Hooking up dishwasher drain question

jk55April 3, 2012

I just had a remodel done to my kitchen. I had a peninsula built and moved the dishwasher from next to the sink over to the peninsula. The plumber (30 years experience) hooked up my dishwasher by drilling a hole through the tile down into the cellar and connected the drain hose to a 2" drain pipe which was formerly used for my washing machine before we built a laundry room on main floor 20 years ago.Hence, this pipe has not been used for 20 years. This 2" pipe connects to the main drain for the kitchen. In the meantime, right after the plumber left, the stove installer come to install my new stove. He went down into the basement to check the circuit box for the stove installation, and noticed the new plumbing for the dishwasher and proceeded to tell me that it was done incorrectly, not to code, and that I may burn out my dishwasher motor and have water siphoning up back into the dishwasher. He said that the drain hose must be hooked up 20 inches above the kitche floor to eliminate this. The plumber did not do this because did not want to drill through my new cabinets, and also said that the hose would lay inside the cabinets and may get disturbed and promote leaking. This is why he went through the floor. He said this was the easiest and most sensible what to do this since the old washer drain was already there in place and connected to the main drain/ Again, he is very experienced, I called him to tell him what the stove installer said and he said basically he was wrong and that it was done correctly and that he does jobs like this in kitchen islands all the time. He said something about there being a "trap" in the pipe downstairs. I don't know what this really meant.

So, who is correct????

Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
jakethewonderdog

There are some detailed drawings on how to connect a dishwasher drain on this site. You may want to do a search.

That said, my guess is that you aren't really in a position to challenge your plumber on your own- and without pictures, we can't really say for sure either.

What I would suggest is that you first talk to your plumber and diplomatically suggest that it wasn't done correctly without going into too much detail. Give him the opportunity to correct it before you call someone else in and bill him back for the repairs. Ask him if he would be okay with a building inspector looking at what he's done.

The other approach is to conclude that the work that was done is grossly wrong - which I suspect is case, but I can't confirm without pictures -- and that the original plumber shouldn't step foot in your home again.

    Bookmark   April 4, 2012 at 9:33AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
lazypup

On the other hand,,perhaps the stove installer proved why he is delivering appliances instead of working in the plumbing industry

    Bookmark   April 4, 2012 at 11:46AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
jakethewonderdog

I'm with you Lazypup, If I were the plumber I wouldn't want a delivery guy (or folks on the internet) second guessing my work. From the description though, it doesn't sound legit.

    Bookmark   April 4, 2012 at 2:29PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
asolo

"Give him the opportunity to correct it before you call someone else in and bill him back for the repairs. Ask him if he would be okay with a building inspector looking at what he's done."

Regret to say I agree with this. "Code" is important...for yourself and absolutely if/when you may choose to sell the property. You should have confidence all is correct....from the beginning. Understand you are not personally qualified to judge so bad place to form an opinion. Someone else will have to be brought in.

    Bookmark   April 4, 2012 at 3:56PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
brickeyee

"From the description though, it doesn't sound legit."

The stand pipe is an indirect waste.

You may be fine.

There is no way a flood in the standpipe would be able to drive water back up the drain hose as long as he did not do more than terminate the hose in the pipe (not glued, not enclosed, just stuck into the pipe).

    Bookmark   April 4, 2012 at 5:30PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
weedmeister

without reading too closely, JK, you need to make sure the drain hose is looped up high in the cabinet, if it is not already done by the DW itself. Else it could drain out on its own before the wash cycle is complete.

    Bookmark   April 5, 2012 at 3:20PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
brickeyee

"you need to make sure the drain hose is looped up high in the cabinet, "

Why?

He has an indirect waste (what an air gap creates) and unless the line is sealed to the standpipe, nothing can flow back up.

    Bookmark   April 5, 2012 at 5:20PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
lazypup

Perhaps its because the codes require both the high loop and connection to an indirect waste. And regardless of whether there is a high loop inside the machine, code still requires the drain line to be configured with a high loop.

    Bookmark   April 5, 2012 at 5:33PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
brickeyee

"code still requires the drain line to be configured with a high loop."

What code requires both?

All I remember seeing are one or the other, not both.

    Bookmark   April 6, 2012 at 9:39AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
lazypup

Instead of trying to argue the point with my, why don't you look it up in your own code?

Here it is from the State of Virginia Plumbing Code;

802.1.6 DOMESTIC DISHWASHING MACHINES
Domestic Dishwashing machines shall discharge into an airgap or air break in a standpipe or waste receptor in accordance with section 802.2, or discharge into a wye branch fitting on the tailpiece of the sink or into the dishwasher inlet connection of a food waste grinder. The waste line of a domestic dishwashing machine discharging into a sink tailpiece or food waste grinder shall connect to a deck mounted air gap or the line shall rise and be securely fastened to teh underside of the sink rim or counter.

Now for your enlightenment, a wye branch on the tailpiece or a dishwasher inlet port on a food waste grinder are both indirect waste connections.

    Bookmark   April 6, 2012 at 12:04PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
brickeyee

And the high loop is only required if the air gap is not present AND you are using a sink tailpiece.

Maybe yo did not read carefully?

A stand pipe with an air break does NOT need the high loop.

    Bookmark   April 6, 2012 at 2:21PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
lazypup

On the other hand,,if you were to really read the code you would know that the opening on a standpipe must be a minimum of 18" above the water level of the trap, and the connection at the top of a standpipe is both an air gap and a high loop

    Bookmark   April 6, 2012 at 2:38PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
davidro1

hi jk, ya gotta know what a trap is, first. Using any web search engine, go learn that it's a good thing in plumbing.

"P trap"

If the dishwasher hose goes through the floor into the basement, it might be an OK install, according to some manufacturers. Those manufacturers don't call for a high loop there. It is for situations where the P trap is above the kitchen floor.

    Bookmark   April 12, 2012 at 9:30PM
Sign Up to comment
More Discussions
Water pressue and other plumbing issues (MULTIPLE ISSUES - LONG)
I have a couple plumbing issues in my house. Some background... Approximately...
gtrshop
Septic tank and question on the "Sponge"
I have a septic tank that when last pumped out had...
big_al_41
Water Softener - calling justalurker
Hopefully you are still around. I had reached out a...
toddimt
Plumbing Kohler Ceiling Tub Filler K-922
Anyone have experience installing this laminar flow...
Logcabin1
Help with smelly well water
Just a little background. We bought a house 3 years...
cmonkey
People viewed this after searching for:
© 2015 Houzz Inc. Houzz® The new way to design your home™