Any tricks for using BIN

franksmom_2010August 28, 2010

I've used the BIN shellac primer for all sorts of things. Covers great, paint sticks and covers great. In general, love the stuff!

However...I find the spray much, much easier to use. Every time I've tried using the brush on, I end up with brush marks, wads of paint, etc. Apparently, I'm not fast enough or neat enough, or something. It seems to dry immediately as I'm brushing it on, so it makes going over any tiny spot twice or any overlap at all just a huge mess.

Anywho, I have a lot of furniture to paint, and have a gallon of BIN. I'm not really wanting to buy enough spray cans to prep all of the pieces, but if it saves me a few days sanding the whole mess off, I'd do it.

Any suggestions for using this? Is there any kind of brush or roller that would help? I'm currently using Purdy brushes for both primer and paint.

Oh, and I tried smoothing out a messy priming job using some 000 steel wool dipped in denatured alcohol. Don't do it. The flat surfaces did smooth out, but every crack and crevice ended up with gobs of BIN with tiny threads of steel wood embedded in it.

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I used it with a foam roller and that seemed to work.

The problem is that I've not found a good way to reuse a foam roller so I did go through quite a few of them in my last job.

    Bookmark   August 28, 2010 at 6:43PM
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You really don't want to use steel wool for anything that gets topcoated with latex because those tiny bits of steel can eventually rust. It's true that BIN is a pain to apply. One thing you can do is get a small 4" roller for large areas like the panels of doors and use that to apply the paint quickly and then backbrush it. You lose too much time going to the can to dip your brush because the stuff tacks up too quickly. Other than that, just work in small sections so that you are not brushing back into any BIN that you applied several seconds ago. I pretty much plan on throwing away any brushes/rollers I used applying the BIN.

    Bookmark   August 28, 2010 at 7:33PM
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Thanks so much! I think I'll try it with a roller for the dressers. They're essentially flat all over, so maybe I can cut in with a brush at the edges, let that dry, then roll over all of the flat surfaces.

I'm guessing to use one of the dense foam rollers...not anything with any kind of nap or a roller made with that same density foam as they make the cheap black brushes?

Paintguy, I did not know that. Rats! I do love my steel wool, but I can see how that could happen. I usually finish sanding with a 220 grit, then buff with 000 steel wool.I vaccuum the whole thing, wipe it down with a microfiber cloth, then with paint thinner on a rag. Wonder if I should use one of the 300 grits for a final sanding, or if the 220 is enough? Overkill?

Oh, and that hot mess I made on the last project was a nightstand with turned legs! OMG...sanded until I thought my fingers would bleed. I got the first coat of paint on today, and I think it's going to turn out pretty. Either way, it'll look better than it did before!

    Bookmark   August 28, 2010 at 7:51PM
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Lori A. Sawaya

Painting with Bin is like using thinned nail polish. Thin, drippy, and like a half-sec of open time.

Nothing constructive to contribute. I'm just agreeing with you! :D

    Bookmark   August 29, 2010 at 1:01AM
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No kidding! I've refinished lots of furniture over the years, so I've handled stripper, thinners, stain, varnish, paint, etc. I had never used BIN before, but it was the best choice for a project I did a while back.

I thought I knew what I was doing, but when I went to make that second or third pass with the brush to smooth it out...yikes!

Again, it's a great product, but sure is a bear to work with! I used some Rustoleum brush-on primer for another piece that still had remnants of red and brown paint on it, and sure enough, it's all bleeding through. I haven't used the 1-2-3 or any of the Kilz products, so I have no opinion. I'm painting over pine, and a few pieces that are currently very dark that I'm painting light colors.

I wish I had a sprayer. I'd bet you could run that BIN through a compressor/sprayer and be done with it in no time. Same thing with the paint.

    Bookmark   August 29, 2010 at 8:53AM
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Hmm I've used bin to cover smoke stains in a house didn't have any plms using rollers with a nap so why not use a 3 inch roller without the plastic tip and just roll the whole thing of course if you want brush marks I would say try back brushing and perhaps next time use oil primer. And for anyone who trys to spray it I recomend a respirator ; )

    Bookmark   August 30, 2010 at 4:37PM
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Ok, so I bought a 4" roller, lots of extra rollers, etc. It was better, but even with that high density foam, it left the surface with a lot of texture. Gggrrr!

I found a huge container of 1-2-3 in the garage left by the PO's, so for my current project, that's what I'm going to use, but the next chest of drawers is going to have to have BIN (very dark, very knotty pine.) Wonder if I could just spray a shot of BIN over the knots, then brush on 1-2-3 over the rest, or if that would be a disaster?

I'm itching to get into my new ACE cabinet paint on this chest I'm working on now. If it all works out, I'll post some pics.

    Bookmark   September 1, 2010 at 11:58AM
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GOOD GRIEF! I sanded down the BIN, wiped everything down with a tack cloth, and put on the 1-2-3. Good stuff. Went on like a dream, dried and leveled nicely, cleaned up fine. Waited 3 hours or so, and went to take a look and scuff sand with 330 grit. I *almost* didn't sand, because it looked so nice, but I try to be a good painter, so decided to suck it up and do it.

There were 5-6 random places on the chest of drawers that the primer just rolled off with the sandpaper. What the...I could just scrape it off with my fingernail!

Now, since these were just a few spots (I sure did go over the whole piece after that) I'm guessing that these were places that got missed with the scuff sanding and cleaning with paint thinner steps? This is a chest of drawers that was stained and varnished with poly 20+ years ago, so I *tried* to be diligent with the cleaning and sanding to get off any trace of old furniture polish.

I used a 220 grit on those areas, got off anything that was peeling, smoothed with the 330 grit, cleaned with paint thinner, then recoated the primer. I'm leaving it alone until tomorrow, and will scuff sand again with the 330.

I'm sorry to sound like such a newb, but I'm using totally different (hopefully better) materials than I have before, so I'm not sure what to expect. And I sure could use a pep talk. I'm tired, it's hot, my back hurts. I'm hoping that someday, my bedroom furniture will look nice.

    Bookmark   September 1, 2010 at 7:06PM
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It's probably just a curing issue. The primer grabs better the longer it has to dry. This even happens with BIN...I can scrape it off with my fingernail 2 hours later but the next day it won't budge.

    Bookmark   September 2, 2010 at 11:35AM
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My sprayer from ebay should arrive next week, I am going to try spraying the BIN on my project, hope it works well.

    Bookmark   October 23, 2010 at 7:26AM
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I used a velour roller (not foam!) when I primed my cabinets with BIN. It worked really well, no stippling.

I did work fast, though ; )

I heart BIN : ) (as you can tell). That stuff is like glue (in a good way).

    Bookmark   October 27, 2010 at 1:26AM
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Has anyone sprayed BIN using an HVLP gun? My first experience (brush-priming some skylight frames) was about the same as others, thanks for the warnings. I'll be trying the HVLP gun next time, the stuff looks like it was made for it ... LOTS of pigment and a perfect HVLP viscosity.

    Bookmark   May 16, 2011 at 1:30PM
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Forgot to post a follow-up: the BIN sprays beautifully with my HVLP gun. It's fine right out of the can, no thinning or other modification needed.

Only glitch, my wood skylight frames are still peeling paint at the lower corners --- it's where the condensation runs.

    Bookmark   April 23, 2013 at 12:51PM
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