BM Aura - read a lot but a couple questions..

SheeshareeIIMay 4, 2011

Hi again! :)

I'm still planning on painting my bathroom red but have other projects in line first. I also have more questions.

I thought I had decided on BM Regal in the pearl finish because I'm sloppy at the sink (water/mascara marks). The more I think about it, I'd prefer a matte finish and am strongly considering biting the bullet and buying BM Aura even though I've ready a lot of mixed reviews.

The room is roughly 8'x8' with not a lot of wall space. 8' ceilings. One window, about 32" w if I remember right.

A few questions:

1.After curing a month, do you think it would be fine for wiping water/mascara slop marks at the sink area? - No burnishing?

2.Did you find that it touches up well?

3.For such a small space, do you think I should buy the extender? Most of the negative things I read were large spaces with tall ceilings and a lot of natural light.

4.When rolling a new section of paint, I want to overlap the edge of the section of just finish, right?

5. Oh, also I'm planning on replacing the towel bar so I'll have holes to patch. I was going to prime first so will I be ok to not have funny flash marks when I'm done painting? Was planning on using either Zinsser or BM primer (both tinted).


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1. Yes. I have it in small powder room in a deep red. Wall around the sink are routinely slashed. The water will leave streaks (in any finish btw) that are easily wiped off with a damp rag.
2. It does touch up well, but since it washes clean so readily, really haven't needed to in the powder room.
3. No
4. As with any painting project, it's best to keep a wet edge. In such a small area, cut in the whole room first, then simply roll the entire room.
5. Really no need to prime -just spot prime your patches with Aura - just be sure to feather out the edges so you do not see your patch job through the two top coats.

    Bookmark   May 4, 2011 at 12:00PM
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RE 4. People make it sound like this paint drys in 30 seconds so I was concerned about the wet edge. Sounds like I should be ok.

"5. Really no need to prime -just spot prime your patches with Aura ..."

Being a bathroom I was thinking it would be best to prime first because of steam. (Although we do have a fan.)
Yay, for skipping the primer. Does it matter how far out it�s feathered?

My walls are currently a white flat paint (builder grade something). Do you think the two coats of red will cover or is it possible I'll need three?

Also, the gap around my sink is rather wide. The old caulking got weird and dried out. I tore the old out and recaulked with the most expensive, paintable caulking I could find for bathrooms. Is it typical to paint the caulking or leave it white? I painted it in my other bathroom but the gap is minimal. I'm assuming I shouldn't, that way I don't have too big of a mess if I have to redo the caulking again?

    Bookmark   May 4, 2011 at 1:01PM
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Are you using the Aura Bath & Spa paint or the regular Aura? I know high quality paints are supposed to be able to handle some humidity even in low sheens, but I'd personally feel safer using a matte finish specifically designed for high humidity.

    Bookmark   May 4, 2011 at 3:48PM
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Jessica - Hmm, I was going to use the regular Aura. I'm assuming the bath & spa paint is also good? I'll have to do some digging around on that.

Paintguy - I'm assuming that's what you used? Although, you mentioned yours is in a powder room. . .

    Bookmark   May 4, 2011 at 10:31PM
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I've used both. Regular Aura in a powder room and B&S in a full bath subject to 20 minute showers by my kids. If this indeed a bath subject to steam, then the Bath & Spa is the way to go. It is also a matte finish and yes, the Aura will go right over the builder's flat. With any other product, I would definitely prime but since Aura is so resin rich, it will seal and hold out just fine. As for hitting the color, talk to your BM retailer since some BM colors require a foundation coat in order to hit the color in 2 coats (this is primarily for clean reds and yellows).

    Bookmark   May 5, 2011 at 8:54AM
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B&S it is!

Just to clarify, when you say spot prime with you mean use a primer on those areas or literally paint over just those spots with the Aura paint before I paint the walls?

So I still may need to get a tinted primer if I want to achieve the full color in two coats? If that's the case, since it's wonder paint, couldn't I just use three coats if need be instead of purchasing the tinted primer?


    Bookmark   May 11, 2011 at 11:04AM
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okay Bath and Spa is the way to go if any humidity will be in the room... without getting to scientific, the surface of the paint actually accepts the moisture and spreads it along the surface, resulting in no sweat marks after a shower... the result of which is a beautiful matte finish all the time, without the water marks... the regular aura while outstanding paint, does not do this, it simply rejects the water and seals the surface much like a traditional semi-gloss... not that I think there would ever be a problem here, but for the same price your better off with the aura designed for humidity.

so far as the foundation coat is concerned when you order your paint the retailer should get a warning on their computer if the color you order requires a foundation coat, but in theory yes three coats would work just fine... Or instead of purchasing an expensive foundation product (think it's close to $50 for a gallon) you could just use a deep base primer and have it tinted toward the color you need.

also the big rule with aura is to get it on the wall, it does a lot of the work for you, you just gotta keep moving...

And about the quick drying... keep in mind this is an east coast product, where humidity is high... in dry areas this paint WILL dry extremely quick.

    Bookmark   May 16, 2011 at 4:22PM
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