Sash pulleys

graywings123September 14, 2012

I have an number of guillotine windows in my house that I want to install pulleys and weights to. Browsing on line I found these small brass sash pulleys. It looks to me as if the rim would not need to be morticed. What do you think? I've contacted the seller asking for installation instructions but haven't heard anything yet.

Here is a link that might be useful: Small sash pulley

Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
Circus Peanut

Yes, those are the push-in kind, although I don't know about having to mortice them. (Mortising isn't that difficult.)

My problem with them is that there's always the possibility of them falling out over time, since they rely on those little teeth to stay in place, and when you insert/remove them a few times for repairs, or during the course of window renovation, they are bound to get loose and wobbly, perhaps?

    Bookmark   September 14, 2012 at 12:23PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
graywings123

The company that sells them didn't have instructions; they sell them as replacements. It seems to me that mortising very hard, old wood in a window channel is difficult, and it would be even trickier to do a curved edge.

If I have to mortise - learn to mortise - I will buy the pulleys with squared edges. But I am trying to avoid that part of the job.

    Bookmark   September 14, 2012 at 1:34PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
brickeyee

Drill the correct hole for the top and bottom and then cut between the holes.

Good brad point bits cut clean (the ones with actual cutting spurs on each side of the point).

Keyhole saw or a portable jig saw if you are careful (use a fine tooth blade).

    Bookmark   September 14, 2012 at 2:38PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
graywings123

Thanks, Brickeyee. I understand the part about cutting the hole for the pulley mechanism. It is the mortising for the rim that concerns me.

Are brad point bits similar to Forstner bits?

    Bookmark   September 14, 2012 at 2:49PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
sombreuil_mongrel

Long ago I was working on an old house that had this style of pulley, and the original carpenter had whittled a peg to pass through the hole (which lined up with the backside of the jamb) providing a failsafe in case the serrated teeth worked loose. But it depended on the jamb thickness being agreeable.
Casey

    Bookmark   September 14, 2012 at 10:53PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
brickeyee

" I understand the part about cutting the hole for the pulley mechanism. It is the mortising for the rim that concerns me."

If the metal is tapers thing enough there is no real mortise needed there.

"Are brad point bits similar to Forstner bits?"

Brad pints are less expensive and better in hand drills than Forstner bits.

they have a more standard twist drill body, but a tip optimized for clean wood cutting.

A central spur for location ad cutting spurs at the outer edges of each flute (similar to an auger bit).

Good ones cut nice holes, cheap ones tear like a split point pastern twist drill.

    Bookmark   September 15, 2012 at 10:46AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
sombreuil_mongrel

My favorite Forstner-type bit are the sawtooth-edged ones by Bormax. They cut as cleanly as a forstner but more aggressively, and work well freehand outside a drill press. They are also $$
Casey

    Bookmark   September 15, 2012 at 3:14PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
sacto_diane

No need to mortise. I have these pulleys on all of my windows and have replaced a few. As long at the opening for the pulley is the right size, they will sit flush with a very slight reveal. The reveal will not affect the window operation

Diane

    Bookmark   September 15, 2012 at 5:10PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
brickeyee

"My favorite Forstner-type bit are the sawtooth-edged ones by Bormax. "

Not really a Forstner any more (there is an old Forstner patent, long expired, that defines the bit).

The toothed ones fail at the one very special thing the bit is good at, drilling overlapping holes at an angle to the wood surface.

    Bookmark   September 16, 2012 at 10:50AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
graywings123

Brickeyee - do they make brad point bits in larger sizes? The largest I'm finding is 1/2 inch.

    Bookmark   September 17, 2012 at 9:34AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
brickeyee

Try Woodcraft.

They go to at least 3/4 inch.

Use a LOW RPM DRILL.

Here is a link that might be useful: woodCraft Brad point bits

    Bookmark   September 17, 2012 at 11:15AM
Sign Up to comment
More Discussions
1940 house (colonial) need period lighting advice
Hi! I'm really trying to stick with lighting that would...
Carolyn
Oh crap, plaster crack
I was removing a window casing so I could reposition...
graywings123
Weird things found in old houses
So I went on a basement rampage this weekend, donning...
ideagirl2
White Cedar Shingles: Best price?
Hi all, My wife and I are gearing up to restore the...
dmatlosz
Civil War Markers
We know that the house we purchased was built before...
barbcollins
People viewed this after searching for:
© 2015 Houzz Inc. Houzz® The new way to design your home™