Can I Cement Wet PVC?

mxyplxApril 29, 2009

I'm fixing up a watering system been in the ground 27 years about. Well I want to cement one last PVC fitting to a pipe which is dripping water. Been dripping almost 24 hours. It's buried with about 8 inches free. I mean buried!

I draind a lot out of it but that last drop just won't fall :-) Anyway I'm using Red Hot glue can I glue it with any water on it at all?

I'm thinking of trying to blow out the pipe with an air hose thru a hose bib - maybe gain a few seconds to make the connection.

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If its only a drop or two no problem. Wipe the gluing surface with a dry rag, quickly apply primer then apply glue to both the outside of the pipe and the inside of the fitting. Attach the fitting and if possible quickly rotate the fitting a bit to insure an even spread of the glue, but be sure you have the fitting properly lined in its final position before the glue begins setting.

    Bookmark   April 29, 2009 at 11:26AM
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Ron Natalie

If it's just an elbow, jam a rag into the elbow and then into the pipe, glue it, and pull the rag out.

    Bookmark   April 29, 2009 at 11:26AM
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Wouldn't the rag stick to or wipe off the glue on the inside of the L? The pipe goes into the L. Anyway its a 3 footer.

The drops are every 5 seconds - can't work that fast even with the Red Hot which has its own primer.

I shoved an air hose up the pipe and guv it an enema hoping it would delay the water for maybe 30 seconds and give me time - Nope - just more water and water also came out an open hose bib. I blew into the hose bib and again got more water. I layed that pipe in there about 1982 and can't imagine where all that water is coming from. It runs from the connection point to a hose bib thence to 2 sprinkler valves. The Bib is 1-2 feet higher than the opening. The valves are about the same level and are closed. After the initial gush it has not ceased to drip

    Bookmark   April 29, 2009 at 1:21PM
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Pack some bread in there. It will buy you some
time, and when you turn the water on, it will
wash out.

    Bookmark   April 29, 2009 at 2:03PM
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I use a shop vac to get water out of lines so I can sweat/glue them. It should give you enough time to get your work done.

    Bookmark   April 29, 2009 at 2:05PM
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Ron Natalie

Wouldn't the rag stick to or wipe off the glue on the inside of the L?
You wad it up really well in the pipe, only enough sticking out in the ell to pull it out when you're done. Glue won't stick to it. PVC glue disolves's not much on adhesion.

    Bookmark   April 29, 2009 at 4:20PM
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It would appear that many people are trying to make a simple task difficult.

The drip is only one drop every 4 or 5 seconds so obviously there would be no real pressure on the joint.

The clearance between the exterior of the pipe wall and the interior of the fitting is only .004". For the few moments it will take for the glue to set, the glue will displace any water.

Clean the exterior of the pipe, apply primer, then glue, then make up the joint. Give it a few minutes for the glue to set, then go find something else to worry about.

    Bookmark   April 30, 2009 at 1:01AM
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There is a difficulty for every solution.

It finally quit dripping.

The water was, however, standing at the edge bulging with surface tension. I flickt some out with my finger. I shoved a rag several inches in for several minutes. It came out wet but not soaking. I shoved in another dry rag several inches. I applied glue to the pipe, the fitting, the pipe, pulled out the rag and applied the fitting.

I hustled down to the other end (3'6") and, beating the advancing water, glued on with feverish fingers, the final link to my sprinkler valve manifold system. Then, as advised, and being extremely worried about several other things, I forgot it. About 6 hours later I shot the pressure to it and it held.

    Bookmark   May 1, 2009 at 11:43AM
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Probably too late to advise, but for future reference, why not just use wet set cement, available everywhere?

Wet Set, Wet Conditions Hot Blue PVC Cement is a very fast setting, medium bodied PVC solvent cement specifically recommended for wet conditions or when quick pressurization is needed. Recommended for pressure pipe: Schedule 40 & 80, Types I & II, up to 6". For irrigation, natural gas pipe and conduit pipe. NSF certified for use in potable water, sewer and drain, waste and vent systems. Formulated for fast initial set up. Effective temperature range 10°F. to 100°F. UPC listed. Meets performance requirements of ASTM D-2564.

    Bookmark   May 2, 2009 at 11:25PM
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My can says, "Red Hot Blue Glue ...For All Pipe Schedules and Conditins...Wet Conditions OK..."

The "Wet Conditions OK" is up in the top left corner of the label. Right under where my thumb rests when reading the label. Never saw it. :-)

    Bookmark   May 4, 2009 at 11:05AM
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