Need tecnique advice

andreadegJanuary 31, 2012

Hello!

Recently I used Benjamin Moore Advanced on a door and a mirror frame. The mirror frame turned out great; the finish looks like it was sprayed it's so smooth. Unfortunately, not so for the door. The pocket door couldn't be removed and lain flat, so I painted it in the upright position. Boy, has it been challenging to get a good quality finish. I used a brush to lay the paint on, and then per the BM advice, used a foam roller to roll it out. But the foam roller left bubbles in the paint, and I had to rebrush those areas. This left bubbles in some place, and streaks in others, and overall I think I worked the paint too much.

Can some give me technique advice to get a better finish? I'm willing to sand what I've applied so far and give it another coat, but I want to know how to get the same even smooth finish that I got with the paintbrush and mirror frame.

Thanks in advance for your advice!

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paintguy22

In my opinion, it's just hard to get a nice finish if you are not a pro with these quick drying paints on doors. The mirror was easier because it's one piece and it's narrow. Doors are tougher because there is so much area to paint, people really tend to overwork the paint. Foam rollers do tend to leave behind bubbles which is why you don't see many pros using them. I would try a normal 4" roller like a ProDooz 1/4" nap. Use that to apply the paint and then brush it out. Work in small sections and while working in one section, don't get any paint into the sections you are not painting. Do the panels first, then do the horizontals and then the verticals.

    Bookmark   January 31, 2012 at 2:08PM
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andreadeg

Thanks paintguy; I'll give that a try!

    Bookmark   February 1, 2012 at 2:14AM
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vtremodeler

First, you've got your application procedure backwards; If you are going to use a brush AND a roller to paint a door, always use the roller to apply the paint first, then lay the paint off with a brush second. Never just use a roller, as it will leave wierd texture on the door that is undesirable.

To make the paint more workable, find some 'Latex X-Tender' by XIM, and add it to the paint in the maximum quantity recommended on the label. If you do this, plan on brushing out 2-3 nice thin coats instead of 1 thick coat.

Paint any edges of the door you want done first, then any insets or recessed panels. Hit the flat 'Face' surfaces last, and always go with the wood grain. Make sure any knobs or other hardware are off the door before you start too.

I have included a link to a pretty good tutorial below:

Here is a link that might be useful: Painting a door

    Bookmark   February 3, 2012 at 7:32PM
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andreadeg

I do happen to have some Flotrol (sp?) on hand. Can I use that product with the BM Advance paint?

Thanks for the link on how to paint a door; I've saved it to my favorites!

    Bookmark   February 3, 2012 at 8:12PM
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vtremodeler

Flotrol will do, I just prefer the XIM product. As far as I know, the only acrylic benjamin moore paint that "cant" take standard additives is the Aura line, so you should be good with the advance.

    Bookmark   February 3, 2012 at 11:22PM
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sombreuil_mongrel

Advance is a waterborne Alkyd paint. I would have concerns before adding any extenders. It's a very different formulation from acrylics or oil-based. On the Ben Moore website I could find no guidance for adding any extenders to it. So before ruining an expensive (!) gallon of paint, call their tech line for real advice.
Casey

    Bookmark   February 4, 2012 at 9:24AM
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vtremodeler

Floetrol and X-tender claim to be compatible with emulsion coatings (like waterborne alkyds). That being said, Casey is right - check w/ BM just to make sure. Double check with Flood. Never hurts to be careful.

    Bookmark   February 4, 2012 at 4:33PM
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andreadeg

I checked with my local BM store since I couldn't get a hold of anyone on the BM technical advice line. The gal at the local store said that BM recommends adding water to thin Adance; not Flotrol or any other extending agent. They recommended no more than 6 ounces of water per gallon.

So there you have it...glad i asked! I am going to add a little water and see if I can apply a thinner, nicer coat. I really like the paint, and I'm sure if I was working on a horizontal surface the paint wouild level much more nicely.

    Bookmark   February 4, 2012 at 8:06PM
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andreadeg

I just put the 3rd coat on the door, and it turned out much better. The advice to use the 1/4 nap roller was key, as was working the paint in the direction of the wood, and, not overworking the paint. I didn't add water to the paint because I didn't have a stir stick and I didn't have time to run to the paint store. The paint is still drying but I'm quite optimistic that the finish will be much better this time.

Thanks for the help and advice!

    Bookmark   February 5, 2012 at 12:32PM
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andreadeg

One final post on this topic, in case someone in the future searches and finds this topic and has the same question about BM Advance.

Guy from the BM Technical Advice line did call me today and discouraged adding anything to the Advance paint except water, and he said only add the minimum amount of water absolutely needed. He also said that water should only be necessary if I was working in a very high heat type situation.

Last but not least, he said that I may be having issues with the paint because it had been more than 2 hours since I stirred it. He said paint colorant starts to settle within two hours so it must be stirred frequently. That also explains why i got such a nice finish on the mirror frame, because the paint was just brought home from the paint store when I painted the mirror frame, but it had been a few days by the time I painted the door. Geesh, slapping self on the forehead, stir the paint!

Thanks again everyone for your help.

    Bookmark   February 7, 2012 at 11:21PM
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