Fisher & Paykel Laundry washer

gazakatOctober 17, 2010

I have a F&P washer top loading Smart drive washer fitted with O51 motor control board. Problem is the Hot water supply to washer is always restricted. I am on high pressure mains (hot and cold) This is what I've done already.

1; checked supply pipes and filters to washer -- all good

2; put new hot valve and solenoid in machine - no change

3; swapped hot valve and solenoid with cold water ones- no change

4; swapped over red wires and green wires (hot>cold) -no change

5; put in new O51 circuit board. still no change

6; put in new plastic 'box' that hot / cold taps sit in. - no change

I found some water flows out hot tap connection from cold side when the hot connection is disconnected, meaning the pressure from cold is passing through hot valve. (all valves I've used)

Could it be that the Cold side pressure is stopping the hot side valve seat from opening thus causing my problem. ?? I will do test and throttle cold side.

thanks for help.

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dadoes

SmartDrive covers a range of U.S. models. What specific model number is your machine?

What evidence are you seeing that the hot valve is restricted?

The hot and cold valves are not identical and are designed to produce slightly different flow rates at full-open. They should not be physically or electrically swapped. The control board modulates the valves for controlling the flow rates to mix the target water temperature.

    Bookmark   October 17, 2010 at 11:13PM
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asolo

"I am on high pressure mains (hot and cold)"

What does this mean? What is your household pressure in psi?

    Bookmark   October 17, 2010 at 11:56PM
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gazakat

The H/C pressure would be in the region of 60 psi.
High pressure mains means in NZ that hot water and cold are unregulated, ie I have a pressursised gas fired hot water cylinder, whereby cold water enters and leaves at same pressure. Some older houses in NZ have a gravity feed system from roof for hot water, feed via ball cock.(and vented through roof via riser pipe) Thus the head is only a few feet and causes problems with differential across H/C. the evidence I see of low flow is just that, I can open top door and view it, just a trickle. (door micro switch is frigged)
I will obtain model number tonight. NZ made.

    Bookmark   October 18, 2010 at 8:27PM
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dadoes

NZ. Your GardenWeb profile says "I live in: United States." :-)

The water valves should be able to handle up to 150psi. Too-low pressure tends to be a problem moreso than high pressure. A large difference between cold and hot mains pressure could cause a problem, but you indicate that isn't the case. If you disconnect the hoses from the machine and run them at full-stream into a bucket, the flow-rates are equal?

Have you run the machine's valves directly in Diagnostic Mode to check the flow-rates?

    Bookmark   October 18, 2010 at 8:58PM
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gazakat

You are correct. I live both in CO and NZ. (am married to a US citizen) Yep flow rates into bucket about the same. Could you advise how to do the Diagnostic Mode. For your info, Fisher & Paykel is a NZ company and they have bought Maytag in USA and now do F & P assemblies there too. For some history google F & P history. cheers

    Bookmark   October 18, 2010 at 11:01PM
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dadoes

Yes, I know about Fisher & Paykel. I own 5 F&P appliances. :-)

Whirlpool, not F&P, bought the Maytag company.

Depending on which model you have, Diagnostic access may be slightly different. But, try this:

- With machine power off, press and hold Wash Temp Down, then press Power at the same time. Release both buttons when the beep sounds.

- Press Wash Temp Up to turn the hot water valve on/off.

- Press Wash Temp Down to turn the cold water valve on/off.

- Press Power to exit Diagnostics.

    Bookmark   October 19, 2010 at 12:31AM
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