How much caulk around exterior door??

celticmoonJuly 30, 2007

I'm prepping for repainting exterior and find that there is a *ton* of caulk between the brick and framing of my front door. Gobs. Here's a picture of by the doorbell.

When I scrape it out, there is more framing and brick exposed, like so:

I know I need to caulk well enough to eliminate cracks and potential drafts (cold climate), but do I need to put back that amount of caulk? And cover 1/4 to 1/2 inch of the framing and brick again?

Seems like I could do it carefully and end up with a much cleaner line and look than this job from 18 years ago.

Should it have gobs of caulk? If, so I'm gonna need a whole, whole lot o tubes.

Thanks!

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annzgw

I'm sure you can do a much neater job, and no, you don't need that amount of caulk. There's no advantage to covering that much framing and brick.
Make sure the caulk you use is paintable.

    Bookmark   July 30, 2007 at 7:08PM
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PRO
Brushworks Spectacular Finishes

A good bead of caulk is 3/8" wide and no more than 3/8" deep. Use backer rod to fill the void to level if the void is deeper than 3/8". Make sure the caulk is tooled to the joint for a secure, weathertight seal.

DAP Dynaflex 230 is ideal for that application. It's paintable or comes in colors. It's acrylic and easy to work.

Michael

    Bookmark   July 30, 2007 at 9:02PM
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paintguy22

We always use the OSI Quad caulk around front door frames and garage door frames. It's meant to cover bigger gaps and from what I have seen over the years it lasts longer than latex caulk. Now I use it where ever I can for big gaps or for when you want to cover a wavy line line where stone meets door frame for that sharp, clean look. I think anyone can do a better job than that last guy did.

    Bookmark   July 30, 2007 at 11:32PM
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PRO
Brushworks Spectacular Finishes

Dynaflex 230 is Elastomeric acrylic caulk. It's a proven performer and will outlast the mineral spirit caulks.

I sell windows, doors, patio doors to home improvement contractors. There's a reason most of them refuse to use Quad caulk.

Michael

    Bookmark   July 31, 2007 at 7:32AM
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PRO
Brushworks Spectacular Finishes

If you should choose a recommended Quad product, do so with the understanding that "tooling" the product is not recommended by the manufacturer. That means, how you apply it is how it stays. So, if you're not happy with the way you lay down caulk beads, use a "toolable" caulk.

Michael

    Bookmark   July 31, 2007 at 7:53AM
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paintguy22

That's true that if you are not happy with how it looks you are screwed but you can't lay down a nice even bead to cover big wavy gaps with a latex caulk either. They are just too thin bodied. Latex caulks fail faster outside. That's just been my experience, plus I've never trusted the DAP name even though I know the top of the line Dynaflex 230 is a caulk many painters swear by it's still made by DAP so I'm hesitant. If you don't trust a brand name you just don't trust it. Plus, all new construction jobs are Quad...we don't see siders using latex caulk yet.

    Bookmark   July 31, 2007 at 10:08AM
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celticmoon

Huh. Two camps it seems. Premium DAP acrylic vs OSI quad. How is the Quad cleanup? Mineral spirits or soap and water?

I've done a LOT of interior caulking and can lay a pretty decent bead, but if the OSI is less forgiving, that may be a factor (I'm kind of obsessive and would want it perfect.)

    Bookmark   July 31, 2007 at 12:14PM
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paintguy22

Yeah Quad is solvent based, cleans up with paint thinner. I would not recommend a novice caulker using it but that's the caulk that looks most normal to me around a front door frame. For an application like that, it wouldn't be tooled...you just lay it down and leave it. There is a lot more than 2 camps too....ask 10 painters, get 10 different opinions.

    Bookmark   July 31, 2007 at 8:29PM
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