Need help with undercabinet lighting-confused

paulflyboyAugust 10, 2012

I am planning on installing undercabinet LED lighting. I have 3 different lighting "zones." I have one outlet in each zone that I plan to plug the lights into. My plan was to control those outlets with a dimmer switch (be able to dim all of the zones at the same time).

First off, is this possible? So far, I bought the utilitech pro light bar from Lowes:

http://www.lowes.com/pd_331391-1390-GU0312LD-BKSS-I_0__?productId=3335834

I bought that one (12") and some 24" and 18". Here is the dimmer switch that I bought: (Lutron Diva 150 Watt Single Pole/3-Way CFL/LED Dimmer - White)

http://www.homedepot.com/buy/electrical-home-automation-security-home-automation/lutron-diva-single-pole-3-way-dimmable-cfl-led-dimmer-white-119291.html#.UCW-p6Ms5bE

Each light has a dimmer knob on it, but I want to be able to control them all at one point. I have been reading on other treads about transformers, magnetic and electronic dimmers. I am thoroughly confused on what I need.

I just found out about environmentallights website and seems like they have some good things. I read where the Maxlites don't need a transformer. Would this keep me from having to put a transformer in each of my lighting zones?

Thanks in advance for any help you can provide!

Here is a link that might be useful: Led light bar

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David

The following link should answer a number of your questions

Here is a link that might be useful: LED UCL continuation

    Bookmark   August 11, 2012 at 11:02AM
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paulflyboy

Thanks! lots to learn and understand.

    Bookmark   August 11, 2012 at 8:01PM
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paulflyboy

Ok, so we are going with direct wire light bars. I have been reading a lot on the forums here about the Phillips eW Profile light bars and the Maxlite led light bars.

Any recommendations? The biggest difference that I can see so far is that the Phillips light bars need a wiring box that is big. I would need 3 of those. On the other hand, the Maxlite could be wired into the box where my outlets were.

Again, thanks for ya'lls help!

    Bookmark   August 12, 2012 at 4:06PM
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polie

OP, how big is the Philips wiring box? I'm thinking about getting the Philips UCL for my kitchen. Agree that there is a lot of information to absorb about UCL.

    Bookmark   August 12, 2012 at 10:49PM
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David

The box for the eW profile is the same height as the bar ~ 0.88 inch in height

    Bookmark   August 12, 2012 at 11:02PM
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paulflyboy

I stand corrected, it isn't as big as I thought. Somewhere I read that it was almost 12" long, but I went back and found more info:

It is .875" tall and 4.25" long and 2" wide.

http://www.goodmart.com/products/philips-ew-profile-powercore-switched-wiring-compartment-terminators-120-000065-04.htm

Page 7 of this has a diagram of it:

http://www.colorkinetics.com/support/datasheets/eW_Profile_Powercore_ProductGuide.pdf

The cheapest that I saw it was here for $17:

http://ledneonlight.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=11_60_64

David, did you mount this under your cabinet with the lights?

    Bookmark   August 12, 2012 at 11:28PM
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David

No. I went with the 3 pin low voltage LED bars from environmental lights as I wanted lights that were ~ 0.5" in height.

However, if I had to do things again, I'd go with the eW profile lights as the Philips LED bar solutions are pretty well thought out.

The uniLume is pretty interesting except for the price.

    Bookmark   August 13, 2012 at 10:15AM
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paulflyboy

Yea, I like the look of the Phillips eW profile lights. The price is over the budget, so now looking at going with the Maxlite.

    Bookmark   August 13, 2012 at 9:24PM
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EATREALFOOD

The power core wiring compartment is not visible from the front at all. I have no light rail, you can only see it if you are sitting down or looking at an angle. I'll post photos on a separate thread.

    Bookmark   August 19, 2012 at 10:22AM
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ccgardens

I'm just tailing onto this thread to ask about length of light bar v. cabinet widths. Based on what I've read and what the electrician has done so far (3 romex wires (connected to one switch) sticking out of drywall approx where cabinets will go), now I need to order the lights to install.

From right to left, where the countertop starts (see diagram) I have a 34" cabinet, range hood (which actually overhangs on both sides by 3"), then a 34", then a 45 degree angled corner (back sides 24"). So I'm wondering about the Philips (which comes in 9, 21 and 39" lengths). Is one 21" sufficient for the 34" cabinet on the right or should I fill the space with a 21 + 9? (Can I connect two closely together like this with one wire?) On the left of the stove, I could use a 39" and go into the corner under the cabinet and then probably add a 9" either at a 90 degree to the back run or follow the angle of the front of the cabinet.

Any comments and suggestions for improvement welcome.

Thanks!

    Bookmark   August 21, 2012 at 1:49PM
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David

Quite a number of your questions about the placement have been covered in the LED continuation thread.

90 degree to the back run to avoid a shadow. The bars can be staggered.

If you're using the eW Profile, you need to plan according to the dimensions of interconnects and bars selected.

    Bookmark   August 21, 2012 at 5:01PM
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