Can I use oil based paint over latex primer?

pinebeltgirlSeptember 4, 2010

Im currently painting my new unfinished oak kitchen cabinets. Ive already painted 2 coats of latex based bonding primer. But after doing some research, many say that oil based paint will hold up better. Before I go any further, I want to know: Do I need to use another coat of oil based primer over the existing latex bonding primer? Do they make an oil based bonding primer? And will oil-based paint really hold up better?

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DON'T do it.

Oil OVER latex primer will expand & contract at different rates.

Oils get more RIGID over time.
Latexes retain flexibility.
Oils will amber over time too...

As long as you're using a top-notch Latex paint, in at least a Satin sheen, you'll do well.
Dont' cheap out with ONE coat.

If you use FPE's ECO series paint (Latex), you'll be stunned. I was!
Not cheap tho...


    Bookmark   September 5, 2010 at 11:01PM
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Jim, if you are going to spam, at least post accurate info!

I really don't know what 'oil base enamel is the preferred under coater for latex primer' means. First, as Faron explained in an earlier post, 'enamel' is a word that really can mean anything, but it sounds like you are saying that oil based paint is a primer for latex primer?

To the OP, yes it is too late for you to make the switch now. If you were really breaking it down, it's probably still true that oil based primers are better than latex primers, but this doesn't mean you will notice that difference or that your cabinets will not hold up well just because you used a latex primer. I use latex primers a lot because they are just more user friendly and they don't stink. It may also be true that oil based paints (topcoats) are more durable than latex paints, but modern day latex (acrylics) have come a long way and oil based paints have other drawbacks (yellowing, cracking, hazardous to breathe) that make latex paints the better choice overall.

    Bookmark   September 6, 2010 at 3:41PM
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When they say don't "cheap out"


Take my advice, I learned the hard way.

You can
a) paint one coat of cheap-y paint, and then re-paint it year after year, and re-scrape, and get a sunburn and waste weeks on end, or....

b) pay the money up front, and do it right.

Expensive lesson, especially when you are painting a huge garage. DON'T use those vinyl spackling buckets that cost 2.79. Get good exterior caulking, whichever one costs the MOST is probably the best one. Be patient, just let it dry all the way. Scrape off EVERY peel, no matter how long it takes. If it's REAL bad? Get the spray on stuff, and get every last bit off. That's what I wish I'd done.
And I did scrape to bare wood, but used crummy spackle and crummy paint, and one coat.

Saving $50 on paint and materials is now probably going to cost me 16 hours time, and over $150 to fix.

If I could afford it, I would spend $2500 to side the thing and never do this again.

Spend the money up front, take your time. A GOOD paint job will last 10-20 years.

Mine lasted 16 months, and looks worse than when I started. And I had professional help. Who told me to buy the good stuff, and I ignored him, thinking how smart I was.

And don't try to paint outside when it's 80 degrees.


    Bookmark   May 12, 2012 at 1:53PM
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Christopher Nelson Wallcovering and Painting

A GOOD paint job will last 10-20 years.

Not anymore, at least on the exterior, 10 to 12 maybe. never 20

    Bookmark   May 15, 2012 at 6:24AM
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Generally oil paints are considered harder and having more "mar" resistance. You are probably ok with oil over what you've started but I'd shop for higher quality waterborne finish coats first. Muralo makes a great product that should work fine. Make sure you allow for curing time before expecting maximum hardness, 2 weeks to a month depending on conditions.

    Bookmark   May 24, 2012 at 9:13AM
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