dimmer &transformer questions for led ucl

Sara_in_phillyAugust 8, 2011

My kitchen undercabinet LED light has a total power requirement of 36 W . I would like to divide it into 2 zones. One zone is about 9W and the other is about 26 W.

It doesn't seem to make sense to spend about $100 each for 2 build-in transformers, I would like to use 2 much less expensive plug-in adaptors, I would also like to use traditional looking wall plate dimmer switches.

Is this possible? Can I do something like this: powersource(tapped into receptacle for kitchen appliances such as refrigerator) --> wall plate dimmer switch -->dedicated receptacles for led -->plug-in adaptor --> LED strip.

1) Is there a type of wall plate dimmer switches that can work with a plug-in adaptor? Would Lutron/Leviton magnetic dimmers or other type work?

2) Does this arrangement meet code? The dedicated receptacle for led and plug-in adaptor can be put inside or above cabinet if that helps meeting the code.

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David

Sara,
Wall wart power supplies are not dimmable.

You might want to shop around for dimmable transformers which cost less.

    Bookmark   August 8, 2011 at 12:26PM
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Sara_in_philly

David, I just keep thinking somehow there is a way to get around it:-)

Do you know whether a wall wart adaptor powering LED UCL meet the code or not? ing

BTW, I have searched for dimmable transformer, they are all in the range of $80-100

    Bookmark   August 9, 2011 at 1:37PM
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David

Sara,

You need to check with your local authority, but I think it depends on how the lights are setup.

If you installed the environmental lights 3 pin lights, they have a stub dimming attachment you fit onto the end of a light bar. That way, you can run the lights off a wall wart and still be able to dim them. Nb - the dimming attachment is a small rheostat.

Your power draw is probably low enough for wall warts + rheostat dimmer.

Or you might consider
http://totaltransformers.com/dc-output-magnetic-20w-24v-led-driver.html

    Bookmark   August 9, 2011 at 7:57PM
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brickeyee

"BTW, I have searched for dimmable transformer, they are all in the range of $80-100 "

While they may call it a 'transformer" it is far more likely to be a small power supply.

Here is one that is less than $18.

Here is a link that might be useful: dimmable 'transfomer'

    Bookmark   August 10, 2011 at 3:07PM
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Sara_in_philly

David and brickeyee, thank you for the info. I will check them out.

    Bookmark   August 15, 2011 at 5:58PM
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cz9h3d

#1) I see the LED UCL DIY thread is full at 150 posts. Is there not a #2 thread? I wasn't able to find one :(

#2) I'm putting in a run of undercabinet lights - 32 watts under the cabinets, another 13.2 watts to light up two glass cabinets. The new mini dimmer switches that connect in series to the lights (i.e. the aluminum light bars from EV, Photonier, etc) that work with a non-dimming power supply seems like a very easy and inexpensive way to install, no? I do see they are rated for 40w per SuperBrightLEDs website.
-Does this suggest I should put my in-cabinet lights on a second power supply/circuit, in order to stay below 40w for the dimmer switch? I'm fine with all being on the same switch/dimmer.
-Can I just get a larger power supply (i.e. 100w from Photonier), split the power up into an undercabinet and in-cabinet run, and then use two mini dimmer switches? Guess I'm not sure if the 40w switch rating is for power in or power out/used....or both.

This has me reconsidering getting a dimming power supply instead, that will handle the entire run, and wiring in a wall switch......
To complicate things, I do have a second zone clear across the kitchen that will use one undercabinet 24" bar, and one in-cabinet 24" bar. This are definitely wants to use a single mini dimmer switch for both lights on a cheap power supply (i.e. reminds me of my laptop power cord). It's not really practical to run low voltage from my other power supply - well, I guess I could, but this area wants to be switched separately anyways.

    Bookmark   September 5, 2011 at 9:25PM
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David

You probably would be better off using a dimming power supply. The mini dimmer switches are rheostatic dimmers - the unused power is dissipated as heat.

If you want all the lights to dim together, a dimming power supply is needed.

If you choose thar route, you need to figure out the wire sizing(gauge) to each run as well.

    Bookmark   September 5, 2011 at 11:02PM
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