlocks is more like a paint and osmo is more like a stain. There may be different kinds that stack up more closely though.
Watching for yours too poppy!
This thread has got me so interested in using the OSMO top oil for my Boos block table top. I was getting ready to use Waterlox but everything I read here and about the OSMO has got me so excited about this option. Can anyone help me about where to purchase the TOP OIL online? Ecohaus does not show it on their website and I am not near a store. Also if anyone has used the top oil yet on a countertop I'd love to hear feedback Thanks!
If you were to use this product on a new kitchen floor, when would the cupboards be installed--after the floor treatment or before?
(The unfinished new floor will be installed before the cupboards are installed.)
I'd do before but it could be done after. I might worry a little about the toe kicks on the cabinets if they were installed already.
Don't care which anyone uses as they both sound like good products but for the record, Waterlox is nothing like a paint. It is an exceptionally durable oil-based wood finish which comes in various sheens and tinted. It's put on with a lamb's wool applicator and cures down.
As for water resistance, I Waterloxed our reclaimed chestnut oak powder room floor -- wide boards, lots of knots etc. Well, we had a clog in the sewer line and guess which room the system backed up into?
Uh huh. The powder room. Floor got soaked overnight. I had a tiny bit of cupping on one board (the other settled down after a firebrick was left on it) but the Waterlox finish is teflon. It is as perfect now as it was before -- after an overnight soaking (and yes, I disinfected).
Who even wants to tell such a story but I had amazing results with the Waterlox through a really bad issue.
I put the used rags in a large can filled with water. That helps soak out some of the stuff. Then I let them dry and let the water evaporate outside. When the rags are dry I pop them in a paper bag and burn them on a rainy day. It's not a big fire and problem solved.
Rocogirl, I was comparing waterlox to paint because it leaves a laquer or film on top of the wood as opposed to a stain which soaks into the wood. I don't know what you mean when you say it's nothing like that?
Waterlox IS an excellent product. In comparing it to paint there was no insult intended. I was just using the comparison to show that the two products, Waterlox and Osmo are not really comparible products in this case.
Waterlox is a tung oil finish. It leaves NO lacquer, NO film on a floor. It is nothing like paint and I'm sure no one meant to misstate its qualities -- though that appears to be the case.
I used Waterlox it on an antique wood floor and it looks exactly like my other 100% tung-oil finished floors except it is more durable.
When you go to both websites, the two products appear, in fact, to be similar though the Osmo uses sunflower, soybean and thistle oil, plus two hard, natural waxescarnauba (familiar in car wax and lipstick) and candelilla.
Osmo appears to have lower VOC mineral spirits and therefore, perhaps is greener.
I don't know how they actually differ in terms of VOCs (Waterlox definitely needs open windows though the smell goes away completely). Nor would it be possible to assess the long term wear of each unless they were in the same place.
I know Waterlox is very good and from the enthusiasm about the Osmo it seems to be as well.
But I do think it's important to accurately state what products are -- it's too easy to create misconceptions which I don't believe was intended.
Here is a link that might be useful: Waterlox
Okay, here we go again: These are the instructions for using waterlox on a countertop from the waterlox website: "6. After the last coat is dry, lightly sand the surface with 320 grit or 3/0 or 4/0 steel wool to smooth out the finish." If it was a stain type of application there is no finish to smooth. I'm really not trying to be argumentative but for the use in question, waterlox on a table top, there is a significant difference between that and the osmo being discussed for floors.
I say this as someone who also loves Waterlox for many uses: Waterlox is based on tung oil, but it's not actually an oil finish, since it is cooked up with solvent (phenolic resin). This changes the tung oil into an entirely different finish: a wiping varnish. Unlike a wax or oil finish (OSMO), you can build up film coats of Waterlox like any other varnish, sanding in between coats. I've done it. My bath floor has Waterlox and it's a great resilient floor finish. I've also used it on furniture. Because it has a high solvent content, it can be applied more thinly (although requires more coats) than a polyurethane -- but also smells more. (Yikes, that smell! And the low VOC version is even worse than the original.) But it is a gorgeous finish, no question.
Pure tung oil, on the other hand, which I've also used, doesn't build at all, it soaks in and if you apply too many coats, it just gets smeary and gunky. I don't think pure tung oil is used much if at all for floors; it wouldn't harden enough for any kind of wear. (We used it on some window trim to accentuate the grain.)
From the horse's mouth.
Here is a link that might be useful: also: Bob Flexner on oils and varnishes
circus -- my whole first floor (except for the Waterlox powder room floor) is 100% tung-oil finished. 4 coats. It's worn very well with no reapplication for 4 years now. It's absorbed, with a soft sheen; no gunk. We weren't living there and had fans on 24/7 for 36 hours to help the oil absorb.
My mantel, OTOH, which also is finished with tung oil (3 coats) was steel wooled in between each coat.
Perhaps my house would not meet official approval of the coatings folks (my contractor has his own very definite ideas) but one reason floors are not so often finished with tung oil these days is cost and the difficulty in finding people who know what they're doing with it. We only did the downstairs and had an upcharge for the oil.
The quote you linked above is really handy for clarification in this instance so I'll pull it in here.
I happened across your post, and would like to address your question without making this to "too much" of a commercial.
The first thing I should make clear, is that while the solids in our products are mostly tung oil, Waterlox is NOT pure tung oil, but a complete wood finish.
Oil/wax and "hard oil" finishes are very popular in Europe, and are starting to make inroads into the US market. The ones that I have seen are indeed beautiful, and are repairable, but are not easy for an amateur to apply, they need to be reapplied on a regular basis, and will water spot. They cannot be tinted, and there is no choice of sheen.
(OK, here comes the commercial)
Our products are different from those that are 100% tung oil. We basically take Tung Oil (a superior drying oil), Resin and Mineral Spirits and cook all the ingredients into a complete wood finish that gives you the look and feel of a naturally oiled wood, with the additional benefit of forming a film that is waterproof, stands up to foot traffic, and protects against household spills, and is easy for an armature to apply...If you can roll paint on a wall, you can apply Waterlox.
Complete finishing instructions can be found on our web site: http://www.waterlox.com/site/478/default.aspx
Waterlox Coatings Corp
I used Waterlox it on an antique wood floor and it looks exactly like my other 100% tung-oil finished floors except it is more durable. I stand corrected on the "film" however it's invisible.
Believe my point is more clearly made now thanks to you. (BTW that Festool drill you put me on to rocks. I'm still learning about it but what a beautiful instrument! A thousand thanks).
Excellent! Now we are all on the same page. Cool beans.
Morgne, amberley and others: After a delayed start date, I began my butcher block project today. After sanding, and sanding, and sanding...I had to keep sanding to take all the beeswax/mineral oil off the wood. I haven't applied OSMO yet--literally waiting for the dust to settle! Taking the beeswax off was a bit of a nightmare, but I want to be sure I give the OSMO the best surface to work with.
Just wanted to say I haven't forgotten about keeping up with my progress.
And buffalotina, if you are still shopping for OSMO TopOil, I purchased mine from Ecohaus in Seattle. Highly recommend them! No option for ordering online--call the number on their website. It arrived on the East Coast within two days!
Hi Poppy! I just wanted you to know I am following your progress as well. I have a BB from IKEA that I need to use either this or waterlox on. Im so confused! :-)
Good luck! Ill look forward to your progress.
poppy09: Please keep us updated on your progress with the top oil! I have it and the brushes on order. I need to sand my block too as I have mineral oil on it. Please post your experiences. Thank you!
Poppy09? Did you get it done????
I wanted to post that I successfully finished my Boos Block table with the Osmo Top Oil. It was a simple project and I love the results. It is a nice smooth satin finish, no shininess at all. It also did not change the color of the wood too much, just enhanced it. I am pleased with the top oil and it sounds like it will be easy to just lightly buff down the top and reapply if needed. Tina
Yes to all- I did finish. It just about killed me, but I did. It looks great, of course. I also used the Top oil on the IKEA butcher block, and I am thrilled with that too. We are still trying to get a piece of IKEA bb to finish the counter though. My two pieces didn't even remotely match in color, and they don't have any that do, and they don't have it on the website...sigh.
My DH wants to coat everything with OSMO. He loves it. My GC loves it too. Actually, everybody that has seen it seems to love it!!
Anyone heard of using OSMO on engineered flooring? Beech to be exact?
If your engineered flooring is unfinished Osmo will work great.
I realize this post is super old, but I just wanted to share some critical information with anyone considering Osmo on their floors. I just finished installing 2800 SF of flooring and finishing it with Osmo. I think I like the look, but the verdict is still out. It's definitely a more rustic look, so keep this in mind. I don't know if we didn't sand well enough, but the floor finish is not as even as I would have liked. Hopefully the look will grow on me.
What I wanted everyone to know is that rags soaked with Osmo will spontaneously combust!!! There's a warning label on the can, but it's not especially noticeable, and we didn't read everything on the can. Well, let me just say... our rags spontaneously caught on fire, so take the warning very seriously. We had thrown the dirty rags in the trash and about 12 am, the bags caught on fire. Luckily, the bags were in our front yard awaiting trash pickup the next morning so the house was safe. Fortunately, my neighbor's dog alerted our neighbor, who called the fire department in the middle of the night to put out the fire. The flames were 6 feet high in no time. So if you use Osmo, do not under any circumstances leave soaked rags lying around and never, ever leave them inside of your house. I just wanted to get the warning out there. I feel blessed that no further damage was done but it would have been catastrophic had we not taken out the trash and if our neighbors didn't have such an alert dog.