Stain coming through wet Primer on Kitchen Cabinets!

bop28February 28, 2009

I am in the middle of painting 1950's wooden [not oak]kitchen cabinets and have possibly run into a problem. This is what we've done:

Sanded all gloss off. Tack cloth. Primed with glossy surface, stain blocking valspar primer. Here's the problem. I just noticed a yellowy orangy stain coming up through the wet primer!!!! What the heck is that? Do I continue with another coat of primer or the 1st coat of paint or God forbid, start over?? Please help.

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Use an oil based primer or BIN. For whatever reason, the paint manufacturing industry has been able to get away with marketing their latex primers as 'stain-killers' when in actuality they do not kill any stains. One thing I may do sometimes if the staining is not widespread is use a latex primer and then pick up an aerosol can of Kilz and just spot prime the stains that have bled through with that. If the stains are everywhere though, you may as well just prime everything with the oil or BIN.

    Bookmark   February 28, 2009 at 1:28PM
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The stain is very widespread and now I'm wondering if another option would be just using glossy surface primer without sanding first. Am I asking for trouble? Also, if I do sand and use the Oil based BIN like you suggest, can I use Latex paint over the top of oil primer? Thanks so much!

    Bookmark   March 1, 2009 at 11:58AM
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You need to start over and use Zinsers Bin primer. There will not be any bleeding and you have to seal completely for your paint to work.

Here is a link that might be useful: The Designer Insider

    Bookmark   March 1, 2009 at 1:35PM
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BIN is not oil based. It's shellac based and pretty stinky. IMO the BIN is the best but you can also use an oil based primer. If the glossy surface primer is latex, the stains will bleed through that too. The oil based primers and BIN are both suitable for latex topcoats.

    Bookmark   March 1, 2009 at 2:59PM
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I think BIN is what I need. Now, after priming 1 coat with BIN, if I see any stain showing through, should I make a second coat, or just go ahead with 2 coats of my topcoat paint?

    Bookmark   March 1, 2009 at 3:06PM
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I would apply the BIN until the stains are dead.

    Bookmark   March 1, 2009 at 4:48PM
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I also saw some yellowing here and there after priming my cabinets (with all the sanding prep too). I wasn't sure what it was from, but it overall looked minor. I switched from Latex Kilz "Original" (ran out) to BM Primer and Underbody halfway through the job and saw much less of it, but still a little. All cabinets got two coats of primer because I was trying to fill the Oak grain as much as possible. I can't remember if what I saw was after the first coat or second. I didn't give it a lot of thought until I read this thread.

I continued my painting job (Aura satin off-white color) 2 coats and all is well. (Permanently???)

I guess its a matter of degree. Mine was pale yellow. Orangey doesn't sound as good.

Multiple coats of primer cannot hurt.

    Bookmark   March 2, 2009 at 8:24AM
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So I too have bleed through after erroneously switching to a water based primer. I applied another coat since the can said it may need two coats. I still have bleed through however. Can I apply the oil based primer on top of the water based that is already there (2 coats) or do I have to sand the waterbased off before applying the oil based primer?

wendyb- glad yours turned out well. Do you have pictures- I'd love to see them since I too am painting (ar at least trying to) my cabs off-white?

    Bookmark   March 3, 2009 at 7:20AM
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no pics yet. I am still in progress. waiting for appliances and floor and the cab doors are not yet re-installed.

I am going to the paint/flooring store today. I will ask about bleed thru too.

    Bookmark   March 3, 2009 at 9:17AM
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Yes you can paint the oil based primer over the water based primer.

    Bookmark   March 3, 2009 at 11:24AM
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I had a asphalt stain that was coming through latex, shellac and oil primers. Finally killed it with PVA primer!
I had wondered whether these old cabinets of the OP had been adequately de-greased beforehand. It could have been grease migrating through (it floats to the top). In such a case, will anything ever stick to grease?
Another troublesome bleed is the aniline dyes used in the 1900's to get a red mahogany finish on birch trim. It will bleed through latex and shellac, only oil tames it, and then not always. It bleeds through as pink.
Rambling again.

    Bookmark   March 4, 2009 at 11:16AM
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Yeah some stains just don't have an explanation. Believe it or not, I recently finished a remodel/addition where the general contractors actually used magic marker to write the word 'save' on the doors they were keeping. Yes, the doors they were keeping were to be painted by me. Usually I just shoot some Kilz over the magic marker to take care of the stain....but Kilz didn't work. BIN did work, but it took 7 coats....just weird.

    Bookmark   March 4, 2009 at 6:27PM
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Acetone removes enough of the sharpie ink so that it will cover. Tell them to write on painter's tape next time, or use grease pencil, which wipes off completely.

    Bookmark   March 5, 2009 at 9:59AM
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I find I can usually remove sharpie with rubbing alcohol...YMMV.

    Bookmark   March 5, 2009 at 11:30PM
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