Painting over a stained piece

Samantha111August 17, 2011

I've got a solid wood pine unit that's going into the main bathroom. Originally the piece was going to be done in a whitewash type finish. The bare wood was conditioned then some stain then some whitewash. Plans have changed and now it needs to be painted. The finish is a few years old now. So, where am I with this? Will the conditioner and stain interfere with the paint? How should I prep it from this point?

Another question on sealing the wood from moisture. This is a unit of five pieces being fitted together. Four have the whitewash already. Another unit is being added which is bare wood. I need to seal the bare piece and all the edges of all the adjoining pieces to reduce expansion and contraction of the joints underneath the paint finish. I was thinking primer on all the edges then maybe add a coat of paint to seal it off even better. When I asked what primer to use, the guy at the Home Depot told me to use the Behr paint & primer in one.

What do the pros here think would be the best way to prep for this?

Thanks!

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lizzie_nh

Samantha - see my review of the Behr Paint and Primer in one.

First, I'd clean the pieces well, and give them a quick sand.

I used Glidden Gripper primer over my stained/sealed bathroom vanity, followed by Behr Ultra (paint and primer in one) - Gripper was used to ensure proper adhesion since this was just a cheap builder grade piece, some of which was laminate. Given how you have described your white-washed pieces, I might also suggest Gripper, since it does provide such excellent adhesion.

But, the Behr Ultra is supposedly moisture- and mildew-resistant - good for use in a bathroom. If I were painting an unfinished piece that had no "adhesion issues" I think I would trust the Behr to seal it and to paint it. It's a thick product which goes on well, levels well, and supposedly has excellent durability. Of course, there are plenty of other options, too, but that's my two cents regarding that particular Behr product.

    Bookmark   August 17, 2011 at 1:33PM
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Samantha111

Yet another question. The counter sets back further than the end units. There is unfortunately an exposed joint between the upper and lower units which should have been a completely finished side. I was planning on doing a trim piece to cover the narrow joints between the top and bottom but didn't expect the bottom layer of wood to be exposed. The counter is supposed to have a simple ogee edge making things worse.

Can a piece of trim that has some sort of a profile other than completely flat be fitted over the ogee end? It would seem something could be cut to slip over it but is that a bad idea that would look horrible? I think any trim would have to be much thinner than the 3/4" splash and fairly simple. It will wrap around the front of the cabinet. Or if I were to stop the trim short of the counter edge and ease its profile into the side of the cabinet, using a fill for part of the unfinished gap, what would be the best product? I know spackling would crack at the seams. Maybe one of those wood dust with resin fills? Is there anything that would not crack at the seams if the wood expanded and contracted under the paint? I guess that can't really be avoided since it's the wood not the filler. Any ideas? Or do I have to butt the trim up against a square edged counter to get around this?

I think there will probably be a small gap under the counter overhang that will need filling. What would be the best fill to use under the paint for that void area? I should otherwise just paint the unit and not try to fill any joints or seamed areas because the fill product will either crack or separate from the piece (as caulk does at windows)? Just let the paint fill in?

I think the guys plan on caulking everything at the walls prior to my painting the cabinets. I'm not comfortable with this. Caulk comes away from surfaces. Then I've got loose caulk and an uneven messed up paint finish along the edges of the cabinet. I also think the cabinets will look odd caulked to the walls.

Otherwise a beautiful piece if I can get it painted well, this is making me sick.

    Bookmark   August 17, 2011 at 1:55PM
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paintguy22

I would use BIN or oil based Cover Stain as my primer. Behr's primer and paint in one is only good for using as a primer when a primer isn't needed. See, marketing gimmick. The reason you would actually need a primer here is because you are painting wood that has stain on it, and that stain may bleed through any latex product you apply. A real primer should always be used when painting wood anyway unless of course the wood has been previously painted. Sand first with some medium grit sanding blocks. As for the caulk, I guess is personal preference. Caulk only cracks when cheap caulk is used or objects move around. If the cabinet is attached firmly to the wall, I can't imagine it wouild move too much.

    Bookmark   August 17, 2011 at 8:00PM
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PRO
Christopher Nelson Wallcovering and Painting

But, the Behr Ultra is supposedly moisture- and mildew-resistant

Key word here supposedly

    Bookmark   August 18, 2011 at 7:09AM
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Samantha111

Thank you for the replies! Serious overwhelm over here.

I think I'm going to use Bondo to fill the unfinished joint areas on the sides. It's a poly resin that gets great reviews with woodworkers for repair work and isn't supposed to budge long-term.

Glad you mentioned the bleed through! I hadn't thought of that although I know there's a need to prime well. I'd really like to stay away from oil if possible.

    Bookmark   September 5, 2011 at 12:03AM
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