How to balance a front loader?

hoosierdocNovember 5, 2008

We have a Bosch 800 Nexxt series front load washer. We just moved into a new house and installed it on a pedestal. The thing shimmies like crazy on spin cycle. I've put a level on the top and have the bubble smack in the middle from all ways I can check level. What's the next step to getting this thing balanced out? The movers has the screw in supports in the drum when they moved it. I can't shake the machine, seems stable on the legs.

Desperately needing some laundry done without bringing down the walls...

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Have you put the level on the sides vertically and then corner to corner on the top???If it wan't on a pedestal prior, remember the pedestals will make it more prone to vibrate (true for all brands)

    Bookmark   November 5, 2008 at 8:10PM
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My friend has Fl wirlpool on pedestal and it would not stay in place. It was leveled and on cement floor. The machine was vibrating,slipping and moving around and the pedestal was vibrating and noisy so they got rid of the pedestals. No problem after.

    Bookmark   November 5, 2008 at 11:13PM
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My LG is on a pedestal in the basement on concrete with no movement.

    Bookmark   November 6, 2008 at 1:14AM
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The problem may be unequal weight on all four feet. Three feet may keep it level, but the fourth may not have the same psi on it.

Or the pedestal may have a defect that creates the same effect an uneven floor would do; again, causing unequal psi-loading on all four feet.

You can have the machines level, but still need to adjust the feet to extend, or retract, one, or more than one foot in order to do this. Some here do this during a spin in order to achieve the more secure footing. Ability to do this depends on whether you can easily access all four feet during a spin. These small adjustments could be rendered ineffective if the machine is subsequently moved off the precise points where the feet rested during the leveling process. (That's why you should always accurately mark the exact floor position before moving a machine. even for routine maintenance on an apparently flat floor.)

In my experience even adjusting the foot by a small an amount as the the thickness of, say a couple of playing cards, can make a noticeable change.



    Bookmark   November 6, 2008 at 1:43AM
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Well, I checked the level on the sides, and am thinking the machine isn't square. Each of the two sides has to be raised to make it level. Now how does that happen? We adjusted things all over the place and it seems stable to rock it, but it's clearly not level.

The washing machine legs are off, it's resting on the plastic spacer on top of the pedestal, which has legs. I'm going to call HH Gregg to get them down since they sold us both w/d and pedestal. Also, the dumb washer gets mold in the detergent/softener area which they've been unable to fix on two trips by the repair people. Where's my tub and clothesline?!

    Bookmark   November 6, 2008 at 9:14AM
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As Molly mentioned, beyond leveling the machine, it's also important that force or load on each foot is balanced evenly.

Here's an excellent "how-to" post by forum member Bruce that I saved from a few years ago:

It's not a matter of all four feet just "touching" the floor but rather all the weight of the washer "evenly" distributed >between all four legs<. this is not something you just eye or guess at. it takes time to tweek the leveling legs and get right. best have a load that vibrates spinning at adjust legs. throw bubble level away forget about once washer sitting relatively pleasing eye. below method i recommend smoothest operation from your machine:>Tweek the leveling legs with a load spinning until you get the smoothest operation. Bubble leveling is not nearly as critical as having the full weight of the machine "evenly" distributed between all four legs. Again, don't use a bubble level during the final leveling procedure. Start by tightening up the back two legs and their lock nuts first and then finish the tweeking process on the front two legs last. You don't want to be moving the machine out to tweek the rear legs so get them adjusted and lock nuts tight "first". Then position the washer in its final resting place before finishing up the adjustments on the front two legs.

Get down on the floor and examine each foot as the load is spinning. I like to lay down on the floor with my eyes level with the legs. Most likely you'll see one leg moving more than the others. Use a bright light to check this. The leveling leg that moves the most is not supporting enough weight. Thread that leg towards the floor or out from the washer a tad bit and make very small adjustments until you get the least movement and smoothest operation.

You may have to do this again in several months as the machine settles into the flooring material. Also try to thread the leveling legs in as close as possible to the chassis to start with.. only allowing enough space to fit an open end wrench to tighten up the lock nuts. The farther out the leveling legs are threaded, the more chance of vibration. Make sure the lock nuts are tight up against the chassis when finished. Remember, if the leveling legs are threaded out to far and the lock nuts left loose, more vibration will occur.

I'm willing to bet that if owners would follow this simple procedure there would be alot less vibration complaints. A little patience goes a long way so take your time and do it right!

Good Luck!


    Bookmark   November 24, 2008 at 1:02PM
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Last but not least, MAKE sure that the legs are not screwed out to the longest setting or your washer will shimmy a lot at the high speed spin out mode. When I am setting up a washer/new or old, I screw the legs as far up into the base, then go from there. The shorter the leg is out, the better the chance of having a balanced (no shimmy) washer. brenton.

    Bookmark   November 24, 2008 at 11:01PM
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