Painters tape - need advice!!

highknitterSeptember 1, 2010

I used Frog Tape on the ceilings and trim of a room I just finished painting. (I only painted the walls.) Just took the tape off and found that in several areas paint is on the top of the baseboard. I'm not sure why. I dusted the baseboards before applying, to make sure it would stick well. I am now looking for advice on how to remove the paint. I do not want to paint over it w/ the trim color. I was hoping perhaps a razor blade...anything ideas are welcome. Thank you.

(For those not familiar w/ Frog Tape, it is supposed to be superior to regular old, blue painters tape.)

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Funny you should post this, because I just used Frog Tape for the first time this weekend, and was not impressed at all.

I was painting the inside of a drawer a contrasting color, so taped over the top edge, burnished the edge down with a putty knife, and painted. I took the tape off as soon as coat #2 was tacky, and I had several spots where the paint bled through. I've had better luck with the plain blue tape, and it sure was cheaper!

To answer your question, you may try a tiny bit of Goo Gone on a q-tip? You don't say, but I'm guessing the wall paint is latex? You could also try a bit of alcohol or paint thinner, but this may remove some trim paint if it's also latex. For a non-chemical solution, perhaps a damp Mr Clean Magic eraser gently rubbed on the trim?

    Bookmark   September 1, 2010 at 4:58PM
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Thanks for the reply. I appreciate your comment, directed at the pesky green tape. Never again. It was very expensive...

    Bookmark   September 1, 2010 at 5:59PM
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I read on this forum that you can also seal off the painting edge with a thin coat of the base paint, so if there's any bleed through, it will be that color. You can also rub the edge with a damp cloth (let it dry before you paint) to seal the edge. I have a whole roll of the stuff (and lots more painting to do) so I'm going to test those tricks before I use it again.

It shouldn't have to be that hard, though.

    Bookmark   September 1, 2010 at 7:09PM
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I use tape all the time (blue, green, brown) and sometimes there is no rhyme or reason why it didn't *work*.
If your paint job is fresh, you may be able to clean the baseboard with a damp paper towel -- gently. And, if none of the other tips work, you may have to get out the trim paint.

    Bookmark   September 1, 2010 at 7:24PM
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I just finished painting a room that had tons of edging. I used frog tape and it worked perfectly. I didnt have a single spot of bleed thru.

However, when I was at the paint store buying it, they told me to make sure it stays in its plastic container so it doesn't dry out. I guess if it does, it wont work like its supposed to and it will be just like cheap, painters blue tape. Im not sure, but maybe this caused your problem and why the tape didnt work right.

    Bookmark   September 1, 2010 at 10:26PM
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We get TONS of nice comments on the Frog-tape!

When it was first avail. in Nov. '07, we jumped on it. We haven't looked back. Still sells very well here.
It was ~ a year b4 I noticed it at the local HD in town!!

2 better (NON-Frog) ways to stop seepage...

1) Use just a TRACE of Painter's-Caulk rubbed along the edge. Use a clean cloth to wipe off what you can see. If you can't see it...IT'S ENOUGH!
>>> This is BULLETPROOF.

2) Use your paint to "dry-brush" the edge. You'll apply too little to bleed...just a "haze" of paint. It dries too fast when thinly applied, and won't bleed, but will fill the micro-pores.

Personally, I wait 'till next day to pull tape!
* It's CRITICAL to score the edge so paint doesn't pull-into itself.
* Paint-bonding can take weeks b4 fully cured-out.
* During this time, the paint film is better bonded TO ITSELF...than it is to the wall!!
* Therefore, if ya don't score the edge, odds are 50% it'll pull into your drying paint.
* By waiting to pull tape, my edges are LASER fine, due to the scoring with a sharp snap-knife.


    Bookmark   September 1, 2010 at 11:55PM
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