running a propane line

guy_in_newhouseJanuary 23, 2007

I'm installing a 30000 btu propane heater in an out-building workshop. The building is insulated 24 x 34 x 12 with a sealed ceiling, but I haven't blown insulation above the ceiling yet. I plan on having a local gas service drop off a 100 lb tank. It'll be installed outside the building and secured in place.

Is there a plumbing code book similar to the "Wiring Simplied" version of the NEC? I've been searching for a book that will give me an idea of the basic coding & placement of piping, materials to use...etc.. The piping or tubing run will be about 12-13 feet, pretty simple install, but I haven't done much plumbing like this. I have done plenty of electrical work & a fair bit of carpentry. I just need some guidance with respect to codes as I'd like to do it right.

thanks

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peteyboy

The norm in my area is soft copper from the tanks, black iron through the structure of the wall of the building it serves and from there black iron to the heater.

"Some" will use CSST or Gas-Tite flexible gas lines but I'm not too crazy about it. It works but I like black iron; it will be there if the building burns down. A safer piping system indeed. The very reason you see it in 100 year old buildings without failure.

    Bookmark   January 23, 2007 at 9:01PM
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rjoh878646

The last home I owned we had propane. The propane company would run the piping for cost of materials. (Outside Findlay,Ohio and the company was Hancock Gas)

They used soft copper rated for propane from the tank to the house. Put a second regulator on the outside of the house and ran black iron pipe to the water heater and the furnace. When I had a stove put in they ran soft copper to the stove,terminated below the floor into black iron and stubbed it to the stove. IfI was you in a garage run all black iron pipe from outside to the heater.

Whatever you do, before using the heater, have the propane company do a leak test on the lines before firing anything up If memory serves me the propane guy had a leak and traced it to a fitting with a pinhole in it.You have to remember propane is heavier than air. It will pool at the lowest point. I believe any responsible propane company will do the leak test for free.

When I was living in my old house, a house about 3 miles from me blew up because the owners had a leak in the crawlspace and the crawlspace filled up with propane and blew the house up when it reached the pilot light on the water heater. Come to find out the owners did the install themselves and did not get it leak tested.

    Bookmark   January 24, 2007 at 9:44AM
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davidandkasie

around here a propane company is REQUIRED to sign off on all line the tank is connected to at time of install. if it is new line, they will not do so without verification that a licensed plumber installed the lines. if it is old lines, they will run a pressure test and sign off quickly.

when we had our tank put in, the gas guy ran soft copper to the outside fo the house, then a black iron stub thru the wall. the cut off valve was installed on the stub, and the dryer hooked up there since it came thru right behind the dryer.

    Bookmark   January 24, 2007 at 12:02PM
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hookoodooku

I don't have propane, but our house is supplied with natural gas. 10 year old construction, and the only place there was any black iron was inside the fireplace (from the shutoff to inside the fireplace.) Soft copper was used from the meter, inside a PVC sleave through the wall, and to the manifold. Soft copper was used again from the manifold to the furnace, hot water heater, and fire place.

    Bookmark   January 24, 2007 at 4:08PM
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trentham_bellsouth_net

What is proper "gunk" to use on flare fittings and black pipe threads? Thanks

    Bookmark   November 9, 2010 at 1:49PM
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