Fisher Paykel GWL11 diverter valve allways on - bad controller?
The problem started when we ran an empty cleaning cycle. Set to hot and told to fill the tank full. It ran for quite some time, but never finished the cycle as it was stuck on the beginning of the rinse cycle and there was quite a bit of water on the floor. Instead of draining, the diverter was having the pump recirculate. After looking on here and several other internet sites I figured it must be lint stuck in the diverter valve. Took out the diverter valve and it was clean, nothing stuck in there. But I did notice it was diverting to the drain which it was not when I unplugged the washer the night before. I plugged the washer back in, the valve slowly moved to the recirculate position (didn't press any other buttons) Unplugged the machine and it moved back to the drain position. I removed the diverter and found that there is 167Volts applied to the diverter connection whenever the machine is plugged in. Diverter measured 2.7K ohms when cold, less when warm.
Based on this information and a post here:
I think my diverter is working just fine and I have a bad controller board. Any other thoughts of what this could be, or anything else to test? I think my next step may be to follow the instructable here
to see if I can fix it myself. If not buy a new controller board.
Any advice or ideas would be greatly appreciated