Plumbing Wall behind Stackable W/D: partial or full finish?

SparklingWaterMay 18, 2012

Cross post with laundry.

My laundry area is a 102" (H)" x 36" (W) x 32" (D) closet which for twenty years has served me well with two stackable W/D (a GE, then the infamous first model Maytag Neptune FL, now twelve years out and still ticking except bearings failing).

I will be replacing the Neptune soon with a new stackable SQ from which I hope to get many years of service.

We pulled the Neptune out yesterday to prepare the space (clean, prep, new paint etc). I am debating what to do with the rear closet wall. Years ago in a very cold freeze, a pipe burst and was attended to by myself immediately through basement WD water turnoff. Since then I have insulated each new pipe with rubber foam, the inter stud wall with fire rated batting 3.5 inch thick insulation, put on new gated washers, replaced stainless covered hoses every five years and changed out venting hose for lint as well as check function of outside damper twice per year.

The back closet wall is partially open where the hot and cold pipe(s) come up from below and waste venting hose rests. I left it this way so plumbers have easy access to both pipes, water return and faucets. I just changed out the washer/dryer gate faucets in the basement (not closet) to ball valve (also did the main water gate to ball valve). I'm want to ensure limited hammering- there is some since this change out of basement pipes and gate valves curiously. Might need to secure those new basement pipes tighter with brackets to wood. I'm adding Sioux Chief mini resters on both cold and hot faucets in closet: I've got the vertical space.

I believe some fire graded dry wall covering this is on point now. I would screw or nail it to studs. Does anyone know what grade is recommended or have any suggestions. The aperture is 30" h x 36" w x what ever depth of dry wall is chosen. I prefer function over form, and think a partial finish back wall which allows removal and attention if needed is better than not.

Anything I might be missing or any suggestions on my idea? I'm a KISS kind of person.

Thank you very much in advance.

Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

Plumbers et all, GW weedmiester suggested an access panel over the exposed, insulated hot and cold water pipes I mention above, and indeed Oatey makes a 6" x 9' access one which fits between typical studs.

Total vertical height of exposed pipes is 30" prior to recessed gate faucets in Oatey box. Where would you advise putting this access plumbing box? Half way of vertical height so one could work above and below or closer to the faucets if the majority of breaks occur there?

Thanks. Trying to proceed and appreciate any suggestions.

    Bookmark   May 19, 2012 at 1:29PM
Sign Up to comment
More Discussions
troubleshooting thermostatic valve for shower
troubleshooting thermostatic valve, no hot water and...
Can i have a pan put under a water heater that is aleady installed?
I dont have a pan under my water heater and i fear...
Toilet swirls, but won't flush!!
Very frustrated. The toilet seems to be ok, it gets...
Rainfresh water filter leaks from top.
I have a Rainfresh water filter. It seems to be leaking...
Inspection Hell (or why not to DIY)
Hi everyone, First time poster but long time lurker....
People viewed this after searching for:
© 2015 Houzz Inc. Houzz® The new way to design your home™