Ceiling Paint

choc-full-o-nutsAugust 2, 2010

Hi, I have an issue with my ceiling paint.

I have painted a lot of ceilings by non-pro standards I think. At least 50. I have even torn out stucco and skim coated, patched, primed, and painted. I have always used flat white ceiling paint. I have never had an issue with anything. The last ceiling I painted prior to this was back in 2004 or so and I used some sort of BM Ceiling White. Probably the Muresco or whatever it is called.

Anyhow, On this current paint job, I used Valspar Ultra-Premium Ceiling White paint. I just cut it in and put it on with a medium smooth roller the same way I always do. I did notice this paint does not smell, does not drip or splatter, seemed to cover well, and dried very fast. I let it dry overnight. It looked ok but was still a bit splotchy so I put another coat on. The first thing I noticed is that the second coat takes MORE paint than the first. That did not seem normal and after this coat dried the finish is now just as splotchy as it was prior, but the splotches have moved.

I think I have what is refered to as flashing. Areas where the paint was run over by the roller while it was still tacky. Thats common to glossy finishes but on a flat ceiling, I have never seen it. It seems paint formulations have changed over the last couple of years.

Is there paint that is not as sensitive to application? Im not looking for absolute perfection but the areas that have flashed appear darker than the areas that have not giving an unfinished look in direct sunlight. It is just not acceptable.

My thoughts were to give it a light sanding, wait a week and apply another paint of some kind.

Any hints?

Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

I've seen similar issue (dark areas) using the Benjamin Moore Ceiling Paint (new waterborne, not Muresco). The paint can be described as what you mentioned: quick drying & thick.

In my case, the parts of ceiling that appear dark show surface cracks when I looked at closely. Is yours the same?

    Bookmark   August 2, 2010 at 3:51PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

I will take a close look at it later. I have had that type of paint failure (crackling) before on spackled ceilings but not on a flat one. Usualy on flat ceilings, if there is an issue, I will see blistering but I didn't see any hint of that either.

    Bookmark   August 2, 2010 at 4:26PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

Ok, I took a good close look with a magnifier and I see no evidence of any cracking. It is quite dry now. Its just that the sheen is uneven and shows a lot of roller marks. I understand that this is an issue with newer low voc paints so I guess I am asking what an easier to use alternate paint is.

    Bookmark   August 2, 2010 at 6:10PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

You bet that paints have changed over the last few years. There really isn't a good ceiling paint available on the market anymore that I can find. I have never liked Muresco though. I used to like Super Spec, but no more. I think the best BM paint for ceilings would be the Aura ceiling paint, though it is a good idea to thin it some because it is very thick stuff. What you describe about the second coat taking more paint is not surprising. A flat paint is not really a good primer for itself and not all flats are the same. Some flats are more porous than others so that when you paint over it, it may soak in more or less. The best way to solve your situation is really to prime the ceiling with a good primer. The good primers will seal the ceiling so that when you paint over it, the paint will not soak into another porous surface as far. This will also give you more open time....the key to having a ceiling come out perfect is to have it so the entire ceiling is wet at the same time and can dry as one. This is the reason we have so many flashing issues with modern day fast drying acrylic paints....by the time you dip your sleeve and return your roller to the ceiling you are painting, the last section you did is already too dry to touch and you get a flash.

    Bookmark   August 2, 2010 at 9:33PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

Ok, well, I am determined to fix this now.. I'm thinking some 123 Zinzer Primer Sealer.. Some S/W Promar 400 flat paint and maby adding a little conditioner to it. Using an 18" roller. Its a good thing the room is not that big. My next ceiling is freaking huge. At least 600 sq feet and 14' high.

    Bookmark   August 2, 2010 at 9:53PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

Sounds good. I haven't used Pro Mar 400 for a few years so who knows what state it is in now...at some point in time, it was a good ceiling type paint. The pros who really go for perfect ceilings sometimes even get two guys rolling to really keep that edge wet.

    Bookmark   August 2, 2010 at 11:19PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

choc-full-o-nuts, please do report back and let us know if the primer solves the problem.

I'm painting over builder's flat and appear to be having similar issues.

    Bookmark   August 3, 2010 at 8:18PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

I have always hated the way ceiling white "draws" on subsequent coats. Like a sponge. I decided to save myself the anguish, and will always use flat wall paint on ceilings.
Here in WV we are still not in low-VOC-ville as of now. I still can purchase oil paint in gallons, and regular acrylic formulas.
I had an experience with low-VOC floor stain and floor finish last year in VA, which was a FUBAR.

    Bookmark   August 3, 2010 at 8:55PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

Will do Safoo. I just finished sanding it. That Valspar paint is seriously tough stuff. Knocking the roller marks off with my palm sander was not so easy. Its only been 2 days and its hard as a rock. The reason for the primer sealer is so that the new paint won't soak into the old paint and drywall and dry too fast.

    Bookmark   August 3, 2010 at 10:24PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

Ok, well, after 8 coats I am done! Only the last three count though since the disaster was the two primer coats and three coats of Valspar. I sanded it down, put on juicy a coat of 123 with 1/2" purdy white dove. I let it dry for about 28 hours. It had not gotten hard yet but was very dry to the touch. I put about 2 oz of flo and 2 oz of water in it and mixed it up with a drill but there were some lumpy bits in it. I managed to pick most of them off. I think the can was old as it came from the back room of a local niche paint store. It has good leveling properties and I will try it again with a fresher can next time before giving up on it. After it dried, I knocked the lumps down with some 320 paper.

Now, On to the Pro-Mar 400, I cut it in with a brush and rolled with a 9" Purdy Colossus 3/4" Nap 9" all around and then hit it with an 18" Purdy Colossus 3/4" Nap. If you want to try these covers, I would order them on line as the SW store near me charges an arm and leg for them. One other bit of roller info, the 9" and 18" rollers are not exactly the same. The 18" rollers are not as tightly strung. Weird. Also, The Purdy poles are better than the Wooster ones in my opinion. Slightly stiffer and lighter and they thread on better. :-)

That Colossus cover has a bit of a learnng curve but the Pro-Mar 400 is very forgiving relative to the Valspar. I just repeated the same process for the second coat. The ceiling came out very nice except for a few bits from the primer and the Purdy Colossus.

This is one roller cover worth washing, it works better the second time because it doesn't shed. I had washed the rollers out the night before and tacked them off with masking tape but they still shed a bit.

The ProMar 400 paint has that greyish tinge that some folks equate with cheap paint and it certainly doesn't look as lux as the Valspar but it is flatter and smoother and goes well with my 1890's farmhouse theme as it looks very authentic like a calcium wash. The paint is kind of cheap though. It covered well, I didn;t cut it at all and it covered with one coat. I did the second coat to pick up a few missed spots. One of my floodlights exploded and it wasn't as bright as I like.

    Bookmark   August 9, 2010 at 2:58PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

Just to follow up, I just finished priming the walls with Zinzer 123 Water based primer. I used the purdy wite dove 1/2" Nap on a 9" roller. Going over the previous two coats of Valspar premium primer. There was signifigant sag and it required a fair amount of backrolling to keep the sagging to a minimum. I would use a 3/8" roller in the future. I still like the primer a lot. I boxed two new cans of it through a filter with the leftovers from the ceiling and found a bunch of gunk only in the can I bought from that small local store.

Anyhow, the sags shrink a lot over the first 24 hours. I'm going to leave it for 48 hours before topcoating it.

Thanks everybody.

    Bookmark   August 16, 2010 at 10:24AM
Sign Up to comment
More Discussions
Looking for creamy light gold paint. Anyone?
Want to paint using a really light creamy color with...
BM graytint
used it? Love/like/hate it? Feng Shui says extra...
Need help picking up the right paint color for my brand new house
Hi, We must bought a brand new house and request to...
Looking for the right gray paint
I just bought silvery gray/plum bedding that is to...
Paint to contrast molding
Hello, We just moved into a five year old townhouse...
JoAnn Babish
Sponsored Products
Ferros Collection ENERGY STAR Brushed Nickel Chandelier
Lamps Plus
WAC Mini Halogen Track Head for Juno Track Systems
Euro Style Lighting
Tous Table Lamp by Bover
$573.00 | Lumens
Bichon Frise Limoge
$279.00 | FRONTGATE
Commercial Electric Linear 6-Light 44 in. White Track Lighting Kit-DICONTINUED E
$49.97 | Home Depot
Signature Design by Ashley Huey Vineyard Black Five Drawer Chest
Spiral Flush Mount
Sonneman Flange Modern Contempo Flush Mount
People viewed this after searching for:
© 2015 Houzz Inc. Houzz® The new way to design your home™