Plexiglas over painted drywall for backsplash color: PMS376

studio460February 9, 2010

You know that trendy "green" color that's so much in vogue these days in marketing and branding everything to do with the environment? Well, I finally found it. It's the color used in the H&R Block logo . . .

A quick Google search brought up a post suggesting that it's PMS 376 (as defined in the printing industry standard colorguide, the "Pantone Matching System"). However, this number is also documented to be the color spec'd in the "Planet Green" logo, (also defined in CMYK as C50 Y100). However, all electronic versions of "Planet Green" look different (lighter, with more yellow) from H&R Block signage and collateral material, so I'm a bit suspect of that PMS value.

Anywho, someone posted a neat photo of a "Plexiglas-over-paint backsplash" in the "alternative backsplashes" thread, and I thought it looked awesome! Now, I'm inspired to do all of our backsplashes in that same Plexiglas-covered, painted-drywall motif, as was shown in that picture. I'm soon planning to do the final patching to all of the errant crevices and voids in the Hardibacker panels and existing plaster above our new Silestone kitchen counters, using a good joint compound (or should I use something like "20-minute" or actual Plaster of Paris?), and sand smooth. Then I'll paint using a high-quality, 100% acrylic, PMMA-based paint in the "H&R Block" logo color. Any tips of suggestions on how to best achieve the "glass over color" look is appreciated!

1. Planning to use glossy finish, right?

2. Will use high-quality, PMMA-based, 100% acrylic paint.

3. Will seal top of backsplash with clear 100% silicone.


I can seal the top of the backsplash with silicone, but what about preventing condensation between the Plexiglas and the painted drywall? Possibility of Newton rings, etc.?

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I'm answering my own post! Suppose I leave a narrow air-gap between the Plexiglas and the painted wall surface? In the bottom of the air-gap, on the surface of the Silestone, I mount a row of narrow LED lighting strips (although LEDs give off very little heat, they do emit some, which, I imagine, could act as a sort of micro-defrosting system).

Anyway, the main aesthetic benefit would be that the LEDs would supply a nice uplighting effect on the bright-green, painted-backsplash, "background field."

Now, I suppose these Plexiglas panels should be designed to be removable for cleaning. I need to find/understand how those round glass clips work . . . (any ideas, suggestions, resources?). Basically, I need to be able to mount the Plexiglas, using some sort of "stand-off," raising the Plex off of the wall surface by approximately 3/8" to allow clearance for the LED strip lighting. This air-gap also creates added "dimension" to the transparent Plexi surface (a good thing!). Any other ideas?

    Bookmark   February 9, 2010 at 4:41AM
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Googling, "who matches Pantone paint," I found that Pantone does actually make paint now. Only sold in liters for some odd reason, their stuff is ultra-expensive: $50/liter! Anyway, I wanted to clarify, that if Planet Green's logo is PMS 376 (which I was able to document), then I think H&R Block is definitely not PMS 376 (which I only found "identified" as H&R Block's color from an unqualified post in a sign-making forum). While not wholly accurate, using Pantone's online color selection guide, I found that H&R Block appears to be much closer to PMS 368 instead (less yellow, less luminance).

    Bookmark   February 9, 2010 at 5:50AM
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Be very careful with Plexiglass. It's very soft and scratches easily. Lexan would be a better choice but it's much more pricy. Pricier than glass. Actual glass would be the most durable and cost effective. Safety glass of course!

    Bookmark   February 9, 2010 at 7:11AM
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I've seen this done with rare-earth magnets as the fastening system. They are small and powerful and easy to epoxy onto the plexi and wall. Can't speak to the LED idea but it does sound cool. LEDs aren't warm so I don't think they would cause any convection but if you don't seal the edges of the plexi with silicone it would probably be fine. Maybe some sort of removable rubber gasket for the edges?

    Bookmark   February 9, 2010 at 8:55AM
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I had a piece of plexiglass screwed into the wall protecting the wallpaper over my stove for quite a few years. I always considered it a temporary measure.

    Bookmark   February 9, 2010 at 9:22AM
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live wire oak: Thanks for your reply! Yeah, I always get the two plastics mixed up! I think the deal is acrylic (Plexiglas) vs. polycarbonate (Lexan). I know that one is less susceptible to scratching, but more prone to yellowing, and the other is the reverse. Here, I've found a bullet list comparing the two--I'm going to quote it here for my own reference:

Key characteristics/differences, acrylic (Plexiglas) compared to polycarbonate (Lexan):
More likely to chip, less impact resistance then polycarbonate. (still 10-24 times more resistant than glass)
Less likely to scratch.
More of a consumer (household) level and is easier to find at hardware stores.
Does NOT yellow after time.
Better clarity and can be restored to optical clarity.

Key characteristics/differences, polycarbonate (Lexan) compared to acrylic (Plexiglas):
Impact/chip resistance is much higher with polycarbonate. (about 30 times more resistant than glass)
More likely to scratch.
Substantially more expensive. (roughly 2 to 3 times)
Used for more industry applications.
Bulletproof when thick enough.
More bendable.
More formable.
Yellows over time due to ultraviolet rays
Easier to work with (cut, less likely to break)
Poorer clarity, diffuses light, can lighten (could be positive).


The somewhat awkward semantics (what compared to what?) makes this summary a bit confusing, but it was one of the first summaries I could easily Google.

trixieinthegarden: Interesting stuff! Great ideas! Thank you for the information!

fran1523: Thanks for commenting! How has it held up?

    Bookmark   February 10, 2010 at 7:14AM
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Wow, those ideas are brilliant! I love the magnet idea! And a removable rubber gasket? Wow, you're very inventive! And you're guessing that the LEDs don't produce enough thermal convection . . . Again, I'm impressed! From your screen name, I imagine you have a million ideas for the garden as well. Hope to see you on the other side of the forum this summer. I'll have a LOT of questions!

    Bookmark   February 10, 2010 at 7:19AM
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Hey, if anyone's still listening, I have a question . . . on one side of the kitchen (the cooking side), the wall is covered in a WilsonArt laminate, so I was thinking of attaching a length of painted lumber for the backsplash (then we'll apply the Plexiglas on top). What kind of lumber do I buy? Do I buy that "furniture-grade" stuff? What kind of wood? We're painting it opaque, so we don't need a grain pattern. Also, how thick does it need to be to be resistant to warpage? I was thinking 0.75" x 6.0" x 8' (counter length).

    Bookmark   February 11, 2010 at 6:22PM
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