LG Washer issues

b8mn1December 6, 2013

I have an older LG Tromm Front Load washer, Mod # WM2277HW s/n # 602kwhx05025.

In Jan 2013 I had to replace the control Board because it died. Nothing worked or lit and the LED on the control board would not light... So, with the new control board, it worked great.... for 10 months... then Bam. Literally, .. My wife was washing and I head a bam.. Later realized the washer was dead.. no lights no codes... Opened it up and the LED on the control board is not lit...

The tub turns freely and nothing "looks" wrong....

What would cause the control board to die prematurely? any suggestions to to check some other part before I re-order the control board?


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In all honestly, I would send this LG to the boneyard and invest in a Speed Queen top loader.
They have no control boards to break and are old school in every sense of the word. I have one and yes it does use more water than an HE or FL bottom line it works.

Here is a link that might be useful: AWN 542 in action

    Bookmark   December 6, 2013 at 4:33PM
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Unlike the SpeedQueen spammer who seems to work for them or whatnot, I actually owned an LD WM2277. It worked fine until it was flooded in 2011 with sewer water.

It did need some repairs along the way (hall sensor and water valves) but it lasted 5 years and would have went many more had it not been flooded with sewer water.

One thing you might want to check is that there are no leaking hoses or valves. On ours the water valve leaked (coincidentally when the water co upped the pressure) and I'd imagine if there was a leak near a board it could cause it to go poof. There are a fair amount of hoses in these machines and if one leaks, same deal.

The "Noise Filter" may also be a source of the trouble as it's right before the PCB.

I've included a link to the repair manual - that may help you troubleshoot it.

Here is a link that might be useful: Service Manual

    Bookmark   December 6, 2013 at 10:25PM
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Ignore itguy08, he's been drinking the eco nazi kool aid

    Bookmark   December 7, 2013 at 9:19AM
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As ITguy posted that he had problems when they upped the water pressure, I wonder if you had an electrical surge which caused your machine to pop. You might want to check the name of your electrical panel and then google to make sure it is not one that is having issues. Probably all homes should have whole house surge protectors since about everything (other than speed queens and your table lamps) seem to have some kind of circuit board or chip enhancement. If nothing else I would buy an individual surge suppressor for your washer.

    Bookmark   December 7, 2013 at 4:20PM
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B8mn1 they also make a gadget that looks like an oversized plug with lights on the end. It checks that the electricity is flowing correctly. You also might want to pull your electrical plug and check for loose wires or arcing. I'm sure you know to turn off the power, and recheck for power, before touching any electrical receptacle.

    Bookmark   December 7, 2013 at 5:17PM
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To SQ Shill,

No Eco Nazi stuff here. Never really liked the top loader washer. Used too much water and never really seemed to do a good job. And too limited in the controls - no heaters or profile washes to really get stains out.

Bought our FL's in 2006 and clothes come clean and they did a great job cleaning. Until a flood took them out. Bought another pair and they also clean great.

Sorry you are too old and set in your ways but for the rest of us, we like our FL's just fine. You like your TL and I like my FL.

    Bookmark   December 7, 2013 at 10:19PM
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I re-wired the plug powering the washer since the original PCB replacment... as part of the upcoming laudry room remodel..
The circut is fine and it got a new GFI plug.

The internal components are completly dry and show no signs of ever getting wet... The bottom is dry and a close exam of the PCB looks brand new...

So,, I purchased a used unit yesterday from Crigslist... $40 for the washing machine and low raiser.. The P/O said it was giving him an LE Code and he replaced parts but the code continued...

I put the PCB from the "used" unit into mine... and powered right up.. the red LED was on .. I did one load. fine.. it gave me the LE code on the second load.....

I had to go to work and my wife was going to do some more loads and we'll see how it goes....

I had received the LE code once or twice years ago with the original PCB installed... but haven't seen it since.. and not at all with the brand new (recently dead) PCB... I wouldn't think the PCB would "store" that info either.. I would think it would be supplied by other components.... so I don't know why I would get it now

Hopefully,,, this was like the orignal and it will reset and be okay,,,,

The story continues.......

    Bookmark   December 8, 2013 at 6:42AM
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itguy08, do you even have a brain?

TL are too limited? Not enough "profiles"?

Are you serious?

How many cycles does one need to wash clothes made from cotton/polyester/rayon, etc?

How, may I ask, did tens of millions of people manage to get clean clothes in old tech Maytags, Kelvinators, GE, Blackstones, and Norges without being able to "heat the washwater" as you suggest?

I think your problem is "washer envy". You spent a pile of money on a techno laden FL machine and you cannot stomach the fact that my old school SQ does the job just as well, is much easier to use and in all honestly, will last longer than any HE FL machine made today. Yes technology has its place. Won't argue that. But in the laundry room, all this so-called technology has resulted in machines that are less reliable, more complicated to use, and more expensive to fix.

Error codes? I expect that from my desktop PC. But not from an appliance that should do a basic job of cleaning laundry.

    Bookmark   December 8, 2013 at 8:56AM
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LE is the Locked Motor error - most likely the hall sensor is going dead. Early WM2277's (and other LG's) had issues with them and the revised part is 100x better.

Grab the service manual fro the link I listed - there is a procedure to test it out. It's simple to replace and cheap (but you have a spare you can try)

Here are a few links that may help:


The only thing I disagree with is the BS that it's caused by detergent. The part simply watches the revolutions of the motor and that doesn't care if it's hot/cold, under load, etc.

    Bookmark   December 8, 2013 at 9:00AM
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double post... sorry

The story continues.......

This post was edited by b8mn1 on Sun, Dec 8, 13 at 11:30

    Bookmark   December 8, 2013 at 11:26AM
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SQTroll, of course I have a brain.

I like the simplicity of the front loader and the cycle choices.

Can your ancient machine sanitize clothes without bleach? Nice to know we can wash our dog's stuff in there and have it nice and clean. That goes for our sheets as the dog likes to "Borrow" our bed when we are not home.

Can your ancient machine use a steam cycle to get wrinkles and odors out? Ours can.

I like to know that if I pick the stain cycle the machine will do a profile wash to get out most stains (starts with cold then works to hot).

I like to know I can select spin speed so the delicate sweaters get low, the towels get the bejeezus spun out of them, etc.

I like how I can put in 9-10 pairs of jeans and have them come out clean. Or wash 2-3 sets of queen sheets at a time and have them spotless. Or the comforter.

Sorry if I like to have a little more control over my wash than the dumb top loader where there is limited options on caring for the clothes.

Total repairs on these Kenmore (LG) front loaders over 2.5 years. $0. You act like nobody has ever replaced a timer, coupling, belt, or transmission on a top loader. That is not true - plenty have replaced plenty of parts on top loaders.

I'll stick with my clean clothes in a front loader that I can have some control over. You stick with your ancient POS top loader. Perhaps an Old Curmudgeon forum would be right up your alley?

This post was edited by itguy08 on Sun, Dec 8, 13 at 23:20

    Bookmark   December 8, 2013 at 11:19PM
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Itguy08 I just had a phone call from algore. He wants to be your friend.

    Bookmark   December 9, 2013 at 9:20AM
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