Part 4 has gone past the 100 entry cutoff. :)
Please continue posting Asko Washers & Dryers information in this thread...
Here is a link that might be useful: ASKO Washers & Dryers - Part 4
Hey there spewey,
Yes, I actually ran an empty load first, as the washer was sitting for a few months while I was getting the room ready. My first load (jeans) was run right after that. I didn't notice a lot of residual detergent, but there were some bubbles. Maybe that was due to the fact that I've been doing my laundry in commercial machines for the past year. :)
I am still amazed the way my clothes look after washing; my opinion is that they look better than when they were being washed at the laundromat.
Anyway, i've done about 20 loads since November 20th and so far so good.
For those that are having issues, I'm sorry to hear about that. I know that I would not be very happy with a non working machine after spending all that money. I hope that things get worked out quickly for you.
Sheesh, there is no 100-post limit.
No reason to create new threads just for the sake of having a new thread. This could have carried on in part 4 for another year or so.
Sorry Spewey..TJ usually catches these and stops them at the 100 post cutoff so when he didnt do it i figured he was away and did it myself....:(
Threads have been increased to 300 from 100. Posts have been increased to 1000 from 300. Lots more room now!!
Thanks for the explanation, Bruce...wasn't aware of that and didn't want anything to happen to the Asko topics....is there a mod in the house to make a few deletions?? ;)
I wouldn't worry to much about it. I learned of the size increase by contacting the web administrator after noticing threads going well past 100. If they notified users of the increase, I didn't see it.
I'm still here, but was aware of Forum size and thread size increases as well...
Not sure where to post 4 or 5. But here goes.
Just had my first repair for my asko 781 dryer. Needed a fuze bypass. Did anyone ever know that in the back of the dryer there is a air intake spot that was so full of lint and stuff. I have never heard about this in any post. It was very thick and the washer dryer set is 2 years old. Just thought I would let everyone know it might be something to check. The repair man said he doesn't thing this had anything to do with the problem because we all know about the fuze trouble. Just a thought?%0
Hi Guys in ASKO Land! I had my ASKO clothes dryer fully cleaned including the heating coils. The clothes dryer internal ducts, sensor and fan have been cleaned. Now everything works like a charm. I've had my units since 2001 with no problems. I would highly recommend ASKO to other people. Close to my home is appliance recycle warehouse. Miles & Miles of 3-4yr old American top-loader Brands that have died. I asked the guy if he had gotten in any Euro-Brands. He said yes, a few Miele's he thought they were cheap-expensive junk! I saw a lot of Bosch dishwashers that were also waiting to be recycled.
I'm sorry for those of you who have been having problems with your Askos... I've had my 6761 and matching 761 dryer for just over 3 years now, and they've been working well.
A few fixes were needed: a fuse bypass, broke a drive belt in the dryer (my fault), and I had some dead pixels on my dryer LCD which required a replacement of the LCD panel. But other than that, it's all working as expected.
Also, why is there a 100 post limit to threads? Seems kind of silly...
As noted above, there is no 100-post limit to threads.
My 4 yr-old dryer is thumping. Does any one know what could the problem be? Drum roller or out-of-roundness drum?
To replace the rollers, do you have to take the whole back panel off? Can someone please provide step by steps to replace them? Thanks.
Just wondering, should we continue to post on Part 5 because it may be less confusing or go back to Part 4 until it is filled?
Just reporting that after I took the dryer apart and cleaned everything I could see, including the coils, the dryer is back in action. No more overheating/resetting issues. BTW, does anyone have any info on the "humping" sound of the dryer? Out of round?
We are still loving the machine after 5 or so years.
Well, after reading this forum for over a year, I have finally made my decision, and my Askos are coming tomorrow. It looked like the good comments have outweighed the bad, and I really wanted high heat. The fact that I lived in Sweden for a year also swayed me to this direction! I have one question. I didn't buy pedestals, but in reading the online manuals, it says that the drain hose should be maximum 36 inches from the bottom of the machine. I am assuming this means basically the floor. Well, my drain outlet in the wall is about 40 inches off the floor. Is this going to be a big problem? Thanks in advance for your help.
Congratulations on your Asko purchase -- I think you'll fall in love with them in no time.
I've posted some figures from an Australian consumer magazine in another thread. In Australia both toploaders and frontloaders (including Asko) are sold.
Here is a link that might be useful: Beware of Asko clothes washers
Has anyone here had the V-Ring replaced on their Asko Washer? If so what was the symptom and did the repair fix it? I've had no real issues for the past 6 months with my 6761 washer, but recently it started to make a very loud vibrating type sound during the spin cycle (with and without a load of clothes). It's VERY loud during the last minute of a 1600 RPM spin. Washer is level (this was confirmed by the repair guy). He called Asko tech support while he was here diagnosing the problem and the rep recommended he replace the V-Ring.
The part should be here in a few days, but this repair will require the washer to be taken apart since the drum has to be removed. Before I go ahead with the attempted fix I just want to make sure there isn't something simpler that could be causing this.
Thanks for your help.
...and here's a bit of a repair horror story.
My Asko T761 dryer left side panel was vibrating horribly when the dryer was running. Asko tech support suggested that the tech remove the panels, readjust them, and retorque the screws. Well, what did the guy do? He adjusted and reinstalled the panels..AND he then proceeded to superglue the left and right side vent covers in place so they would not rattle either.
Needless to say I am not a happy camper. I called the repair company but never heard back so I also called Asko and filed a grievance with them against the repair company. I had them add to my customer record that I do not want this company replacing the V-Ring on my washer as well as requesting that I receive a brand new replacement dryer. The case has been escalated to Asko management.
I'll keep you posted....what a fiasco. :(
Superglue? My god! Where is Donald Trump when you need him -- so many people in this world need to be fired so badly.
Yeah, tell me about it. I know asking for a new dryer was silly but I was a bit annoyed. All I want is to have the stainless steel side panels and the vent covers replaced along with the dryer door handle that they somehow gouged while repairing the inner door panel. Seems this guy really didnt have any common sense. He stacked all the replacement parts and his clipboard on my washer when he arrived, scratching the hell out of the stainless steel.:( As of right now, I'm waiting for a call back from both the repair company and Asko. Needless to say, I still love my Asko set...I think I'll go do some laundry while I wait. :)
Just turn away and don't look at the scratches LOL...
LOL. The units are usually stacked so the top scratches aren't going to be an issue for me. I'm annoyed, but not as much as I am about the superglue. :)
As for the washer, I looked at the repair part they sent and it's called a 'sealing cartridge'. It replaces the older V-Ring cartridges on some machines. Anyone have a clue as to whether this might solve my loud vibrating noise during spins?
Need help with my Asko T701 dryer. Today the start button won't work. If I hold it down the dryer will spin, but the start button won't stay depressed. Can tape the start button down and the machine will spin for an hour but there isn't any heat and the dish towels won't dry. (Had a small load of light-weight dish clothes and towels.)
The machine is 2.5-years-old and was purchased new from a local appliance dealer. (They also installed it).
Do clean the lint trap thoroughly after every load.
This is the first problem.
Will call the local Asko distributor and the dealer on Monday - but in the interim, any suggestions?
Your dryer is under warranty (yes, even after 2 1/2 years!), so your repair should be covered. Explain the situation carefully so they can bring the right replacement part.
There is an overheat switch in the back that you might try to press and see if it does anything, otherwise I would wait for service.
spewey and sshrivastava,
Thanks for the prompt responses and advice. I looked for the overheat switch in the back and pressed it. Am on my third load in the dryer and everything is back to normal.
I appreciate your help.
Has anyone here tried ecoVantage detergent sold by Asko and its dealers? In doing some cursory research online, it has gotten some good reviews and I'm intrigued by its being friendlier to the environment as well as being concentrated (120 loads in a 7lb. box) and containing an oxygenated bleach like Persil and other "color safe bleach" products.
Just an update on my W6761 Washer issues/repair...
About five months after installing the washer I started to notice a sqeaking noise during wash cycles when the drum was spinning clockwise. A few months later I also started hearing a loud vibration/hum during spin cycles.
Asko said that this was an issue with the V-Ring and they sent a replacement to the service tech. I just had it replaced today (pretty much disassembled the entire washer to install it) and I am happy to say that the sqeaking as well as the hum are gone. It appears that the part, called a sealing cartridge (item number 8801276), was redesigned at some point. My washer was built in 2003 and had a plastic disc. The new version is all metal.
Hope this helps anyone who might be experiencing similar issues.
Okay, I have a weird issue with my T761 dryer... the digital programmable one. I went to change the program today -- wanted to turn off the buzzer and increase the anti-crease to 2 hours, and the options weren't there!!! This is contrary to what it says in my user manual, and contrary to what I was able to do with the units just over a year ago (haven't needed to change settings until now)... um?
A service tech noticed some dead pixels in the display about a year ago, and replaced the LCD panel, and I wonder if he did something that screwed up the computer or he replaced the circuit board with a different one? Does anyone know anything about this?
This is SO WEIRD... does anyone have access to an Asko service manual or CD -- is there a way to reset the computer on the dryer, i.e., give it a hard reboot or something?
Hi there...Sorry to hear about your issues. I just checked my T761 and the options for turning off the buzzer as well as the ability to extend the anti-crease are there.
Re: the sealing cartridge, I hope that resolves your squeaking. I've done four loads since the repair and my wash cycles are quiet again. :)
Re: my spin cycle vibration/noise issues, they're still there. As a test, I gently pushed up on the porthole as the washer was in high speed spin cycle and the noise disappeared. Once I let go it was back. Needless to say, I'll be taking another half day from work tomorrow to greet the repairman when he arrives. Yes, I love my Asko washer.......when it's working, that is. :(
Okay, I'm a bigger airhead than the lady at Asko in Texas -- can you say USER ERROR? I thought the buzzer on/off and anti-crease were available simply by cycling thru the options using the menu button, but you actually have to press enter when you get to the options section and then the buzzer and anti-crease become available. I swear as I get older I get dumber. So nothing wrong with my dryer after all.
As far as the "squeeking", I can't really say that it's loud or bothersome -- I actually have to listen for it, otherwise everything else is fine. I am having 2nd thoughts about having a tech come out and fiddle with a unit that is working perfectly... I'm afraid he'll screw something up and then I'll have a horror story on my hands.
When the unit spins, it is rather loud and I can't say that it sounds any different than it did from the first day I bought it, how does yours sound?
LOL...well, glad that you dont need a repair on the dryer!
As for the squeaking, it wasn't too bothersome and I was going to live with it. The excessive vibrating and spin noises, however, were just too much to ignore. I didn't want my washer to be ripped apart completely (which it was)but the Asko tech told my repair guy that the sealing cartridge replacement should resolve everything.
I will just have to wait and see what needs to be replaced next.
(re-posting; somehow made it into old asko part iv)...
Not always draining fully - and NO coins in lint trap
I cannot debug this problem: occassionally when I put clothes into the washer, I realized there is some water at the bottom of the drum. I clean the lint trap but find there are absolutely no coins there, which would potentially block the water.
I'm thinking it's either that one of the other cycles that I use occasionally like the WOOL/HAND WASH is broken?
I also notice that my detergent drawer, that much of the time there is leftover water in the 3rd/fabric softener compartment. This happens more frequently than the left over water.
There were some posts in thread #4 about someone's Wool/Hand wash cycles being broken and he ended up having to replace the whole machine because it wasn't fixable -- supposedly those two cycles never worked to begin with.
May wanna scroll back through that thread. It was the guy with all of the service issues.
Here's a follow-up to my current W6761 saga....
It's been two weeks since the Sealing Cartridge was replaced in order to resolve my drum squeak and the LOUD ticking/tappin/vibration noise during spin cycles. The squeaking is now back; the ticking noise never went away. I can deal with the squeaking, but the spin cycle noise is so loud that I can hear it from my upstairs bedroom with the door shut. Asko has sent the same repair guy here twice since then, and although he hears the noise, he has never heard an ASKO washer in a spin cycle so he cannot say it is or isnt normal. He has called Asko's tech support line over a half dozen times (speaking to Jason each time) and Jason claims the washer is supposed to be noisy during the spin. When told that the noise wasn't there 5 months ago when the washer was first installed, Jason says that after the break in period, the machine will get noisier. I have heard many brands of washers in their spin cycles and none are as loud as this. I do understand that a washing maching spinning at 1200-1600 RPM's will not be whisper quiet, but it shouldn't force you to leave the room because you can't hear the person on the other end of the phone. I remember what it used to sound like..the whirring of the motor and the turbine-like sounds of the high speed spin. This is nothing like that.
I've called Customer Service many times since then and I receive conflicting opinions (while my washer is being run in the background). Some reps claim that the noise is normal while others can't believe the extreme noise coming from it and tell me that it definitely isn't normal. I was informed today that a supervisor will be calling me tomorrow. Hopefully this person can help point me in the right direction to get this resolved. I can definitely say that the reps at Asko that I've spoken to thus far have been pleasant to deal with and sensitive to my issues. I just wish I could get this problem resolved. :)
More tomorrow once I get more info.
It seems W6761 is not available and replaced by W6461.
The 6461 is a lower-end model, the high end models were discontinued here and are only available in Europe.
Rich, keep us posted -- I'm very curious as to what you learn!
I'll let you know what happens with my "upgrade" ... LOL ... I'm almost afraid to have it done only to find out the tech forgot to tighten a screwn and then my machine will blow up.
Hey Rich -- so the vibration was the porthole door or seal eh? Hopefully that should be pretty easy to replace, but I wonder if that is just one of those things that slightly loosens up over time and things just get noiser -- maybe this is what Asko was referring to?
My tech is coming out tomorrow or Friday, I don't remember, so I'll post about what comes out of that "upgrade" and what, if anything, needed to be replaced.
Yup. it looks to be the porthole door that's tapping against the backplate during spin cycles. It *should* be an easy fix. Definitely keep us posted about what your tech finds. If you don't mind, ask him if he's ever come across the porthole door vibration issue before.
I am reposting here, I got caught up in thread #4.
I have a W620, its been running great for approx. 7 years. A week ago, it stopped running and the control dial stopped at S (for service call). I can start any cycle and the unit will fill with water as it should, however, when it attempts to tumble, nothing happens. The dial revolves to S and all things stop. I had a technician come by to eval and he said the motor was shot. Does this sound like a reasonable explanation? Is the motor repair something that I, a high functioning DIY, can do myself? I appreciate any input.
Thanks for the quick response from someone that sounds like a yogi.
Well, I got my "upgrade" today... LOL... it took 10 min. and consisted of a new motor!
The tech quickly isolated the squeeking noise to the motor's clockwise rotation, and when he pulled it out we could hear the squeeking simply by turning it manually, so he put in a new one and voila! Problem solved. He had to take the belt off and put it back on in order to access the motor, and now I can hear a slight "shooshing" noise coming from the belt -- but that happened when I got a new belt for my dryer too, and it subsided as soon as the belt established a new wear pattern.
Anyhow, the pump is built like a tank. I had no idea something of this heft and caliber of build quality goes into a washing machine -- I definitely have a new respect for Asko. The tech told me that they sell A LOT of Asko, and that they are as reliable as Miele or any other brand. The build quality between Asko and Miele, according to my tech anyway, is comparable and he says that Miele is not any more reliable than Asko. He also mentioned that a lot of the maintenance issues you read about online are most often caused by user error, improper installation, or improper use.
The motor, by the way, is warranted for 5 years.
"Well, I got my "upgrade" today... LOL... it took 10 min. and consisted of a new motor!"
I'm a little confused, you previously wrote in another thread:
"They said several component upgrades were made to the machines since I purchased my 6761 in 2003 (v-ring sealing cartridge, motor, and pump) and they preferred to come out and replace all of those items to make sure I had the most up-to-date upgrades in my machine.
NOW THAT'S SERVICE!
Even though it's working fine, on March 3rd my Asko 6761 will be UPGRADED to the latest and greatest by one of Phoenix's best Asko techs... now, has anyone ever heard of an appliance manufacturer going to such lengths to willingly "upgrade" anything inside of a customer's machine?"
So I'm assuming they didn't replace the v-ring sealing cartridge and pump like they previously informed you they would?
The tech did a close inspection of the unit and told me that the motor was the only component that needed to be changed.
The tech had on his truck a new motor, pump, and sealing cartridge. Upon closer inspection of my machine, he said that the only component that needed to be changed out was the motor. I pointed out a minor squeeking noise that I was having as well, and he said the new motor should take care of that, and it did.
The new motor is built like a rocket compared to the old motor, and the tech said that it was totally redesigned.
I'm happy. Still confused?
I'm no longer confused. My assumption was correct that Asko bailed out of replacing the other two components they previously promised you they would handle. Typical lip service many companies give you before the time comes to actually deliver the goods!
Good luck with your Asko in the future and its newly designed "rocket" motor, complements of JPL. LOL
Wonder if FL without "rocket" motors will have shorter life like older Asko. LOL.
IMO. The motor is usually the most robust electro-mechanical component in a machine.
hbw248, you certainly do make a lot of assumptions.
Hey Rich, so what's up with your machine?
Sorry for not reporting in sooner. When I spoke too my repair guy on Friday night he told me that he talked to Asko that morning and was told to replace the retaining clips for the (porthole) door backplate. He stopped by first thing yesterday (Saturday) to replace them. The tapping noise is gone. :) My washer is working and sounding great!
Just waiting now for the new left and right dryer side panels to replace the ones that the last tech glued the vent exhaust covers to, and a new washer control panel cover that broke as the tech was removing it during the service to replace the sealing cartridge.
We have an old stacking GE washer/dryer combo in our place now. Are the Asko's quieter? We have noticed the Miele/Bosch/Asko dishwashers are quieter than the typical American ones....is the same true of the washer/dryers ?
Rich, will they replace your motor since your squeeking noise is back? In my case, it was definitely the motor... I'm glad you are getting your stuff taken care of, and it sounds like Asko is doing their part to take care of you.
I'm a happy camper as well, and am glad to know what was causing the loud vibration noise during your spin -- if it ever happens to me, I'll know what to ask for! Gotta love this forum! :)
Johann8, the Askos are very quiet during the wash but probably not any quieter than most quality front loaders. I would say the spin is pretty loud, although I don't have anything else to compare it to. It sounds like a helicopter in my laundry room! LOL
Hi there ss...
Thanks for the message. The squeaking has not been happening for about 4 days now. I was hoping that the guys would be able to hear it yesterday so I could work on getting the motor replaced but there was no noise. The tech did say that if the squeaking does come back he has no problem replacing my motor since that appears to have corrected your issue.
I am glad that they replaced my sealing cartridge, however, since the one that was installed from the factory was in need of replacement (the two plates which are glued together separated). All is well for now tho. I've done three loads of laundry today and each time I didn't even hear the washer finish. :) That's a good thing!
As for the question regarding how quiet the washer is, well, I have nothing to compare it to except the frigidaire top loader that was in my condo when I bought it. Compared to that, my Asko is whisper quiet. LOL
In all seriousness, though, the wash cycle is quiet. All I hear is the sloshing of water as the drum rotates. The spin cycle is a bit loud, but not bad..these high spin front loaders sound like a jet turbine engine as they increase RPM's, but it's a cool sound..I don't consider it noisy at all. :)
Enjoy the weekend, ss.
Wonder what type of motor is used in these Asko FL:
a) DC series motor with brushes,
b) DC brushless motor, or
c) 3-phase AC induction motor.
(a) is the most noisy because of its brush and commutator. Used by most older FLs
(c) is the most quiet and robust. Used by most newer FLs.
AC motor with brushes, Seven. This is what a majority of older European Fls used too. A lot of older FLs used to use brushless induction motors but technology back in the 80s didn't allow these to spin faster than 800rpm or so, thus the change to AC motors with brushes to give higher spins along with other manufacturers who already offered higher spins with AC brushed motors.
DC motors with brushes are actually pretty quiet (this is what Miele use in the majority of the range). Asko's I have seen/heard have always been a fair bit noisier in comparison than Miele's or AEG's, and definitely aren't whisper quiet even in the wash like my AEG and Miele are, and definitely not as quiet in the spin. However, they are still fairly quiet in comparison to a lot of other modern FLs, in fact I would say about average.
I think one of the reasons as to why they are louder is that noise can escape through the gap between the unit and the outer tub; the drop down door models help to insulate noise somewhat in this manner.
FWIW, the new 1800rpm Askos and Maytag-Askos available in Europe have a brushless motor, however still not as quiet as Miele, AEG or Siemens equivalents.
Here is a link that might be useful: Asko W6782
Aquarius: Is there a way to tell if the motor is brushless or not?
Rich: Glad to hear you got your problems solved! It helps when things work properly. :)
Yes. If it has brushes, it's brushed, if it has brushes it's brushless :-).
Well, I looked at the motor when it was in my hand and I didn't see any brushes... would it be obvious, or would I have to disassemble it to know?
d) "brushless induction motors"
e) "AC motor with brushes"
Jon, glad that you pointed out these other two types of motors used in early washers.
d) is a single-phase induction motor whose speed is practically constant. It is very difficult to apply this induction motor in its simple form for FL because the tumble speed is very low (say 50rpm) and the spin speed is high (say 500rpm). The speed ratio between tumble and spin is 10 or over. A motor with pole-changing method is used to achieve this. No electronic is needed. However it is still very difficult to achieve a speed ratio of more than 10. The H-axis washer that I owned in 70's used this type of pole-changing induction motor and had a single spin speed of about 400-500 rpm.
This type of motor is nearly as quiet and robust as 3-phase motor. But it would cost at least twice that of 3-phase
The simple induction motor is still widely used in nowaday TL because TL does not require a large speed ratio.
(e) is also known as "universal" motor because it could work in AC and DC supply. It has a similar construction as an DC series motor which has brushes and commutators. Brushes and commutators are wear-n-tear items and generates a lot of noises. This universal motor could work easily with a speed ratio of 10 or more. It could provide variable tumble and spin speeds. It only need simple series resistor to adjust the speed. There is no need of any electronics device.
a) DC series motor with brushes has better performance than AC universal motor in terms of speed ratio and starting torque. But it require simple power electronics device for speed control.
b) DC brushless motor is a further improvement over DC series motor by eliminating the brushes and commutators. But it requires a more complicate power electronics device for speed control.
c) 3-phase motor is the least expensive motor. But it is the most robust. It requires the most expensive power electronics invertor control for variable speed control which is very costly prior 2000. With the advent of power electronics, its cost is not a concern at all. The total cost of the 3-phase motor and the power electronics invertor control is the lowest. So almost all modern FL use this type of motor.
"Is there a way to tell if the motor is brushless or not?"
Yes, there is a lot of friction between the brushes and commutator and is noiser when turned. But it is difficult to distinguish if it is attached to the drum.
I had the new motor in my hand... the motor turned effortlessly as if the spindle were floating. The assembly that rotated had a lot of copper wires wrapped around it, and the whole thing was pretty darned heavy (I'd say about 20 lbs.).
Is it fair to assume this is a brushless design?
Only the new 1800rpm Askos (or Maytag-Asko's as they are known in the UK) have the brushless DC motor. The 1600rpm and under models, and all older models, have a standard brushed motor.
Are you sure about that? Because I could not see or hear any brushes in this motor -- it was silent and VERY easy to turn with barely a touch.
Yeah, all the older pre-1800rpm Asko models had brushed motors, although motors can still be brushed and smooth to turn (Miele and BSH motors are the same). However, it may be possible that your motor might have been upgraded to brushless, although I doubt it as brushless motors require more sophisticated electronics.
Well crap, I should have just asked the tech when he was out here! LOL...
Oh well, whatever it is, I hope it lasts as many years as it weighs in pounds!
"brushless motors require more sophisticated electronics."
This is complete valid. However, due to advent of power electronics and control, the total cost of brushless motor and its sophisticated power electronic control is lower than that of a DC brushed motor and its simpler electronic motor control.
"the motor turned effortlessly as if the spindle were floating."
Sounds that it is a brushless motor.
Please don't worry too much about the type of motor. A well made DC brush motor could last in term of decade year while 3-phase motor could outlast the expected life of any washers.
The other day I disassembled our defunct Asko 20004 into piece parts for easier removal & recycling. You can really appreciate how well made it was once you take it apart. You can see that little expense was spared in it's construction. I'm sure it had it's issues on certain design elements (like maybe it's electronics were too complex for it's own good), but it is sturdy without question.
I saved a couple of pieces for now. Anyone interested in the motor, extraction pump, or the upper circuit board which controlled the display and user interface. I also saved the main control board, but I'm less certain this one is 100% OK. The pump was a replacement part from about 5 years ago. The parts are in the Boston area for anyone who might be interested.
I owned 2 complete ASKO washer/dryer sets in the past 10 years. Both drove me crazy with repairs, etc...
First I was so excited and proud to have my European machine that heated up water and REALLY got clothes clean... but I have now decided that big, ol' American models are a much better buy.
Final straw came with Asko washer repair that would have been exhorbitatnly expensive because they would have had to take the entire machine apart.
Bought a Kenmore after that and have been soooo happy
Do you still have the top of the exterior? I need one. I might beinterested in other spare parts as well.
Sorry - all metal parts other than what I listed were put in the metal recycle at the local transfer station. The parts where thrown in 10 minutes before the transfer station closed this past Sat, so I suppose one could try and fish them out when it reopens on Tuesday. The 4 sides had to be cut apart because they are welded together, but the top went in whole. Contact me at: firstname.lastname@example.org regarding the other parts if your interested.
Catziki - sorry to hear you had so many problems w/ Asko. Prior to it's death, we had only one problem in 13 years and it was half our fault (coins and stuff from kids pockets broke the impeller on the pump). I say it was only half our fault because a better design would have had a screen to keep larger items out of the pump. During these 13 years, half of that time the machine was doing laundry for a household of 5 to 6 people which was often 10 to 14 loads a week. For as much as our Asko provided relatively reliable service and very clean clothes, we didn't replace it with another Asko. We picked up a Danby for $250 which is doing a great job of cleaning our clothing while we eventually remodel the laundry room to make room for a bigger W/D set and a much better layout.
Re: ASKO 20004 died mid cycle, no lights, sounds, nothing...
Is there a fuse tucked away inside somewhere, perhaps a motor overload (thermal) fuse underneath on the motor that can be reset?
I've emailed GordonR while waiting to be validated to use this forum to see if his recent recycling efforts provided any helpfull insights, but he hasn't had a chance to reply, yet.
Thanks for any useful advice...
Bill K. in Sydney, Australia
If the dryer is also dead, you may have tripped your breaker.
I didn't want to start a new thread, but I am bored with Tide HE Powder. Has anyone used liquid HE in their Asko? I did sort of glance through the quick start and it seemed to say only use powder, but there is that key thingy underneath that I think is to be used in the dispenser with a liquid.
Stick with powder? I just want to try new products and I can only find Tide HE powder and Ecovantage? that they sell at the Asko dealer.
Tide HE liquid works great in my Asko, I put that little divider into the detergent dispenser and it works like a charm.
I use ecoVantage and have had good results with that, but it is on the pricey side.
Re: dead ASKO 20004
Thanks for the reply, sshrivastava. Yeah, that's how I know the washer is getting power, because the dryer works fine off the same power recepticle. I've checked continuity with my VOM through the circuitry accessible from the top of the machine, no open circuits topside.
I was hoping for some shared insight about what lies beneath the drum from you ASKO experts who post regularly to this thread, before diving into the bottom of the machine...
The machine died with a very full load of clothes that had been rained on while hanging on the clothesline outside. My daughter had crammed everything she could into the drum to run the wet clothes through a spin cycle prior to putting them in the electric dryer. This is why I'm suspecting a motor overload may have tripped whatever there is for overload protection. She definitely had too much packed into the drum.
Thanks, again, for your thoughts on the subject.
Anyone out there familiar with the construction of the ASKO T761 Dryer? My service tech came out to replace the stainless side panels (left and right) but was unable to do so. He claims that a metal punch was used at the factory to attach the lower part of the panels to the dryer base and he is unable to duplicate that technique.
My service tech came out to replace the stainless side panels (left and right) but was unable to do so. He claims that a metal punch was used at the factory to attach the lower part of the panels to the dryer base and he is unable to duplicate that technique.
Call the Asko toll-free support line to verify this. This sounds suspicious to me. On my T701, the panels are attached by Torx screws. I can't see Asko making them permanently fixed.
Hi spewey. Thanks for the reply..my service tech was supposed to have called tech support (they were closed when he came to do the repair) and find this out....the service company hasn't been returning any calls so I figured I would try it myself. I have called ASKO multiple times and each time the person I spoke to told me they dont know and that I should contact an ASKO service center for repair....it's been a nightmare. Guess I should contact ASKO and request they send another repair company. :-\
Hey Rich, Asko finally gave me my "upgrade" to fix my squeak. The tech was going to do this in the first place, but replacing the motor seemed to fix the squeak so we left it at that... a few days later the squeak reappeared, but this time during high speed spin, so the tech came back and did everything -- upgraded the v-ring thing and replaced some bearing "kit".
New motor, new "bearing kit", new v-ring -- sounds like a lot, but hey, it doesn't squeak anymore! :)
S.0.S. Do I call plumber first, or Asko repair first?
My washer did not drain properly. I had experienced
left over water in the washer in the past but could
never figure it out. There were no coins in the lint
trap or any thing like that.
In this particular case, I started to hear some drips
on the first floor from the upstairs. Was able to
stop the machine in time, sop up the mess but don't
know if I should call Roto Rooter or Asko?
Anyone have some numbers for San Francisco Bay Area
Asko repair people? Peninsula area specifically?
Thanks for any help.
Hey there sshrivastava,
The squeak came back? That's kinda funny that replacing the motor helped for a few days. It's good you finally had the Vring replaced. Looks like you pretty much have a new washer. LOL
If you talk to your service guy anytime soon, I'd be interested in getting the part number for the bearing kit and what it does. At this time once I get the dryer back to 100% working order I'm kicking out the service provider ASKO sent me, "Mr. Appliance", and getting a local ASKO authorized tech that I just located on my own.
Talk to ya soon.
krystyna4, a faulty washer should not by itself cause drips through your ceiling. It sounds like you have a blocked drain outside the machine somewhere, and this is also affecting your machine's ability to drain. If so, this is a problem for a plumber.
Can you see if the water is simply coming back up where the drain hose enters the drain? Sometimes there are problems at that point, for example the drain hose kinking or sitting too high. Can you try draining into something else temporarily, like a large tub or plastic trash can? - DR
Thanks DR.. it is hard to see back there. i have the w/dryer
stacked. But here is something interesting i found: it seemed to be the front of the unit that got lots of water--the rug was soaked. I surmised that it could have been that little drain hose/pin trap area from which the water was coming from.
My theory is that I had not tightened the trap knob and/or the outlet tubing got crimped.
I ran a quick test of a rinse and saw no water this a.m.
I then added a few pairs a sox through the quick wash. Then successively heavier weighted loads. I see NO water coming
out. It had to be the entrance to the pin trap.
However I still see ocasional standing water -- enough to soak a small towel that I have thrown dry into the
washer drumm. I check immediately after a cycle is completed
and never see the water. It shows up a day or two later.
So th eimmediate problem was either my not having tightened
the pin trap outlet. I am now leaving that little door opened because I don't know if that tube crimped is/was the problem.
It's not normal for water to show up a few days after it's been drained out. But similarly, the washer must have a protection valve to keep water from reversing back into the unit -- so something is definitely amiss.
I don't know the part number for the bearing kit, sorry, and I'm keeping my fingers crossed that I never have to see the service man again! :)
The initial squeak occurred during the wash as the drum rotated, and when he removed the old motor I could hear the squeak as I turned the shaft slowly. After the new motor was installed, voila, squeak gone! Then 3 days later a new squeak (more like a high pitched metallic sound) occurred but only during sping somewhere between 1000 and 1200 RPM. That's when they came back and replaced the v-ring and bearing kit -- the machine was totally disassembled -- and now it works fine.
Oh, this might be interesting to some. When you open up the 6761, underneath the circuit board is a wiring diagram that also details the different RPMs and tumble/still times for the various cycles. It also shows which jumper to cut in order to enable the US feature set -- if it's not cut, then you get the Euro feature set which does 3 rinses with 3 interim spins (instead of 2 spins). With that feature set and the "extra rinse" selected, you'll get 5 rinses with 3 interim spins -- 2 fewer rinses than the US feature set, but 1 additional interim spin.
In my case, if I wanted those features, I'd have to somehow reconnect the jumper that was cut... and it wasn't worth the effort. I also believe that in the Euro feature set you can change the temperature in 1C increments versus the US which has 7 choices.
Yes,sshrivastava, I intend to have service over for this issue
and will update the forum with findings. Thanks!
Asko W 660 washer will not come on. Was running last night. Wife turned breaker off and on. Dryer works. Control panel does not light up. Is there a fuse or breaker or reset button on the washer?
I got the W6021 & T711 installed yesterday. I was so excited to use the machines and to catch up on all my piles of laundry. I did two loads of laundry last night, and two more today. All seemed well--the washer was loud as heck, but the clothes were coming out really clean, and the combination wash + dry time wasn't as long as I'd feared.
Today I washed my two small bathmats and put them in the dryer. I set it on "low" because the mats aren't supposed to get too hot. It took forever for them to dry, so I changed the setting to normal. After an hour, they still weren't dry. I did a little experimentation and realized that although the dryer motor was running, the drum wasn't spinning--I had a broken belt! After 2 days and 4 loads of laundry!!
The first time I called ASKO, they sent me back to my installer. My installer said that they stand by their work & because it was a belt problem, I had to go back to ASKO. I called again & the woman was very apologetic & scheduled a local repair person to call me on Monday.
And I still have a load of sheets in the washer that I can't dry yet!!!
I hope that it's just a dryer belt problem and that it wasn't caused by the washer not spinning enough water out of the load, and then a heavy load leading to a broken belt...
The repairperson came today & changed the belt. He says that it was the bath mats that killed it, and that I can't put too much in the dryer. I thought this was kind of weird b/c I always put the bathmats in my old crappy Kenmore 70 series washer & dryer and never had a problem (except that they didn't get very clean). I would have thought that the ASKO dryer would be sturdier tougher than the Kenmore!
So, anyone have other advice on how NOT to kill my dryer again? I want to wash my lightweight down duvet, but now I am afraid putting the duvet in the dryer and blowing another belt.
I also killed the belt of my Asko dryer with bath mats. I don't think that you "overloaded" your dryer, necessarily. My tech said that the rubber backing of the bath mats sometimes wedge themselves between the rotating and non-rotating part of the drum, causing the drum to jam and the belt to essentially burn through and snap.
My Asko would trip the breaker on the back quite often. Sometimes, the door would pop open in the middle of a cycle with throw rugs or jeans flopping out on the floor.
I don't miss that one bit.
Looks like I wont be buying the "laundry pair" My sister has the Kenmore Elite Oasis and since our dryer broke down. We have been running to her laundry to dry ours. We have had our Kemores for 25 years and 3 repairs.Yes "3" repairs family of 4.
I can name them transmission coupling, and two belts for the dryer. The drum in washer is showing a slight rust mark from wear. The bearing is sqeeling on the dryer. Time to upgrade and its front load all the way.
After much research on this subject I will go with the Asko 6461 and pair it up with the Oasis dryer. I do not care if they match. I care how they work.
Thanks to all for the this informative forum.
Thanks Sshrivastava for the info about the bath mats. Who knew they could cause such problems? Fortunately, they air-dry quickly, so it's not a big deal to keep them out of the dryer.
Now I have to start researching the exciting world of HE detergents and other fun stuff for my new machines.
BTW, I kind of wish I could have paid the extra for the 6461--the "time left" countdown would be a cool option.
The only reason to pair machines - besides cosmetics - is wiring considerations; to pair an Asko washer with a US dryer means you need two separate 240V lines into the laundry room, while an Asko pair just needs on such line.
You might wait on that Oasis dryer until Whirlpool starts producing/installing the new control boards - surely you've seen the thread where numerous owners had to exchange their dryers multiple times. It sounds like a great dryer when it works.
Another interesting dryer is the F&P top-loading dryer. I think it would be amusing to have a FL washer and TL dryer! - DR
This is about the 4th time (over a long period) that I've noticed small spots on my white clothes that look like rust. It's mostly on cotton: tank tops, capris, and I'm not sure if it's from the washer or the dryer, since I don't notice them until I take them out of the dryer. Anyone have any ideas on this one? Either what problem is or how to get them out??? Thanks!
I would check to see if there's anything in your environment that might be splattering onto the clothes prior to putting them in the wash -- such as acne medication or cleansers containing benzoyle peroxide. This is notorious for causing mysterious "spotting" on laundry.
Thanks for the thought. The clothing is kept in a cloth hamper (uncolored) until ready for the washer, and there isn't anything near that could come in contact with it. I'd suspect the hot water heater (although new)if ASKO didn't make it's own. We have city water...I also have our old W&D in the basement that I still use, and I've never had that problem with those. Fortunately the things that have been affected haven't been very pricey, but I'm kind of afraid to put some of my better things in!! Any other ideas from anyone??
The clothes could be splattered with things like benzoyle peroxide BEFORE they get into the hamper. See if there is a pattern as to where on the clothing this occurs -- above the waist, below the waist, randomly, etc.
I just purchased an Asko W7461 washer and T731 dryer based on all information I got reading this forum. (thanks all!) Anyway, I was in the laundry room when the first (I think) rinse was happening and I heard the detergent dispenser flushing... I peeked inside and saw that the pre-wash compartment was flushing--during the rinse cycle? I was using the Normal-Plus program. Any idea what this is? Is this a secret feature for dispensing bleach when there is no prewash cycle?
The water flushes through the pre-wash compartment in all rinses except the last, which uses the softener compartment.
Thanks for the info, sshrivastava.
I've got a 6 year-old W600 washer that stopped spinning yesterday- it fails to run the spin cycle - we have very poor (rural) service available and I'm hoping to try a diy approach. A few notes:
Took the back panel off - belt is fine.
With all the talk in the user manual about checking the "pin trap" if spin doesn't work I went ahead and looked it over from the inside and found that it is really the drain pump.
Here's what I found:
The drain pump itself seems to drain water fine. When I disconnect the wires going to the drain pump the unit will now spin! but the pump itself isn't powered or working. I figure the pump, when blocked by a coin or something activates a shut-off switch and when I disconnected the wiring the shutoff wasn't active ( but neither was the pump).
As I was getting ready to order a new drain pump for $50 online I ran a few more tests and noticed that the motor seems to be sparking (!?!) at the (not visible) front end. Now that shakes me a bit and from what I hear is a handy pile of $$$ to replace.
Service guy will charge $100 just to come here and he only does ASKOs 2 days a week and is booked for a week. A week without laundry is enough to drive my wife to a new machine and, frankly, if I'm looking at $300-400 in parts I would agree.
Appreciate any of your thoughts.
"The only reason to pair machines - besides cosmetics - is wiring considerations; to pair an Asko washer with a US dryer means you need two separate 240V lines into the laundry room, while an Asko pair just needs on such line."
A typical electric dryer circuit has a 30 amp breaker supporting it and is rated as such. Worst case, you can use the Miele Easy-install box to adapt two outlets with any 220v wash/dry pair if they can be adapted to use the same 4-prong plug typically found on GE stoves. Assuming your washer and dryer are both rated as 15 amps like the Meile set.
If you have natural gas or propane, those can be found with 120v plugs (NEC code requires a dedicated 120v 20A normal wall socket for washing machines. Might use that) and are typically more efficient than the best all-electric.
Are the W6222 & T712 pair available yet?
I saw them on the US website, but I can't seem to get any information on them -- even from this forum!
I saw a picture where there was a pull-out "table" between stacked Asko's (i.e. under the dryer). It was in their 2006 USA catalog.
Is that a component of the stacking kit?
I know that the washer's outer door pulls down to form a flat surface, but the dryer's opens to the left (or right).
Do all models come with this pull-out surface between the stacks, or is it some optional thing I happened to come across?
I recently got a gas dryer installed so it leaves my electric dryer 220v outlet (w/30 amp breaker) open. I have the oppportunity to purchase a used Asko washer -- the owners are getting rid of it because the matching dryer died and they got a new set.
My question: would my 220 outlet have to be refitted with a socket to accept the Akso plug -- or (and this seems simpler and wouldn't require an electrician) could I get a new plug for the washer that fits into the outlet? Is a cord on an Asko washer like many U.S. electric dryers -- they easily unscrewed and replaced with a cord ending in plug with a different socket configuration?
I don't even want to look at the machine before I get this question answered -- and get the model number so I can research it.
BTW, do you think an Asko dealer would sell me shipping bolts if the folks selling the machine haven't kept theirs? I wouldn't want to move it without stabilizing the drum.
I have a question for all the Asko experts! We are looking into purchasing an Asko set but as a family with three small kids $$ is tight, so right now we are looking at 2 used pairs and I would love to hear opinions about which is a better buy or if we should stay away from both!
#1 W6221 and T710 for 250$. They seller says that they purchased this set in December 2001 and the washer needs to be serviced. Haven't gotten back to me yet on WHAT needs to be serviced on the washer.
#2 W6222 and T712 for 550$. Purchased in 2006 and no stated problems. Has optional pedestals for both. Owner wanted a washer with less RPMs. (WHY?!?!?!)
Which would you choose. Obviously #2 is still under warranty and is newer. Any known problems with any of these machines? Is one more quiet than the other? Our laundry is in our kitchen to noise is definitely high on our priority list! Your input is greatly valued!
My asko dryer is squeaking very loudly. We checked the belt it looks ok. Any suggestions?
ohiomomma, I would steer clear of #1 for sure -- without knowing what's wrong with it, your repair bill could be very high.
Regarding #2, the seller's reason makes no sense. The Asko can go from 400 rpm up to 1,600 rpm (or whatever is the top for that model), so there is no such thing as the RPMs being "too high". Check to make sure Asko's manufacturer warranty is transferrable -- it may not be.
I saw this question posted earlier in the thread, but couldn't find an answer.
I am finding water in the fabric softener compartment of my washer after normal cycles. I couldn't find anything in the manual about the blue cap. Is it removed when using fabric softener? For all washes?
Water left in the fabric softener cup is normal, ignore it. The cup works by siphoning, so a little remaining water is just fine. If the the cup still contains undiluted fs, then you need to check that the tiny water outlet above the cup has not become blocked. Run a test load and see (by keeping the drawer partly open that water is entering the cup from above.) If you're not getting water directed down into the cup then try using a toothpick or thin wire to make sure the emitter is not clogged with scale. After checking that, if you're still not getting water you can either take the machine apart yourself to try and resolve the problem or call for service.
I have some water in the FS compartment as well -- it's a very small amount, nothing to worry about, and won't cause any problems.
What model Asko do you have? How are you liking it so far?
Thanks for the advice. I have the W6021. The FS compartment is always at least half full after a wash. When I use fabric softener it is very diluted at the end and appears to be used.
Can anyone tell me what the removable blue cap in the FS compartment is for? Am I ever supposed to remove it or does it time the release?
It's been great so far. Have had the stackable washer and electric dryer for about a month now. I'm just getting used to the ventless dryer and the longer time it takes, but does a nice job cleaning and with the snow and ice outside I appreciate its convenience even more.
I believe the blue cap in the FS compartment is what creates the siphoning effect that releases the FS into the wash. Keep it in place, otherwise your FS won't release properly. The water in the FS compartment is sucked up through the blue cap thing and then drains into the tub through the tube over which the blue cap fits.
Asko makes some nice stuff. But after reading all the threads, I've picked up enough information to stay away from their laundry products. I'll still be picking up an Asko dishwasher though.
Sign number one that you're headed for trouble is that this is the 5th thread on the same topic. Ouch.
Similar to the Fisher and Paykel Dishdrawers, the features and design ideas in Asko's laundry products are desireable and even appealing, but unfortunatelty the overall engineering and robustness just doesn't measure up.
The important trend isn't that some people hate these two brands and some people love them. It's that even the people that love them have had to get them serviced, often multiple times. Sure, stories of wonderful customer support and service experiences are nice to read. But you have to question above all, why so much servicing is required in the first place.
Just not worth the effort and risk at this point. It doesn't seem to be a question of "if" you will need a service call but "when."
I'm sorry to have to drop Asko from my laundry short list. Right now it looks like Miele will get the money if they can release new European-class machines before the fall.
I don't think there's any doubt that Miele is the way to go if you want THE BEST. No question. However, would you count my Asko washer as defective if it had a high pitched squeak during spin that only I could hear? My tech thought I was crazy, but he and Asko replaced multiple components until I was satisfied. I think that's great, and I don't consider my product to have contained a defect -- it functioned perfectly well -- and Asko worked hard to correct my specific issue to my satisfaction.
I'm going on 4 years now with no real defects or problems other than the squeak thing which was resolved a year ago. Asko also gives a 3 year warranty where Miele only offers 1 year. There are threads here of people who didn't like their Mieles either, it's all relative.
II viewed Asko on par with Miele as far as features and wash quality. Maybe even above as per some reports. It's just the failure rate that really ruins an otherwise stellar product line. Even if some of it is due to user error.
I'm pretty sure I had read about more than a squeek problem with your machine sshrivastava. Maybe it just got mixed in with so many other complaints in that thread. :) I know I'd be bothered with a mystery squeek as well.
I thought I just read recently Miele had a 2 year warranty on their machines. Though I can't seem to find any warranty information on their site at all right now. It might have been Canada-only (the country I'm in) but I'm not sure.
We have longer Nikon warranties and shorter Dyson warranties. It's really a toss up.
I hope Asko's engineers figure out all the small issues here and there that are responsible for these complaints and systematically correct them so we may all see a stable and long-lived series of machines come to market soon.
I'd love to have F&P Dishdrawers, but those are especially buggy. So Asko gets my DW business for the same reasons Miele will probably get it in the laundry.
The tail end of your post made me giggle, as I did the same thing but in reverse. Asko got my laundry money and although I was leaning towards an Asko dishwasher initially, I bought a Miele so I could experience "Miele quality". LOL
I have the Asko 6761 washer, which was discontinued in the US and Canada, but is still sold (in a newer revision) elsewhere. It's the model with the large LCD display. I chose it because it gave me very specific control over cycles, temperatures, spin speeds, and showed me the numbers so I knew what I was selecting. My Miele dishwasher, by comparison, shrouds things in mystery -- it has a pasta cycle, a cheese cycle, a pots and pans cycle, normal cycle, etc., but does it tell you what the water temperature of each cycle is? Nope. I had to download the UK manual to get this information. But I digress...
When the tech came out to swap the motor on my Asko washer, I was surprised by how uncomplicated it looked inside. I'm sure there are a lot of components that could go wrong, but in my mind I expected more -- what I saw was pretty much a hollow cabinet with a drum, belt, a circuit board, a pump, and wires. It probably LOOKS simple to someone like me who doesn't know anything about that kind of stuff.
I just bought the W6222/T712 last August. The price you're stating seems awfully low for these two. I got a great price on mine, but still paid $1800 for the pair.
These are new for 2006 models with fully electronic controls.
Why would they be selling the pair so cheaply? That would make me very cautious.
Incidentally, I love my Asko pair so far, and both have been completely trouble-free, and do a great job.
To others, I have water residue in the Fab Soft compartment too after a load. I always pull out the tray and drain it in the sink as a matter of course, but I'm sure it's pretty harmless.
I have a W640 washer that does not drain well. It drains so slowly that the wash cycle gets stuck in the middle of a cycle. Will someone tell me how I can remove the drain hose and unclog it? If I can take the bottom front cover off, I think I can see the connection where the drain hose meets the pump. How do I remove the from cover off? Thanks for your help in advance.
If you can't find the suitable instructions on the AskoUSA web site, write to them and ask for a copy to be emailed (or snail mailed) to you.
Have you checked the pin trap for obstructions?
I am debating between buying an Asko 6461 washer and 731 dryer (drop shipped from CA) or a LG2277 washer (local Home Depot). Two sales people have told me the Asko is only for families that have less than four people in them because the drum is so small. Has anyone foud this to be true? Also, I was told that I had to buy the Asko dryer because the washer will not plug into the standard 220 dryer outlet on the wall. Is this true? Thanks in advance
svinvest - I just switched from the 20605 to the 6461, so I am able to speak from personal experience. I might have agreed with the two sales people had they been talking about the 20605. However, I found the trade off between performance and limited capacity to be well worth it -- so much so that I replaced the 20605 with another ASKO. When I made that decision, I didn't realize that the 6461 has a much greater capacity than did the 20605. I can now do in a single load what I formerly did in two. In fact, I can do in a single load things that I couldn't do in my "extra capacity" top loaders (Maytag, Kenmore, Whirlpool Gold - the Whirlpool was such a dog in terms of performance that I refused to give it away, not even to a stranger).
As for the need to buy an ASKO dryer for the plug, that is a convenience, not a necessity. As I recall (and you can check online for the installation manual), ASKO provides detailed information on what is necessary in terms of electrical supply to install the washing machine without the ASKO dryer. In all likelihood, you will need an electrician to do the work.
I recently developed a weird leak in my 6761 washer, which is 4 years old. I had service come out, he checked all the hoses and could not find anything nor duplicate the problem -- he warranted the service call and said if it still leaks they'll come back out free of charge. Like clockwork, the first load after he left leaked again -- a small amount of water (1/4 cup at most) pools on the floor under the front left corner.
After taking off the top and front panels, running a few loads, and probing into the unit with a flash light, I finally found the culprit -- the large plastic assembly into which you insert the detergent drawer. This assembly is made of two plastic pieces glued together -- the top half, where the water comes in and is distributed through holes, and the bottom half which catches the water and holds the detergent drawer. Over time, the seam between these two plastic pieces warped along the left side, causing water to channel to the front of the assembly and down the metal frame of the washer to the floor. It would drip a little during each fill, and the accumulation after an entire cycle formed a small pool.
I took apart the assembly with three screws, bought some aquarium sealant at the pet store (100% clear silicone), and ran a bead of sealant along the entire length of the seam on both sides. No more leak.
I'm posting this in case anyone else experiences a similar issue.
sshrivastava - thanks for the posting. It will go in my ASKO file for future reference just in case.
Also, like you I opted for the ASKO laundry units and the Miele dishwashers.
We have the an Asko W620 / T700. Purchased December 2000. Wanted to report that we have never had a service call on the washer and had 2 on the dryer - repair of the known fuse issue at about year 2 (covered under warranty) and dryer belt replacement at year 5.
We initially purchased the set based on size restrictions in our old house. It was our first experience with a smaller capacity FL Washer/Dryer. My wife was initially leary about the change from traditional top loading - but she is an ASKO fan now.
Help!! I have an ASKO W6221 and it won't start. This has happened before and it was a dime stuck up in the hole off of the lint trap. Any ideas how to get it out? The repair man last time charged me alot of $$ to do this and I want to do it myself if I can. I am pretty sure that is the problem again, when I pulled out the lint trap I had about 6 pennies and a dime fall out. Thanks!!
I just stopped by to browse and saw this:
"...Close to my home is appliance recycle warehouse...I asked the guy if he had gotten in any Euro-Brands. He said yes, a few Miele's he thought they were cheap-expensive junk! I saw a lot of Bosch dishwashers that were also waiting to be recycled."
and feel the need to stick up for my brand. I researched the heck out of my purchase and it was the non-stop Asko horror stories backed up by tales of dread from my Asko dealer that led me to go with Miele. The opinion of some junk man is hardly definitive proof of anything. Maybe the Miele's were 20 years old? What makes a Miele "cheap" in terms of construction, materials and engineering? Asko's are beautiful machines, perhaps the best looking laundry machines there are, and I would have loved to have purchased them, but face it, they have a very bad rap for issues and that is not a nice thing to hear when you are about to drop a few grand.
WOW..my W6221 just died too. I have been the biggest fan of ASKO but I am starting to question if they are 20 year machines.
The circuit board on the washer just died. Luckily the washer is in the 4-5 year period so we only pay for labor....LOL...only labor...wonder what that will cost? I am guessing your circuit board is bad too. I too had a dime stuck and it wouldn't drain, but not starting is the circuit board. You pust start and it clicks and does nothing...circuit board. Luckily this has been the only repair for the washer.
Now the dryer has had two previous calls for the fuses. When he was out for the washer I told him about the dryer making a sound during drying like someone dropped in a bunch of little steel marbles. He got it to make the noise and it's a bad relay.
Great machines so far, but makes me sad I gave up perfectly good GE top loader and dryer I spent under $600 for and plunked down $1900 for the ASKO set that are having problems before I get to 5 years.
Hey Imacboy! Nice to see you back.
Sorry to hear about your washer's problem.
Thanks Joe...yeah, I have been lurking around for awhile, but fortunately have not had any problems with anything, so had to post what was going on. I sure do love the machines though, just hope this is it for repairs. I am spoiled by them, I can't even think of starting over and finding a new machine, I can't see what would compare...LOL! They clean great! Just hate when high end things go bad = $$$$$$ ; - )
I have had several expensive repairs on my Asko washer and dryer over the past 8 years. They now work fine and the clothes come out very clean. They do wash clothes beautifully and I cannot go back to the machines where you pick "HOT/WARM/COLD" at this point. However, I am in the market for a washer that has the Asko's cleaning capability with better reliability. I am in the market for remodel reasons not W/D reasons.
(larger capacity at this point is a must for my family..) Miele now makes a 4.0 cf capacity machine. Go figure!
I am looking at Bosch Nexxt, Miele with a larger capacity and Whirlpool Duet with internal heater.
The problem with the new breed of machines is that they won't tell you, in any clear way, what temperature you are selecting beyond "hot, warm, cold", etc. That's what I love about my Asko, and presumably the smaller Mieles -- they actually tell you that your clothes will be washed at 120 degrees, 160 degrees, 85 degrees, etc. I can't relate to hot/warm/cold, I want a number!
My Asko is working fine, I'm coming up on 5 years. I have the models with the digital LCD control panel. I recentaly ran a Heavy cycle at 175 degrees and got a drain fault. I checked the pin trap, there were a few coins in there but nothing that would be alarming. I ran the cycle again, and got another drain fault. Checked the pin trap again and it was totally clear. Anyone know what else could cause a drain fault?
Things don't bode well here in the US for machines that actually display the temperature.
None of the current generation US market Miele's (30xx or 48xx series) show the actual temperature, but instead display the typical non-descriptive "cold/warm/very warm/hot" aliases. At least Miele defines those terms with actual temperatures although it's been found the machines don't actually heat to those temperatures in all cycles even though they can be chosen. The front panel picture on the Miele website for the 3033 shows that the actual temps are displayed in at least one non-English language version of the machine. Guess Miele market research has shown us Americans too dumb to actually relate to real temperatures.
The future for Asko with their "coming soon" new big machine (WL6511) is following the standardized American path of showing "cold/warm/warm-warm/hot/extra hot" on the control panel.
Here is a link that might be useful: Miele 3033 Wash Temps
Well two weeks later and they are finally here to fix the fried circuit board and dryer relay. He replaced the circuit board and also noted that some ground motor brush? had to be replaced as that is what fried the circuit board? Anyway, glad they FINALLY came today as I leave for Berlin on Monday. Strange...last trip to Paris, the dryer tanked on me...what is up with that? LOL!
Also watch on your warranty. The tech and the stupid appliance store were both going to bill me for parts. Luckily I am up on manuals and such and had to show them where the warranty shows years 4-5 you only pay service. Jeez. However SO happy to have them back running and NOT going to the laundry mat anymore where my clothes are marginally clean at best. ISH! =
Can you tell us what the service cost was on your repair?
I guess I must lead a charmed life. I bought my Asko W620 washer and T700 dryer more than eight years ago and haven't had any trouble until last week when the washer didn't start. There was no indicator light so I checked for power at the washer receptacle on the dryer and it was okay. I checked the fuses on the washer and both were blown.
I swapped the fuses in the dryer for the washer and they immediately blew upon plugging the washer back into the receptacle.
I took the dryer off the washer (stacked pair) and then opened the top of the washer. I love how the top comes off with only three screws. I did some tests and decided the radio interference filter capacitor was shorted. I removed it and reconnected the wiring. I then removed the entire back panel and checked everything else visually. I never saw such a simple machine and everything was in fine shape. I vacuumed out the machine and replaced the back and top panels. I bought some new fuses and replaced them.
I figured since I had the dryer down I should clean it also. It was a bit more of a learning curve but I got it cleaned out and back together. I replaced the fuses and put it atop the washer, plugged it in and reconnected the dryer vent.
All that was on Friday. Today (Sunday) I have completed the fourth load and everything is A-okay.
I think the Asko is a fine machine.
Any updates about the drain fault you were getting?
I have a matched pair of LCD display Askos that are >10yrs old. They have had some servicing but only one recent one that I have paid for (drain motor replacement). We are moving and I am heading out tomorrow to order a new Asko pair for our new house. I LOVE them. Yes, I have cursed a hundred times cleaning coins from the trap but nothing cleans clothes as well. They are great and, considering their use (2-10 loads every day - veterinarians with lots of kids!!). No one who uses good front loaders would ever use anything else. Load size has never been a problem because I would rather wash smaller, color- and fabric matched loAds than one huge load (and besides I can cram the queen duvet in and it washes beautifully). Buy them if you are obsessive about laundry!
The drain fault resolved itself somehow, just disappeared! Weird...
I have a pair of Asko's I've had since Aug/1997. Within the first couple of years the motor went out on the washer (seems to be a common problem) but it was covered under warranty.
Probably around the 5 year mark I replaced the belt on the dryer.
December of 2006 the motor quit on the washer again. I did some reading and bought a set of brushes, replaced them myself (very simple to do) and it's been going strong since.
Over the last couple of years the dryer has been taking longer and longer to dry the clothes. I finally tore into it last week and cleaned out the blower housing. It was nearly closed off. It's back to drying like it did when new.
All of these things seem like normal maintenance to me and I am pleased with the set.
One thing that does bother me is I've repaired wires burnt in two in the top of the dryer on 4 different occasions in recent years. They are the wires to the fuse for the washer. It's only blown a fuse one time since I've had the set. I've never contacted Asko about this or mentioned it on this forum. Has anyone else experienced this?
Contact Asko regarding the fuse bypass fix on your dryer. It's a known issue, Asko sent a service person out to fix my dryer as well while it was under warranty.
I have an asko w620 washing machine. The 'key' button is no longer unlocking/opening the door. Does anyone have a solution for this? Would hope to not have to call in a repairman if I can help it. Thanks!
I am replacing washer and dryer, the Asko 6903F1 washer and the T793F1 were recommended. does anyone have any experience with these models?
I was reading in the latest consumer's report that a different Asko washer- WL6511 was terrible for vibration.
As my laundry will be on the top floor of a small building
I'd like to hear about the recommended model and Asko on
I don't know about the specific models you mention, I have the W6761/T761 pair. My unit has the quattro suspension and I NEVER have any vibration issues. If the unit tested by CS had the quattro suspension, then I would say something was either wrong with their unit or the way it was installed.
My unit cleans well, no issues there. It's been a workhorse for us, very satisfied with the performance and build quality. If I were buying again today I may opt for the large Miele because I could use a larger capacity machine and don't want to sacrifice on the engineering and build quality. Everything else out there, except the Miele and Asko, seem so cheaply made.
I have had this issue with my older asko 6441. I dont know if newer models have the possibily of this issue but its worth a try. where the water drains out the little "fan" pushes the water up the pipe. This pipe is large enough to allow a dime to be flipped up into it but the dime gets stuck in the pipe and flips back and forth sometimes allowing water to go through unrestricted and othertimes cutting off the flow. Try blowing back on the drain pipe and see if that brings one out, otherwise remove the bottom panel and take the hose off the top of the lint trap and visually make sure there isnt one in it. I have had it happen multiple times.
I pulled out the detergent drawer and found a bunch of mildew, the majority of which was more in the direction of the fabric softener. I also wondered about the "blue" plug which I read above was necessary and I also experience an amount of diluted fabric softener left after a complete cycle.
There was a lot of gunk to clean up underneath this drawer making me think that there is still something not completely processing.
Any one get the mildew? Suggestions? (I live in semi-arid California to boot..)
I had an ASKO washer & dryer (model: washer W660 Quattro 1600rpm; dryer ???). The reason I don't know the dryer model # is that it burned up (LITERALLY). But I digress . . .
My question is: How do I use my ASKO washer without having the companion dryer? If this seems like a stupid question (which perhaps it is), I should note that the washer plugged into the dryer as its power source. Is it alright to run a separate 220 line for the washer and then plug the washer into the wall?
I have purchased a different mfr. dryer and don't want to use it until I know for certain that I can use the ASKO washer with it. The "expert" at the showroom where I purchased the dryer said it would be no problem, but then again he didn't mention that I needed a 220 either.
Any help would be most appreciated!
Karen, The question of whether you can run another 220v line is really for your electrician. If you have enough "service"at your box, etc, you can run one. The washer doesn't care what it's plugged into, but make sure that the outlet also meets the minimum rating for amps as specified by Asko. Of course it will cost you. YOu can buy other dryers that have a 220v outlet for the washer: Bosch for one (check specific models of course). Can you return or exchange the dryer? Might be a bit cheaper than the electrician's bill.
I have an Asko T700 dryer and am trying to replace the drum roller. The directions say to remove the drum nut with a jerk and then the shaft. The drum nut is a round plastic dome. How do I remove it?