eW Profile UCL - Running Jumper Cables Behind Walls?

cicadacatAugust 9, 2013

Hello all,

Using the wealth of information and recommendations on this site, I've decided on the Phillips eW Profile Powercore under cabinet lighting for my kitchen remodel, which is quickly wrapping up. I've ordered all the light bars, connecting jumper cables, and junction boxes that I think I need and that were recommended to me by the product sales rep based on my cabinet dimensions.

My cabinets are not completely smooth all the way across the bottom behind the front lip. Between cabinets there is a barrier created by the cabinet walls meeting. I don't have a separate molding on the cabinet bottom that are often mounted to add additional space to cover lighting, etc. (Which is one reason I'm getting the eW!) It looks like a hole would, therefore, need to be drilled horizontally through the cabinet wall barrier to create a channel for the cable to be run through to the next light bar. I can then secure any slack under the front lip if needed.

My problem comes with what to do with the cabinet over the sink. It's quite a bit higher than the cabinets on either side. I don't want to drill holes through the floors of the side cabinets, run the cable up the insides and then through holes drilled through the cabinet walls and under the lip of the elevated sink cabinet. How would you recommend I make the connection between the light bars under each side cabinet and the bar under the much higher sink cabinet in the middle? Could the cord be run behind the wall, as my electrician was thinking? It doesn't seem like he's familiar with this lighting system, but hardwiring a single junction box and then just clicking cables together sounded a lot easier to me than hard wiring every light under every cabinet, as he initially proposed before I decided against using what seemed like subpar lighting from the local big box store. But maybe I'm being naive.

I know there are a lot of experts and experienced folks here and I'd be grateful for any information you could provide this complete novice! I'd like to do this correctly, but I just don't know what to tell him to do. Many thanks in advance!

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David

The jumper cable costs more than romex and you probably need a length longer than the longest jumper wire.

    Bookmark   August 9, 2013 at 5:40PM
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cicadacat

Hi davidtay,

Thanks for your quick reply.

So are you recommending a junction box be hard wired to each of the three cabinets -- one for one side (a single end cabinet), one for the sink cabinet, and one for the cabinet on the other side which continues to the other cabinets? If it makes a difference, I plan on putting all the UCL on a single dimmer switch.

    Bookmark   August 9, 2013 at 6:23PM
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David

Yes. You can use the low profile junction box for the eW profile.

Each cabinet run should be in parallel.

    Bookmark   August 9, 2013 at 6:37PM
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David

The ordering spec sheet has been attached. Look for the permanent wiring compartment

Here is a link that might be useful: Ordering spec sheet

    Bookmark   August 9, 2013 at 11:12PM
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MSeth

Hi Davidtay,
I have similar situation as Cicadacat..have chosen Philips eW Undecabinet lighting. Have 4 sections of cabinet run
1. left side of the hood (33 inch upper cabinet)
2. Right side of the hood (33+15 inch upper cabinet)
3. Opposite parallel wall with 3 (18+30+18) upper cabinets..SEPARATE ISSUE: The center cabinet is different height (smaller) than the side 2 cabinets, how would jumper cables connect for the 3 cabinets? Do we need to run it inside/through the body of the cabinet to reach different heights?
4. Perpendicular wall with kitchen desk (non connecting to other 2 walls).

Reading through all your posts, this is what me and my spouse could figure out:
Run hard wired Romex behind wall in all areas, connecting to a 3 way switch at 2 entries of the kitchen. The Romex provides 4 connection points at above 4 areas for 4 junction boxes where we can have under cabinet lighting run for that particular section only.
So at each of the four sections we have 1 junction box, 1 jumper cable connecting junction box to the fixture (or fixtures joined by end-to-end connector or through jumper cable) and 1 terminator.

Is that correct configuration?

We also got confused reading your line above:
"Each cabinet run should be in parallel."

eW profile product guide says:
"eW Profile Powercore fixtures are installed in series. A single series can include fixtures totalling up to 50 ft (15.2 m) or 324 W, not including Leader Cables and Jumper Cables. Select a mix of fixture lengths to optimize the lighting of the areas you wish to illuminate, and use any combination of End-to-End Connectors and Jumper Cables to position fixtures exactly where you want them"

Getting confused on series vs. parallel! Please help!

    Bookmark   December 28, 2013 at 12:57AM
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David

If the lights form a contiguous section, they should be connected in series.

In many set ups however, the cabinet runs (& light bar runs) will be interrupted by a window/ opening, cooker hood, etc.

In such scenarios, it is appropriate to treat each cabinet run as separate runs that would be wired in parallel.

Rationale

If something should break, only one section would fail to light up. Another example would be multiple lights on a multi-way switch setup where only the burnt out lamp fails to light.

    Bookmark   December 28, 2013 at 11:36AM
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MSeth

Thanks Davidtay...
Can you please advise how I can handle the four sections of my kitchen?
1. left side of the hood (33 inch upper cabinet)
2. Right side of the hood (33+15 inch upper cabinet)
3. Opposite parallel wall with 3 (18+30+18) upper cabinets
4. Perpendicular wall with kitchen desk (non connecting to other 2 walls).

    Bookmark   December 29, 2013 at 2:08PM
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David

The kitchen desk could be on a separate circuit since there could be occasions where the space need not be lit up.

The rest could be split into 2 or 3 separate sections in parallel. If 2, that means the cabinets on both sides of the hood would form 1 section and the opposite wall another section.

If you use enOcean controllers, you could have a multiway circuit without having to pull the wiring for the secondary switch(es).

Your electrician should also have some input on what makes more sense.

    Bookmark   December 29, 2013 at 9:30PM
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